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2008 1200 Sport Fork Seal Replacement

Nick Greear

08 1200 Sport
Joined
May 9, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Cedaredge, CO
Am replacing fork seals for first time on '08 1200 Sport. The MG manual does not show the fork spring under the top cap. Although I went ahead and ordered a spring compressor in order to remove that top cap, is it appropriate (and reasonable) to simply remove the bottom bolt (above the axle hole) and remove the whole innards in one full swoop? Seems I have to remove that bottom bolt anyway to remove the old seals. Thank you.
DSCF5145
As a newbie to forums, does the Wildguzzi forum still work? I tried sending this question to that one first and did not know who to address it to so my message did not get through. I'm getting too old to understand these forums.
 
In my opinion there is too much BS on Wildguzzi. You are better off here. Yes you can remove the bottom Allen head screw to disassemble the forks. Be advised, the fork seals go on after the tube is inserted into the slider. The proper drifting tool is needed. If you put the seal in first, the bushings will cut the seal. I use the triple clamp to hold the tube when removing and installing the top nut. I use a socket with extension to press the nut down, then turn by hand to not cross thread.
 
Thanks John. I did buy a 45mm bullet and variable sized seal installer. So with this method I don't have to remove the spring-right? Your advice above implies the spring is removed (slide the seals "down the tube). Just remove the bottom bolt, take everything out and clean it, put the tube (with springs) back in with seals and drive the seal and snap ring home? Then the bottom bolt.
I did use the triple clamp to loosen the cap, but notice it has no spring pressure when attached to the innards. I'm deleting Wildguzzi from my favorites. Thanks.
 
A simple plastic drain pipe of the correct diameter does the job for me.

For EVs I have a piece of custom thick wall grey plastic pipe specially machined to drive the seal with one end, and the dust cover with the other. I firmly believe in using what is available!!
 
Thanks John. I did buy a 45mm bullet and variable sized seal installer. So with this method I don't have to remove the spring-right? Your advice above implies the spring is removed (slide the seals "down the tube). Just remove the bottom bolt, take everything out and clean it, put the tube (with springs) back in with seals and drive the seal and snap ring home? Then the bottom bolt.
I did use the triple clamp to loosen the cap, but notice it has no spring pressure when attached to the innards. I'm deleting Wildguzzi from my favorites. Thanks.

This sounds exactly like how I did things. No need to try to get the spring apart from the assembly unless you're getting new springs.
I got to do the job twice because I installed the seals upside down the first time, not my best day.
 
Another quest for advice. I went ahead and ordered a Traxxion fork spring compressor. I found that all the examples of spring compression tools show a plastic collar "over" the top of the fork spring which the compression tool tapered bolts fit into. Without the collar I am unable to compress the spring as the ends of the bolts just slide around in the spring. Plus, the compression is so strong I don't have the strength to "pull" the spring down far enough for my helper to get the locking bar in place. How in the world does one get the spring out? Thanks in advance. ng

DSCF5145 Tool
 
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