HI, new to this forum and new to Moto Guzzi and totally loving my new V7 III Special. I have 570 miles in the first few weeks and have not gone over 4,500 rpm or partial throttle. The right side header is going quite dark brown and now blue and purple. I called the dealership and they say that sometimes one side discolors more than the other. What do I need to check? I will do the valve adjust at 900 miles or should I do it now? Thanks for any help. Fantastic bike! I don't know if it is relevant but the air temp here has been around 34 to 40 F, and I let the bike warm up for 5 to 7 minutes before starting out. Thanks for any help.
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One Exhaust Header discoloring badly
- Thread starter Scott Burghart
- Start date
Hippo-Drones
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Am not saying it will help, but I would generally avoid letting the bike warm up when parked, better to just ride it and let it warm naturally.
As a thought, with the bike on it's sidestand, the oil will be favouring the left side of the bike so the right cylinder will have slightly less lubrication and thus get hotter.
As a thought, with the bike on it's sidestand, the oil will be favouring the left side of the bike so the right cylinder will have slightly less lubrication and thus get hotter.
Welcome to the World of Guzzi.
I only let mine warm up enough to get my helmet and gloves on, (maybe a minute )then drive the first few miles/km *gently* - which is driving out of the neighborhood in a civilized manner, then wait at a traffic light, so it has time to come up to temp without being abused.
It’s not like I’m going racing the moment I start it up...
Oy ! Kudos to you for still riding in those temps.
I guess if I was to wear the snowmobiling gear I used to have I could be out there, but I don’t know how the mukluks would be for gear changes ?
I only let mine warm up enough to get my helmet and gloves on, (maybe a minute )then drive the first few miles/km *gently* - which is driving out of the neighborhood in a civilized manner, then wait at a traffic light, so it has time to come up to temp without being abused.
It’s not like I’m going racing the moment I start it up...
Oy ! Kudos to you for still riding in those temps.
I guess if I was to wear the snowmobiling gear I used to have I could be out there, but I don’t know how the mukluks would be for gear changes ?
Hi Scott, congrats on your new bike.
Never had anything this modern myself but have had uneven discoloration on headers of older models, can't remember any cause other than large difference in temperature, badly out of balance carbs on my bikes, poss throttles on yours.
Look on fleabay for,
Non contact LCD laser Infrared digital thermometer gun pyrometer.
Should find loads of similar devices, prices start at less than a tenner, no need to spend more, handheld,point at chosen spot on engine, rocker cover I find best, read temperatures on both cylinders, minute or two after start up, after short ride and after longer ride, any temp discrepancy indicates imbalance, adjust accordingly, the hotter cylinder is working harder so needs backing off, or the cooler cylinder needs opening up slightly whichever is consistent with maintaining nice tickover speed,
I'm assuming that throttle bodies can be adjusted to a nice balance like carbs.
When taking temp of each cylinder, be SURE to point the gun at exactly the same spot on each rocker cover. (Red laser spot shows where you're pointing, no guesswork involved.)
A squirt of matt black on polished covers gives much better reading and can be wiped off after.
This method enables close monitoring of way the cylinders warm up starting from cold, and when they become too hot to touch.
Hope this helps.
Never had anything this modern myself but have had uneven discoloration on headers of older models, can't remember any cause other than large difference in temperature, badly out of balance carbs on my bikes, poss throttles on yours.
Look on fleabay for,
Non contact LCD laser Infrared digital thermometer gun pyrometer.
Should find loads of similar devices, prices start at less than a tenner, no need to spend more, handheld,point at chosen spot on engine, rocker cover I find best, read temperatures on both cylinders, minute or two after start up, after short ride and after longer ride, any temp discrepancy indicates imbalance, adjust accordingly, the hotter cylinder is working harder so needs backing off, or the cooler cylinder needs opening up slightly whichever is consistent with maintaining nice tickover speed,
I'm assuming that throttle bodies can be adjusted to a nice balance like carbs.
When taking temp of each cylinder, be SURE to point the gun at exactly the same spot on each rocker cover. (Red laser spot shows where you're pointing, no guesswork involved.)
A squirt of matt black on polished covers gives much better reading and can be wiped off after.
This method enables close monitoring of way the cylinders warm up starting from cold, and when they become too hot to touch.
Hope this helps.
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Ha Ha, I wear the Hotwired electric gloves my wife got me, and the Hotwired heated jacket that I got me! And I wear a Warm R Freeze out blaclava and same brand of long insulated layer........blocks the wind. AND I wear raingear over all the other stuff to black ALL of the wind. I am good for at least an hour at temps in the low 30s. Trying extra hard to get to that first oil change and valve adjustment so I can begin to ride to perhaps 6,000 rpm........as you all know, it just starts to get really sweet at around 4,000 and right now that is when I shift to to the next gear! The really good stuff is still waiting for me!
It being a V7III it’s a single throttle body just in front of the air box, but there are injectors for each side.
Good idea on the heat gun !
I would also take it back to the dealer and get them to check the injectors to ensure one is not FUBAR.
( although im not sure how a shop would test them ?)
