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SP2 clutch hub / main seal replacement

vitjakes

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 7, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Czech Republic
Greetings, fellow riders,

I've finally come around to splitting my SP2 with a rather dangerous on/off clutch. I expected to see deep notches in the clutch hub / plates assembly, and I wasn't far off. Except that the notches are only in the hub. The plates are looking just fine. Now, as I don't like replacing parts that don't necessarilly need it (call me a cheapskate), am I asking for trouble if I were to only replace the hub by a Stein-Dinse item? It's the newer deep spline version. I also noticed traces of oil coming from the engine side, so I removed the flywheel to inspect the main seal. It seems to have been deliberately hammered in but I didn't smear any oil off it. Rather than that, the oil seems to be seeping from underneath the crank bearing plate and its fastening bolts. But I might be wrong, maybe it's just being thrown around. Anyway, is there a general consensus on how to approach this? I am uploading a few photos (including a closer look at the clutch plates' thickness - 8.05 mm). Naturally, I am replacing all the seals, o-rings and the return spring in the tranny while I'm in there.

Thank you in advance for your deeply valued opinions.
 

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I've never seen a deep spline hub worn like that. Must not have been properly heat treated. Since it is apart I would recommend updating everything you can. Clutch plates, o-rings, seals, and since you have the gearbox apart the shift return spring. The labor to get there makes it worth doing all you can. If you don't have metal cage input and output bearings in the gearbox, I'd make the update too. I've seen the plastic cage bearings fail.
 
I've never seen a deep spline hub worn like that. Must not have been properly heat treated. Since it is apart I would recommend updating everything you can.

Me either John! Wow. Unusual.

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vitjakes

A wise mechanic taught me a long time ago, "One can be cheap, and one can be foolish, but one should never mix cheap and foolish because the result is a bitter brew known as UTTER STUPIDITY."

You have everything laid out in front of you already and that is 90% of the labor and effort.

Replace everything like John suggests and then rest easy in that you have probably done this for the last time, for your entire ownership of this motorcycle.

I always ask myself, "If this problem came back, would I have traded the $ to not have this new problem to repair? I always answer YES, so I just fix it while I am there.I hate redoing previous work.
 
Me either John! Wow. Unusual.

------------------------------------------------
vitjakes

A wise mechanic taught me a long time ago, "One can be cheap, and one can be foolish, but one should never mix cheap and foolish because the result is a bitter brew known as UTTER STUPIDITY."

You have everything laid out in front of you already and that is 90% of the labor and effort.

Replace everything like John suggests and then rest easy in that you have probably done this for the last time, for your entire ownership of this motorcycle.

I always ask myself, "If this problem came back, would I have traded the $ to not have this new problem to repair? I always answer YES, so I just fix it while I am there.I hate redoing previous work.
I perfectly understand what you're saying, my approach is usually the same. But looking at these SD plates, they look almost brand new to me. No damage on the splines, nice and healthy thickness to them, no traces of oil... For me, it'd be heresy to just throw them away. I am positive it will work just fine with the new SD hub. If I had but one doubt, I'd replace the whole set. But then again, if I'm mistaken, I'm the one who's going to pay for it.
 
I somewhat understand your reluctance on the clutch plates. At one time Guzzi provided wear limits for those plates. I just checked my service manuals and no coverage of minimum thickness. How many miles on those plates? if over 50,000 Km it would be wise to replace them. Also check the clutch springs. From the service manual:

Springs compressed to 20mm must give a load of 21 to 21.5 Kg

Springs compressed to 17mm must give a load of 28.7 to 29.7 Kg
 
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