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Balancing the Throttle Bodies

Ray1150

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Famiglia
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
275
Location
London
So, after stripping the bike down looking for an electrical fault on the loom that wasn't there including disturbing the tps I found there was no tickover.
Following both the manual and Mikes excellent youtube video I set up the injectors again.
It's still not right although I've done it a few times, the main problem is that it runs for a bit and then spits and stops.

Am I missing something obvious here, all the components are working and the injectors are balanced and set as instructed.

First Essex MGOC meeting this weekend in a long time, looks like we'll be on the Sport.

Any bright ideas anyone?
 
Balance Injectors? Never hear of this. Do you mean balance the throttle bodies? Is the TPS value correct? Is the TPS functioning properly? You need software to read the TPS degrees open and to see if it changes reading smoothly as you open the throttle.
 
Sorry, throttle bodies, TPS has the correct resistance 680 ohms and is set @150mv with the throttles completely closed.
What software would you recommend John, does Todd sell it?
I remember in 2010 I bought something off him when I had a Stelvio to set the TPS.
 
Sorry, throttle bodies, TPS has the correct resistance 680 ohms and is set @150mv with the throttles completely closed.
What software would you recommend John, does Todd sell it?
I remember in 2010 I bought something off him when I had a Stelvio to set the TPS.


Unfortunately the V10 uses a different ECU from the Stelvio. If you purchased the Pro version of the software it will work. If you purchased the single ECU version, it will not. You may need to go to a dealer to hook up software unless you can find someone with the Techno Researce Pro version of software either Alaris, or Centurion.
 
I serviced 6 V10's in Daytona & Centaur trim back in IL. No software used, software makes it easier is all. They like to the + of 150mv, I set all Guzzi's at 165 cuz they simply run better. Air screws should be around 3/4 turns out, both the exact same w/clean bodies. You balance your rpm up where you like it, then w/an insulated small screwdriver set your idle mixture. Screw is next to chip in ECU through the opening. I use a Colortune to get perfect mixture flame color. If idle goes up & smooths out, re-sync bodies back down where you like it. I can not remember the mv I used to set idle at. Took too long to poke into wiring & find out.
Another member here has a V10, Scott. Ought to be pretty good at it too. I didn't get my TechnoResearch Pro till 07, which made my life way easier. Good luck w/it. Stock they had like a dead spot on idle that would make them die, you can tune this out of it (almost) by using mix screw & air bypass screws. Most of the ones I serviced had a hot chip & no airbox.
 
Thanks guys, sounds like I'm doing everything right just got to keep fiddling with it. I'll try 165 on the TPS tho'.
 
What chip is in the ECU? Will Creedon's excellent and well proven C5 chip is still available directly from Will. I've had his chips since day 1 in both of my Centauros.

Will is over on COG (The Centauro Owners Group forum) which has very light traffic nowadays, but it still frequented by a few of us here and Will does respond to Private Messages sent to him there. His username is his name, Will Creedon.

There are also tune up posts and lots of info to help you along. If you have a specific question or need, PM me here at Guzzi Tech and I'll get back to you.

(Just checked previous conversations and somehow we got lost in the mix, you and I Ray. So sorry! If you need help, PM me and I'll get right back with you). I will check the conversation manually for a few days to see if you respond. Hopefully it will notify me correctly this time!)
 
Hello Scott, thanks for the pm, when I was stripping the bikes electrics previously I found notes written on the underside of the ecu. Turns out when the bike was new it was chipped by a bike shop about 20 miles away I'd not heard of, looked them up and they're still there offering dyno services. Until I buggered it up I wasn't unhappy with the way the bike runs. (I'm on the COG too, as you say light use these days.)

I finally got her running right again, set the tps @ 150 (-165) mv, DO NOT set the initial tick over as recommended, back the tickover screws off. Spend some time making sure the bodies are as balanced as you can get them and then wind out the idle screws 3/4 of a turn and set the tick over using the connecting bar adjuster. Use hylomar (or similar) on all joints to make sure it's not drawing air from where it shouldn't.
I seem to keep learning things the hard way with the V10, hope this helps someone.
 
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I'm English......................actually.......................:D
 
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