Does anyone know if the Chrome header are double walled like the black ones on the Stones ?
I imagine if they were that would mean that the one side is getting WAY hotter than the other !
Good idea on the heat gun !
I would also take it back to the dealer and get them to check the injectors to ensure one is not FUBAR.
( although im not sure how a shop would test them ?)
Does anyone know if the Chrome header are double walled like the black ones on the Stones ?
I imagine if they were that would mean that the one side is getting WAY hotter than the other !
Ahhh, single throttle body, never thought of that, gotta be something else then, maybe injector, how about checking all connections of inlet tracts, (air leak causing weaker/hotter running on 'blueing' cylinder, are exhaust headers bolted up properly.
Generally I would agree with dead eye, dont accept the dealers, ' oh some of them do that sir' sounds dodgy to me, didn't it used to be, 'oh, they all do that sir'.
Might not do any harm to just check the valve clearances, you never know,
The dealers mechanic might be a one eyed chimp on minimum wage.
(or is that way too uncharitable.)
Generally I would agree with dead eye, dont accept the dealers, ' oh some of them do that sir' sounds dodgy to me, didn't it used to be, 'oh, they all do that sir'.
Might not do any harm to just check the valve clearances, you never know,
The dealers mechanic might be a one eyed chimp on minimum wage.
(or is that way too uncharitable.)
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Good idea on the temp check. My engineer son has such a device and will have him bring it tonight. That side MUST be running more lean and there has to be a reason for that. But the temp will confirm or deny that. I will also check the flange bolts.....easy to do.
Thanks for help!
Thanks for help!
At the root could likely be valve lash issue, or a partially clogged injector. The headers on the Mk III are double wall, so if you're seeing heat coloration there, that's a serious issue to resolve ASAP.
Those are the left and right header at 570 miles. Am I exaggerating or is this abnormal?
Vagrant
GT Reference
If you are doing the 900 yourself just do the valves now for your peace of mind. check the gap on the plugs and the exhaust nuts. honestly, I think that looks normal.
Not as bad as I imagined, but more than I would be prepared to put up with, cos' the discoloration will become much worse over time, eventually that pipe will become burnt black, if something else doesn't fail first, bearing in mind that so far you've done less than 600 miles, picture the damage at 6000,of course if you're bike is due back at the dealers for its first service, and if in fact they are on the ball, clued up and s**t hot, they may sort it out spot on first go. for your own peace of mind, monitor the temperatures with your lads non contact thermometer, being ESPECIALLY carefull to take the temp from EXACTLY the same spot on both sides, multiple times, repeat repeat and repeat again, with practice you will become confident of your conclusions, I'm pretty certain you will be seeing a significant discrepancy.
HOWEVER, the problem may not be with the right cylinder, if the left cylinder is not pulling as hard as the right cyl, the right pot may be getting hotter by virtue of the fact it's doing more than its proper share of the work, an extra complication to chuck into the mix.
Aren't I the cheerful one.
Could the partially clogged/faulty injector as mentioned above, by the guy who knows more than all the rest of us put together, be the left hand one.
If you ride the bike, fully warmed up, at as low revs as possible, in the highest gear possible condusive with smooth, though not quick, acceleration, does the engine misbehave, ( miss, cough, backfire, stall,) in any way ? When decelerating from higher revs with the throttle shut off, (on the'overrun') does the bike backfire or 'pop pop pop', or make any odd noises from the exhausts? Can you ride around, up and down through the gears using only whispers of throttle, or is it tricky/difficult to do because of odd symptoms, ( Hard riding tells us 'nowt',)
HOWEVER, the problem may not be with the right cylinder, if the left cylinder is not pulling as hard as the right cyl, the right pot may be getting hotter by virtue of the fact it's doing more than its proper share of the work, an extra complication to chuck into the mix.
Aren't I the cheerful one.
Could the partially clogged/faulty injector as mentioned above, by the guy who knows more than all the rest of us put together, be the left hand one.
If you ride the bike, fully warmed up, at as low revs as possible, in the highest gear possible condusive with smooth, though not quick, acceleration, does the engine misbehave, ( miss, cough, backfire, stall,) in any way ? When decelerating from higher revs with the throttle shut off, (on the'overrun') does the bike backfire or 'pop pop pop', or make any odd noises from the exhausts? Can you ride around, up and down through the gears using only whispers of throttle, or is it tricky/difficult to do because of odd symptoms, ( Hard riding tells us 'nowt',)
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All right, I fibbed, I'm still here, but this is my very last word on this subject,(for now.)
As it is now,that discoloration will polish out without too much difficulty.
Burn it black and it won't.
All right, all right, - - - - - I'm going.
As it is now,that discoloration will polish out without too much difficulty.
Burn it black and it won't.
All right, all right, - - - - - I'm going.
Something definitely wrong, heading toward serious damage..... Should not get discolouring with double wall header - dealer should know that! My 2017 V7 III has not a hint of discolouring after 12,000 km in temps up to 30 - 40 degC here in Aus. What are the plugs looking like?
Hope you get it sorted soon!