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B11/Norge Startus Interruptus-the MPH Solution

Thank you for the replies.
My query was centred around the possibility that the Stelvio's start relay was in a totally different location (beneath and forward of the tank) as against other models being awesomely located under the seat. I know which one I'd prefer to access.
 
Thank you for the replies.
My query was centred around the possibility that the Stelvio's start relay was in a totally different location (beneath and forward of the tank) as against other models being awesomely located under the seat. I know which one I'd prefer to access.

The Stelvio start relay is in a different position. You will need to look at the service manual for your bike. If you tell us which bike you are asking about first, we can be of more help.
 
Why is it so damn hard for some of you people to read the service manual and find the answer yourself?

I'm sorry but the laziness of some people who pop in to ask a question that they could easily find the answer themselves with the slightest of personal effort, is reaching a new all time low...

Todd has gone to great lengths to provide most of the manuals in the downloads section.

Donate a few bucks to the site and gain access to them. Then read them yourself before you post your question. You will more than likely find the answer yourself.
 
Wow, someone has their cranky pants on!

But no matter, I'll try to help anyway. We Australians are like that.

For Stelvio owners (and maybe others), the relay is indeed in a different spot to under the seat.

Before you do anything, grab some 14g electrical wire (coloured red is good), fit an inline 20amp fuse, and on one end fit a circle connector that will fit your battery post. (Yes, that is how we spell 'coloured' here).

Cut the wire so it is a length of between 800-900mm. At the other end (to the circle connector) fit a quick splice connector. If that terminology doesn't make sense, it's a plastic connector with room for two wires to run parallel. Once in place you use pliers on a metal lug that drives through both wires, connecting the circuit. No cutting of flex is required. Finally, there is a flap of plastic that springs the join closed. I used a bit of electrical tape around the whole thing for added security.

Now, the fun part. Take off the seats and the negative battery terminal. Take off the right side panel (with Stelvio NXT label). There are five connectors, four screw and one nut. Don't drop the retaining nuts/washers.

Remove the small panel on the side next to the fuse box and two screws for the tank shroud. You don't need to take the whole shroud off, just manoeuvre it out of the way.

Thread your new red wire from the positive terminal (you haven't connected it yet, surely?)around the rear of the tank, and burrow behind the frame and position the wire appropriately until you can get it to the front area where the right fork rises up.

The relays are rubber mounted and is the front of the two we are interested in. Lifting the relay up will slide it from the mount.

Remove the connector and you will see numbers written on the relay. Terminal 30 is ground zero. Work out which wire suits (it's yellow and has a stripe). The colour doesn't really matter, just make sure it is the one that goes to terminal 30.

Strip back some of the black electrical tape so you get more wire. Put it in the back of your new fancy clip, position the red wire parallel, and use your pliers to consummate the union. Close the terminal and wrap with electrical tape. Refit the relay onto the mount.

Use some cable ties to neaten the installation. Connect to positive terminal.

Connect negative wire to terminal.

Test machine.

Refit panels. Good to go.

Reset clock.

If you already have made your wire, the job should take about 1- 2 hours, depending on how many washers you drop and have to find.

I did this fix on my 2011 Stelvio. Hope this info helps our community.

Dave
 
I hear you.
However many owners don't feel comfortable cutting/soldering their looms.
As this bridge is only in use during the actual start process, and the existing wiring remains in situ.
Anyway, it's a map to follow for those who choose that path.
Dave
 
John is 100% correct.

Words to the wise...

The function of the coating over the wire within a loom, is there to protect the wire from moisture and hence, oxidation. Plain and simple. Quick splice connectors have all of the precision of a chainsaw. They crudely pierce the coating, leaving a path for moisture to enter and corrosion will begin virtually immediately and continue on until the point of failure.

When you cut, splice, solder, and shrink wrap, you replace the protective coating over the wire and if you use high quality shrink splices, they have a protective gel inside of them which distributes all around the connection to further protect it.
 
Does anyone know why manual calls for 12v 18amp battery, but one that came with bike and all replacements I found are all 14amp? Is there an 18amp replacement out there?
 
Amp hr ratings mean next to nothing on a dynamic recharging setup.

This old outdated and inaccurate way of expressing battery capacity, is more appropriate on say, an electric wheelchair, which goes from full charge to nearly full discharge, every day.
 
Does anyone know why manual calls for 12v 18amp battery, but one that came with bike and all replacements I found are all 14amp? Is there an 18amp replacement out there?

The Yuasa YTX2-CH-BS is listed as 18 amp hour. The higher amp hour battery will deliver more cold cranking amps (CCA). The CCA rating for the stock battery is 270. This battery in the store is excellent and the CCA rating is 300. I put one in my 1100 Breva. https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gtm-lithium-battery-14l
 
Not entirely accurate.

There is no way to convert CCA to AH directly because there is no correlation between them.

Hence, the SI system used by every other industrialized nation on the planet.

Again, amp hr is not an accurate nor logical reference of a battery used in a dynamic recharging setup.
 
just installed. it's very easy.
1.remove seat. remove trim plastic next to tank on rear brake lever side
2. their are 2 relays near tank rubber rigid /mounted.
3. locate the one in picture
4. unplug it, try to start bike. no start, you have the correct one(plus single yellow, single orange wire)plug in no start.
you can't plug it the wrong way because the plug has one way only design.
5. plug in the both connectors.
6. connect red wire to positive battery terminal
7. start bike. if it starts, your a wizard and should congratulate yourself.
8. mount relays in holder, tuck wires out of the way
9. reinstall trim plastic
10. reinstall seat
 

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just installed. it's very easy.
1.remove seat. remove trim plastic next to tank on rear brake lever side
2. their are 2 relays near tank rubber rigid /mounted.
3. locate the one in picture
4. unplug it, try to start bike. no start, you have the correct one(plus single yellow, single orange wire)plug in no start.
you can't plug it the wrong way because the plug has one way only design.
5. plug in the both connectors.
6. connect red wire to positive battery terminal
7. start bike. if it starts, your a wizard and should congratulate yourself.
8. mount relays in holder, tuck wires out of the way
9. reinstall trim plastic
10. reinstall seat
Thanks, I just ordered one... heading home tomorrow from a wedding, looking forward to giving it a go.
 
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