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Spark Plug gaps, oil & filter change, valve adjust, air filter comments

kirkkw

Just got it firing!
GT Contributor
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
23
Location
Austin TX
Today I started my 12K service on my 1400. First time to work on the bike, so there is a lot to learn.

The new spark plugs had a gap in excess of my thickest feeler gauge .813. Guzzi's spec is .6-.7 so I gapped the plugs to .66. The old plugs had gaps greater than .813.
Spark


When setting the valves I had a heck of a time finding a timing mark on the flywheel. Is there a timing mark on the flywheel? When searching for TDC I rotated the engine till the intake valves opened then closed and slowly continued to rotate the engine until both the intake and exhaust valves were loose. At that point I took a picture of the flywheel through the inspection port.

Is the horizontal line on the right side of the inspection port (in the vertical center of the picture) a timing mark?

Timing

All intake valves were tight (not fully closed), but two of the exhaust were slightly loose. Also the lock nuts were excessively tight.

Based on my reading in the forum I was expecting a great deal of frustration and wasted time changing the air filter. However, it only took about 10-15 minutes once the battery was out of the way. In addition to removing the battery, the fuse blocks were lifted off the posts and set inside the battery box. The battery positive cable runs between the bottom of the battery box and the air box. Once I lifted that out of the way, I was able to quickly get the filter carrier/air box cover into place. The left side clip became dislodged but did not fall. I used large plyers to correctly orientate it again then closed the air box cover. After getting the air box cover in place I used large/long screwdrivers to press close the side clips. Finished.

There was a little oil inside the air box but nothing that wasn't expected. The filter itself had no oil on it and it was surprising clean at 12K miles. Going forward, I plan to change the filter at 18K or 24K miles.

Based on info I found on this forum, I put 3 liters of oil in the engine and started it to fill the oil filter and circulate the new oil. It only ran for 30-45 seconds or so. A few minutes later and the oil was well below the minimum oil level on the dipstick. I have the bike strapped upright on the lift. Also, I did not screw the dip stick in to get the lever mentioned above. I will check again in the morning but it seems I need more oil in the motor.

Now to truly display my ignorance, the maintenance schedule says to lube the clutch lever pin. How is that done and why wouldn't the brake lever pin need to be lubed?

Tomorrow is transmission oil change, rear drive oil change, engine oil top-up, clutch lever pin, side stand lube, and changing all hydraulic fluids.

Ken
 
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The air filter lid has two lugs that clip in at the bottom so I can't see that the bottom two clips are really necessary and they are the ones that are a pain in the arse. I left them off at the last filter change.
 
The air filter lid has two lugs that clip in at the bottom so I can't see that the bottom two clips are really necessary and they are the ones that are a pain in the arse. I left them off at the last filter change.

I spent 5 minutes on those - I had more trouble getting the bottom lugs in place. You can't see down there and once I figured out the battery cable was in the way it became much easier.
 
Just go to TDC on Compression stroke & set, no marks for 20yrs or more.

I was having trouble finding the exact point of TDC since with very little movement the exhaust valves were under tension.

It seems pretty simple to rotate until a set of valves are fully closed (intake), adjust those, and rotate for the other set (exhaust, on the same cylinder) until they are fully closed then adjust them and not pay attention as to whether it is TDC on the compression stroke to have both sets of valves free on that cylinder.

Maybe the cam lobe shapes wouldn't make that feasible but it certainly is done on Briggs V-twin motors.

What do I know though - I don't call myself a mechanic, but I am a pretty good parts changer.
 
I was having trouble finding the exact point of TDC since with very little movement the exhaust valves were under tension.

It seems pretty simple to rotate until a set of valves are fully closed (intake), adjust those, and rotate for the other set (exhaust, on the same cylinder) until they are fully closed then adjust them and not pay attention as to whether it is TDC on the compression stroke to have both sets of valves free on that cylinder.

Maybe the cam lobe shapes wouldn't make that feasible but it certainly is done on Briggs V-twin motors.

What do I know though - I don't call myself a mechanic, but I am a pretty good parts changer.

