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One Exhaust Header discoloring badly

So, I now have 605 miles. Should I continue to ride it or should I do the valve adjust now? Or do you advise that I get it to a dealer? The one I purchased from is an hour and 45 min away but I have another one approx 1 hour north. I have a group ride planned for tomorrow but I can take my V Strom instead. Thanks
 
It won't hurt to do the valve adjustment now. Just have new valve cover gaskets handy in case they need to be replaced. In my opinion if you don't get a color change in the pipes you are running too rich. All of my bikes have purple headers.
 
Something definitely wrong, heading toward serious damage..... Should not get discolouring with double wall header - dealer should know that! My 2017 V7 III has not a hint of discolouring after 12,000 km in temps up to 30 - 40 degC here in Aus. What are the plugs looking like?
Hope you get it sorted soon!

What do you do at start up, wait for a while , or ride off directly ?
 
What do you do at start up, wait for a while , or ride off directly ?
The dealer Euro bike guy, who was extremely knowledgeable and helpful, told me to let it warm up for 5 minutes or so, till the heads are at least getting warm. So, I let it warm while I am gearing up. As reminder, all of the rides have been at around 35 to 39 F temps, if that is relevant. And there are no popping sounds or indications of lean running, except the coloration that is happening too fast for my book, and only on the one pipe. I kind of feel a bit of a flat spot coming off low revs, where the throttle response is not so smooth, but never having ridden a Guzzi maybe this is normal. I have a Power Commander and auto tuner on my Enfield, and that one is tuned spot on, and the V Strom is typically Japanese smooth, so maybe I am spoiled. But this one is new so maybe after the valve adjust it will be better as well. I will check the temps today, at various spots and times as it warms up. I need to order the center stand, figured on Hepco and Becker, to make the valve adjust easy.....rotate the wheel til TDC, etc. Or I can make a support for the frame and jack it. I will check the two plugs as well. How often do the valve cover gaskets need replacement? Is this a must have or can I wing it the first time? Thanks all!
 
OK...What is the plug gap really supposed to be? I have read several posts about the manual being wrong and that a wider gap creates a healthier spark? What brand and model of spark plug do you guys like to use.........or is that too big a can of worms? I can do the valve adjust and oil change myself, of course, but do I need to take it to the dealer for the first service to satisfy the warranty requirements? I do have a general services bike repair shop just 4 miles away.......all my BMW owning friends take their bikes to him. But I am guessing MG wants it done by an MG dealer. Suggestions?
 
In a hurry here, so apologies for "errors and omissions."

First, you do NOT -- in the USA, anyway, by law -- need to take to dealer for first or any other service. Obviously, any self- or non-Guzzi shop woerk needs to be documented. I take pix. Never been an issue.

Second, I over-worry about everything, and almost always find out I should "just ride it." That said, markedly different coloration of double-walled pipes is, at best, odd. There is something amiss beyond the usual variances.

Third, have you seen Todd's video on y/t that talks anyone through an oil change and valve adjustment? I recommend that you do. See

Fourth, WRT dealer "first service" co$t$ and competence, there are, as I recall, several threads here on that. They are sobering on what should be done, what often isn't, and the range of costs, with most absurd for work required.

Fifth, I am near astounded that a dealer would recommend that you warm up a Guzzi for five minutes before riding at any but subfreezing temps, and then who in their right mind would be riding anyway? Don't answer that; I still have frostbite issues. ;) But 5 minutes? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!

Must go to other tasks.

Merry Eighth Day of Christmas & Happy New Year!

Bill
 
No, you don't need to go to a dealer in the US. Just keep receipts and take pics for documentation.
This isn't rocket science, it's model A- T simple. (just for you John, and happy new year)
No offense but the dealer is twice as likely to do several things wrong because of misinformation from the factory and so many changes in the V7 series.

