• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Spark plug wire

gerryguzzi

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 27, 2014
Messages
20
Location
Montreal
I firstly tried to get an answer via a conversation with Canuck1969 but I don't think I connected properly.
So I will try this post. Tried to disconnect my left spark plug cap from the plug of my 2011 Stelvio. I failed and the wire broke off. The cap is the NGK SBO5EP.
I really don't know how to fix the problem. Do I need a new cap, new wire? Can you reconnect the existing wire to the cap...new or old???
As you can see I am at a loss as to what to do....Thanks and Regards.
 
The NGK cap screws into the high tension lead. If the wire broke off in the cap, it could be tricky to get the broken piece out. If there is enough lead remaining you can screw the cap back onto the wire, if not you may need a new cap and wire.
 
Was just about to answer you in the PM but sounds like you have it all straightened out.

Here is a tutorial on the cap just in case it comes out again. If it striped out the first time it may want to do it again. You may want to trim a little off the end of the wire and then re-thread it on the cap just to be sure. If you don't have a good connection it will cause issues.

Next time you pull it insert a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot just above the exhaust port. From there you will be able to pry up the plug so it does not happen again.

Glad you got it straightened out.
 

Attachments

  • Stelvio NTX NGK SB05E Spark Cap Replacement.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 33
You don't need to use a sledgehammer to push in a thumbtack!

Get yourself some cheap zip ties at the auto parts store. A nice 6-9" long. Bend the pointed end so it is at a 90 degree angle, like the letter "L". Now just start from the right hand side (if you are right handed) and fish the zip tie UNDER the plug wire on the motorcycle and push it through and low and behold, that little bend you made in it, will cause it to go under the plug wire and come back up towards you on the other side of the plug wire. Now, slide the wire down until it is completely under the plug cap.

Now the tough part.

If you want to keep and reuse the zip tie, take both side of the zip tie and pinch them together and grab it with a pair of pliers and simply lift up. The zip tie applies the lifting force to the back side of the plug wire cap and *Pop* it will come right off. Because all of the force was applied to the hard bakelite plastic body of the cap, rather than the soft rubber coated wire, no damage occurs. You can reuse the zip tie.

If pliers aren't handy, sacrifice the zip tie by threading it together just enough that you leave a space for your index finger to grasp the zip tie. Now gently pull upwards with your index finger and again *Pop* it will come right off. Slide zip tie off the end of the spark ply wire and throw in trash.

Go search this number at YouTube.com and watch the video. You'll understand instantly.

XPQFl7W-H88

Best wishes.
 
Last edited:
The NGK cap screws into the high tension lead. If the wire broke off in the cap, it could be tricky to get the broken piece out. If there is enough lead remaining you can screw the cap back onto the wire, if not you may need a new cap and wire.

I see and understand the replacement of the spark plug boot/cap. Is there not a full set spark plug wire and cap available?
 
Back
Top