I use a wooden dowel or straw, get the cylinder close to TDC on the compression stroke then place the dowel in the uppermost spark plug hole down to the top of the piston and as you continue to rotate the engine very slowly the dowel will rise until it gets to TDC where there will be a spot where it stops momentarily before it starts to fall on the down stroke. Mark it level with the top of the spark plug hole and you will have it set for next time. You can rock it back and forth a few times to get it spot on but it's said that it should be positioned finally on the compression stroke to allow for any play in the valves etc. Hope that make sense. Use a dowel or straw rather than a metal rod just in case it jams against the piston.
 
I was having trouble finding the exact point of TDC since with very little movement the exhaust valves were under tension.

It seems pretty simple to rotate until a set of valves are fully closed (intake), adjust those, and rotate for the other set (exhaust, on the same cylinder) until they are fully closed then adjust them and not pay attention as to whether it is TDC on the compression stroke to have both sets of valves free on that cylinder.

Maybe the cam lobe shapes wouldn't make that feasible but it certainly is done on Briggs V-twin motors.

What do I know though - I don't call myself a mechanic, but I am a pretty good parts changer.

I have a wire tie on plastic straw so I can gauge the movement of piston rising, there is a dead spot on very top where rod moves over to go down. If you have a mark on straw to watch and gauge from a stationary point it becomes easy. A training of the eyes I guess. TDC check then you know both ex & in rockers should both have play. You'll get used to it. Have fun.
 
Perhaps a bit of over thinking going on here, if you're changing plugs and adjusting valves , the TDC
on the compression stroke ( after the intakes close ) is pretty well all you need to attend to valve checking
and adjusting if necessary . Why bother looking for a flywheel mark ? Peter
 
I did an oil change today on my 2017 Cal Touring. This is the 6k mil service and I'm thinking of doing the gearbox oil change myself and see if I can go to the dealer for the valve inspection/adjustment.

From previous threads, the oil filter wrench can be got from various places. I actually found that the one AutoZone carries worked perfectly. 76mm 14 flutes for $6.5 -
1

Part #W54106
SKU #153158
 
timing-jpg.21460



while doing the oil change, I pressed on the rubber cover of the inspection port and I thought I'll look at it after the oil change to put it back. I totally forgot about it and then when I started the engine, the cover got sucked in! I don't know what damage its going to do or how its going to come out. Its probably in pieces is my guess.

any idea what this part is called or its number? Can I duct tape the opening for now so that I can ride the bike?

Appreciate your thoughts
 
timing-jpg.21460


Part #GU93180220. It's just referred to as a "cover" in the geabox section of the 1400 spare parts manual

Cost is between $2 and $6 depending on where you shop. Can't answer your other questions, but I suspect it will get chewed up and come out with an oil change
 
It’s been awhile since I’ve sold my 1400 but I think your supposed to check the oil level with the dip stick screwed in on this bike. My griso is to be checked without screwing in the dipstick
 
In reference to the plug coming out with an oil change , not much chance of that . The bell housing is separate from the
engine and trans and should be dry . A strong vacuum cleaner may remove the bits . May even work better with the
motor idling . Good luck , Peter
 
In reference to the plug coming out with an oil change , not much chance of that . The bell housing is separate from the
engine and trans and should be dry . A strong vacuum cleaner may remove the bits . May even work better with the
motor idling . Good luck , Peter

Good point - I forgot it's dry in that bit of the transmission
 
In reference to the plug coming out with an oil change , not much chance of that . The bell housing is separate from the
engine and trans and should be dry . A strong vacuum cleaner may remove the bits . May even work better with the
motor idling . Good luck , Peter

Thanks Peter. I will give it a try and update here.
 
timing-jpg.21460



while doing the oil change, I pressed on the rubber cover of the inspection port and I thought I'll look at it after the oil change to put it back. I totally forgot about it and then when I started the engine, the cover got sucked in! I don't know what damage its going to do or how its going to come out. Its probably in pieces is my guess.

any idea what this part is called or its number? Can I duct tape the opening for now so that I can ride the bike?

Appreciate your thoughts
Lost my plug on my Jackal. Found a rubber bung that fit nicely. My mechanic told me not to worry. If it does get in the cogs, it can't cause any damage. Don't worry. Be happy.
 
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