On the 2017 and newer V7III either the sticker on the tank or the Manuel was wrong for the valves. They get set cold at 4 & 6 thousands at TDC on the intake stroke. The heads do not get retorqued on the 2017. Again no offense to you but if you aren't positive about what that is stop here and get help or take it to the dealer.
The plugs can get reused. JMHO, I replaced mine with the stock ones at 12000. Write the part # in your book and you can order some in a year or two. They are set at 36 thousands. the book is right on this. Look it up. page 227
Might as well change the engine oil and filter and the six speeds fluid and the rear-drive at the same time or somewhere in the next 300-500 miles. Do this hot. This is a PRIME place for dealers to again mess up. the 2017 is different from the old units. There is a nylon screen stuck up inside the 6 speeds drain hole. pull it out for quicker draining and to make sure it's clean. Don't be surprised to find a string of silicone hanging off it.
Now this is what the book tells you. Next is my opinion.

engine with filter 2000 CC of 10/60. Don't do it! start with 1.6 quarts get it warm/hot and check it with both tires on the ground upright and the dipstick screwed in. keep it just a bit above the add mark. 2000 is over 2 quarts and will overfill it.

six-speed 500 CC. (90# oil. I've dropped to 470-480 CC. It truly looks like the book is written for a first time, dry fill.

rear-drive 170 CC of 85/140 here I've dropped to 160 and use plain oil not synthetic. general consensus is the synthetic MIGHT, make the seals leak.

All this is to be found by searching here and if I messed up something someone will quickly correct me. Also, it wasn't the fault of alcohol because I am going to pour my first one now as this was exhausting. That's my excuse and it's good enough for me.
 
Hi Steve, Thanks for the call out. Actually these bikes are easier to work on than my Model T Ford!! A valve adjustment on a Model T is quite involved. You have to use three wrenches at the same time to set them, or if the old style solid lifter type grind the valve stem to increase clearance. Fortunately with a flat head engine and low valve spring pressure it isn't done very often.
 
I took this pic of my V7 III’s headers last night. 10K miles; OK, for the absolutists, 9996 miles. :giggle:

Virtually identical “discoloration,” and, FTM, almost none at all. I have ridden it "as intended," i.e., neither babied nor abused it.


i-CgKcvd4-L.jpg



Bear in mind that I have had “issues” with hot pipes on other Guzzis. Check out, e.g., the cherry-red glowing on my Stornello’s! Pic taken after shutdown following very short period of running at idle. :devil:


i-7q7kHkT-L.jpg



Yes, yikes. At least that was with both sides at same time. Root cause, BTW, was overfilled oil — I didn’t do that misdeed! — that went into the air box and “confused” the ECU’s sensors that reside in the TB.

The Stornello has single-walled headers; the the III double. The latter tend to stay “prettier” (for folks who care about that; I don’t). Had that cherry-red issue arisen on my III, it would have taken, I think, some time to be noticeable, thus concern about this in such short order on yours.

As others have noted, that side-to-side difference in yours is unlikely a TB issue as both the Stornello (a II) and the blue III have a single TB. So — within some range — both pipes should get similar temps, at least WRT TB concerns. What others have suggested about injectors sounds right to me.

I remain very curious about what is giving you a quite visible and very different result on one side over the other.

Keep us posted, please as you unravel the mystery.

1921!

Bill

P.S. Cannot believe you ride in Middle Atlantic winters. Aside from my being a certifiable wuss in the cold, the various DOT's put some nasty stuff on the roads that'll work evil overnight on fasteners and more, and even if I am not cold, my tires sure are. Not being critical at all; I admire your grit.
 
