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Alternator belt highest mileage.

John L

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Famiglia
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
400
Location
South Australia
Just wondering how far people have stretched the service distance on the alternator belt, had mine replaced at the required 50,000kms but it was still almost as good as new. Thinking I might leave it longer this time.
 

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I'd go with your thoughts if there was some easy way of inspecting it . But crap is it a song and dance
to get to it the way they are hidden now . Peter
 
Just wondering how far people have stretched the service distance on the alternator belt, had mine replaced at the required 50,000kms but it was still almost as good as new. Thinking I might leave it longer this time.

Hi John

I remember you posting last time you had it replaced - are you coming up to 100k now?

Any other issues that have caused concern on the bike in that time ? What's the clutch like, how many time have you replaced fuel filter, have valve adjusts settled down to something stable etc.

Paul
 
Hi John

I remember you posting last time you had it replaced - are you coming up to 100k now?

Any other issues that have caused concern on the bike in that time ? What's the clutch like, how many time have you replaced fuel filter, have valve adjusts settled down to something stable etc.

Paul

Hi Paul,
Currently 67,000kms so a way off yet for the next one. No problems or issues, clutch is still good, it takes up close to the end of the lever travel but it's always been like that. Haven't touched the fuel filter, I saw a post the other day saying they are a metal unit. Valves are still usually a little tight and need to be backed off a fraction to get them back into spec but there's not much in it. I change the oil every 5,000kms + filter at every 10,000km.
John.
 
I changed both the Stelvio and Griso belts at around 60,000 kms and they cost $35 each and as I was changing the fork oil at that time and greasing the steering bearings, it seemed an easy thing to do, and it was. I also replaced the clutch fluid as it is so simple to do thanks to the extension on the line. Most of these things can be done together and they give a little piece of mind plus there is the advantage of also cleaning and looking in places that you would never ordinarily see.
 
I changed both the Stelvio and Griso belts at around 60,000 kms and they cost $35 each and as I was changing the fork oil at that time and greasing the steering bearings, it seemed an easy thing to do, and it was. I also replaced the clutch fluid as it is so simple to do thanks to the extension on the line. Most of these things can be done together and they give a little piece of mind plus there is the advantage of also cleaning and looking in places that you would never ordinarily see.

Only problem with the 1400's Brian is that the engine has to be lowered in the frame to be able to remove the cover to access the belt, very poor design.
 
Check out the 3 videos made by a German Wrench "guzzi schrauber" showing the job.






If you think the alternator belt is difficult, take at look at him trying to reattach the clips on the air box :cry::cry::cry:
 
I just completed the 30,000 mile replacement. I've attached two pics for comparison, the belt look good to go for another 30,000 miles to me but at that point you replace it. (New belt is on the right).

The service manual tells you what to do but skips a lot of small steps, you do have to remove the bottom frame element (cradle), then support the engine and remove the silent block etc. on the front. You need a wheel chock stand to do it right (a lift would be great). The vids referenced by the German guy are helpful to review as well.

Its not a small job and you can use a little help at times, took me about 12 hours total but I was taking my time and really being careful not to break anything due to the issue with getting parts.

I could see a good mechanic familiar with the job getting it done in four hours or so.

Other pics are cradle, just dressing the bolts and holes a little, on the bench and the pile of parts you take off.
 

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Having done this job last year ( replaced an under-performing alternator) , no one should approach
this as a simple nuts and bolts job . Been an M/C wrench for too long and it still took me over 8 hrs , no power
tools of course , but still , a ridiculously involved job for a simple alternator replacement ( kinda like the older
Gold Wings ) Peter
 
Having done this job last year ( replaced an under-performing alternator) , no one should approach
this as a simple nuts and bolts job . Been an M/C wrench for too long and it still took me over 8 hrs , no power
tools of course , but still , a ridiculously involved job for a simple alternator replacement ( kinda like the older
Gold Wings ) Peter

I've read that you need a special tool to adjust the belt tension, is that carrect?
 
^ Something like that sounds correct , I used to have an HD belt tension tool that measured movement against force
exerted , but it was too awkward to try and fit . The adjustment however is pretty easy to get at and readjust if necessary .
Peter
 
Just a follow up with a little more detail: Manual states removing the tank but you only really need to do so if you are changing the alternator still the labor involved with everything else makes this a minor task. I also removed the front fender just so I would not scratch it, good thing as a bolt and bushing were missing. Other stuff includes removing the rear brake switch, the side stand switch, both oxygen sensors, disconnecting the horns and the oil temperature(?) sensor on the lower front of the engine. BYW the brake switch is $139 with 4-6 week delivery from one source I use, a partial reason for my care on the job. Also the factory put the brake linkage pin clip on upside down which made it impossible to remove without taking the master cylinder loose.

As far as the actual belt goes, make sure the engine is in neutral (you've taken off the shift linkage and floorboards) and some sparkplugs are removed (you are doing the 30K valve check anyway) so you can rotate the crank bolt to roll the old belt off and the new one on. Tension adjustment is easy and the methods without a tensioning tool have been mentioned. You can estimate the tension of the old belt if its in a good a shape as mine.

I agree with Moto-Uno it is a rather big job but if you like working on stuff and have the time and are careful a garage mechanic can do it. Finally, a dealer quoted $2000 for the 30K service so there you are.
 
Todd, Malibu is a long way from Mississippi! If you were close I'd stop "practicing". I just think some of the dealers have mechanics with little experience and that makes the job a long one.
 
Just a follow up with a little more detail: Manual states removing the tank but you only really need to do so if you are changing the alternator still the labor involved with everything else makes this a minor task. I also removed the front fender just so I would not scratch it, good thing as a bolt and bushing were missing. Other stuff includes removing the rear brake switch, the side stand switch, both oxygen sensors, disconnecting the horns and the oil temperature(?) sensor on the lower front of the engine. BYW the brake switch is $139 with 4-6 week delivery from one source I use, a partial reason for my care on the job. Also the factory put the brake linkage pin clip on upside down which made it impossible to remove without taking the master cylinder loose.

As far as the actual belt goes, make sure the engine is in neutral (you've taken off the shift linkage and floorboards) and some sparkplugs are removed (you are doing the 30K valve check anyway) so you can rotate the crank bolt to roll the old belt off and the new one on. Tension adjustment is easy and the methods without a tensioning tool have been mentioned. You can estimate the tension of the old belt if its in a good a shape as mine.

I agree with Moto-Uno it is a rather big job but if you like working on stuff and have the time and are careful a garage mechanic can do it. Finally, a dealer quoted $2000 for the 30K service so there you are.

Wow - that's got to be close to half the 2nd hand value of a 30k mile 6 year old discontinued 1400, but looking at the videos I'm not surprised by the labour. John L got his at a bargain price 1st time around.
 
I am just about finished changing the alternator belt on my 2016 Eldorado. I watched the video of the German guy doing his but I decided it must be possible without tearing it down as far as he did. It IS possible. I did not remove the exhaust pipes, the gas tank, or the lower frame cradle. It wasn't easy but I managed to move things out of the way enough to get the old belt out and the new one in. It has taken several days because I only work on it for an hour or so at a time. I should have it finished tomorrow. Like others have commented, the old belt looked not much different from the new one.
Garwood
 
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