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Hi and thank you for posting the pics. I haven't set up a photobucket account yet to post mine. But I did test the pipes for temp differences yesterday, at 2 min, 5min and 10 min, all at idle, and I checked the plugs today. The temp diff on the discolored pipe was roughly 10% at the valve cover, approx 1" over the exhaust flange, and 15% 1" onto the actual header, measured on top of the header. At the exhaust tip is was closer to 8%, measured 1/2" in from the exhaust exit. Interestingly, I held my had about 4" from the exhaust to see if I could feel a temp difference in the gases and I found something else. On the cooler running side I could feel strong and distinct power pulses as the exhaust gases exited. I could actually hear a clapping sound as it hit my palm. On the hot side the pulses were much less distinct, more of a power puff, with no clapping sound. Stupid question but are there CATS in each pipe? Could one be a bit clogged for some reason? I will pick up a new feeler gauge tomorrow.........the one I have is 51 years old and has too much corrosion on it. I last did valves on my Honda CT70H, or maybe my SL125, when I was 12 or 13 years old! I have an expert that does all my Royal Enfield work....a guru. He tells me, on the Guzzi, that he thinks my hot side header gasket is leaking.....why it is running hotter. But the nuts are tight. He advised that I loosed all of the other pipe mounts and make sure that the header is hitting squarely flat on the head. Once I do that, and do the valves, if it is still hot........back to the dealer to check the injectors? Thanks
 
Bear in mind that I have had “issues” with hot pipes on other Guzzis. Check out, e.g., the cherry-red glowing on my Stornello’s! Pic taken after shutdown following very short period of running at idle.
Hmmm. Bill, are you running a non-factory map on this one?
 
Bear in mind that I have had “issues” with hot pipes on other Guzzis. Check out, e.g., the cherry-red glowing on my Stornello’s! Pic taken after shutdown following very short period of running at idle.
Hmmm. Bill, are you running a non-factory map on this one?

You never replied on above ( or possibly ignored me ;) )... Since the ass-clowns that shat all over me and my work for a decade plus, I will state here... if you're running that imbecile's map, I HIGHLY recommend you resort back to stock before you damage your motor.
 
I am waiting for the dealer specialist mechanic (who rides a Guzzi) to get back to me.......out with Covid.......but I am going to do the valve adjustment this week and also will disconnect the pipes and make sure the headers are flat on the heads and then reassemble.
That should eliminate those variables. If it is an air leak from the injectors, or any type of injector issue, it goes back to the dealer. I may write to MG in Italy as well. Thanks for all the help so far.
 
And as for riding in the Midlantic region winters? I wear heated jacket and gloves and insulated boots. And if the roads are nasty I ride the V Strom, since I don't really care if it looks dirty or nasty. I try to ride at least once each winter month, even if its only 20 miles to go get a Starbucks.
 
FWIW-if the cylinders are running identically, the headers should look the same. So something is amiss. I've done 17k kms in 3 years and mine are like new, apart from bug-splat. I fitted a centre stand for many reasons and maybe this helps. And those pipes are double-walled for a good reason! My money is on a weak mixture on the right pot, but why that is needs to be investigated. Good luck. Do it asap before you burn $$$$! And I whole-heartedly agree with the "They all do that" comments. That's standard get-out clause for "We can't be*****d." Best way to warm up a bike in my opinion is start it, give it a minute or two (helmet and gloves SOP) and ride.
 
This topic is most related with my issue so l decided to write here to let new owners learn the solution for uneven header discoloration. My Guzzi V7 Special just has 300 km on it, while cleaning and polishing chrome parts , noticed left side header has slightly brownish color where right hand one looks as new. This is not normal, contacted Scott asking if he cured the problem since his last message, he told me the valve clerance of hot side was tight , and color returned normal after adjustment. I can't do valve adjustment myself, will have to go to nearest dealer which is 300 km away. Visiting dealer will help me finishing run in period,though. Just for the people suffering from the same problem.
 
I have a similar problem on my 2012 V7. Problem is that suddenly it's started misfiring on the left Cylinder now! (Riding on two/ then one cylinder ain't too gud fun). This happened suddenly, I was waiting at lights, they changed to green & she went onto one cylinder! Have swapped Lambda sensors, injectors & changed plugs (also reset valve adjustment) - no change. So does anyone know of a cheap diagnostic tool to check error codes? - I think the guzzi's have a different lead adapter. Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Cheers to all
 
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