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V9 Roamer Fork Mess

The right side no caliper was simple-ish just loosen the Triple tree bolts as well as the headlight mount, remove the fender.
Yes, you have to remove the ABS sensor and caliper, which Is a little more fooling around.
I had to search around a bit when routing the line/wire for the ABS sensor, that was really the “Hardest” part, I should have been paying more attention when I was disassembling. ( or took pictures ;) )
 
Reminds me of many other modern contraptions we have to deal with. Scientific engineering has often made the simple quite difficult.

I don’t remmember what car it was, but you had to remove the dash “Completely” to do some job, heater core or something. Turning a might have been a 300$ job into a 2000$ job ( guessing)
 
I don’t remmember what car it was, but you had to remove the dash “Completely” to do some job, heater core or something. Turning a might have been a 300$ job into a 2000$ job ( guessing)

I had an old Volvo like that many years ago. The entire dash and center console had to be removed to replace a leaking heater core. And "yes", it was about $2000 to get it done. And that was back in the late 90s.

The car had been designed for a 4 cylinder, but Volvo wanted a performance version so it stuck a 6 into it. There was so little room that you could not look under the hood and see the ground under it anywhere. I had three different Volvo mechanic shops work on it, and after each service the shop would say, "sorry" we will not work on that again, and I would have to find a different shop. Suffice it to say, I sold the car after two years, and wished I had never bought it.
 
So, I take it that you want to drop the center bolt on leg bottom under axle & empty forks then install new seal and put back on. I do the same on a EV but I have a drain screw. You still have to pump oil out of cartridge. You can put them back up & pump front on a short stool, then no need for wheel. Most pull tubes & all from the triple tree. There is NO right or wrong way to do it. I would just carry on with it. Dust seals just push in easy, slide them up the tube before assembly. Squeeze bushing together on bottom of tube & slide it up tube. I use Molykote 55 oring grease for lube & haven't had any issues.
I also have a friend across the Bay there that knows a good wrench if needed.
 
I don’t remmember what car it was, but you had to remove the dash “Completely” to do some job, heater core or something. Turning a might have been a 300$ job into a 2000$ job ( guessing)

You got me laughing. I have a 2019 Ram 2500 diesel. The air conditioner was always a bit weak with little real volume of air blowing out the vents. No big deal, even when the temperatures are very hot here in Florida. Ram sent me a bulletin saying to bring it to the dealer and they will fix the weak air conditioner. OK, what the heck. Free under warranty and I only had 8K miles on it.

Then they gave me a free rental truck. ???? Three days later, dash removed and more, I returned the rental. They had to remove the dash and lots of things to get parts replaced that were blocking the air passages plus make a coolant adjustment. Silly to me but OK. Works fine now. Just a bit much for something that you would think is simple.

I will look at the triple tree and see if there is room to drop the tubes down. Was just going to take the lowers off, replace the seals. looking to see if that one seal did removed itself from the seat and figure out if there is a mechanical issue.

Conjecture - there was too much oil on the fork and with little expansion room, there was too much push and up popped the seal. It went from not a hint of a weep to blown out like all at once. We had been running on a rough road and I did blow right over some rough railroad tracks. She did make some "causal" remarks for me to slow down as the bumps were awful but before I could think of a tactful reply, the smoke and fun started.

FYI ... a product called Spray Nine sure cleans clothes of oil before putting them into the washer. It also removes any film you may have on windshields. Spray Nine even cleaned up the burned-on header oil before using polish. She gets it in bulk on Ebay. I know nothing for if I did clean anything once, she would want me to do it twice. Never make a mistake like that.
 
Appreciate the wishes and advice. Pam, my wife, and I were both injured last Summer when the front brakes on my R Model Sportster decided to lock up. No stopee' for me as she leaned left. She ended up across the other lane on the shoulder and I was under the bike in the middle of the road.

Pam got lots of internal injuries. Mine was just a lot of blood. Both of us were "fully dressed" with helmets. Old and flopped on the ground do not go well together. I recently quit flat tracking because of that issue.

As for the V9, just might be the same fork. 150mm down at full compression is hard to do by yourself unless you have some kind of help. I just expect to pull the lowers off. Then probably find that a nasty compression while we were riding dislodged that seal from the seat. Only thing I can figure for such a fast and horrendous pouring of oil. After changing the seals, gonna do both sides, I am just going to hope and guess at the amount.

Appreciate the idea of 400mm, which was my original guess. Strange those "Goose" manuals do not have that information. They also do not have anything on valve adjustments either. I just did one on this bike using "common sense" setting them at .005" intake and .007" exhaust. Guessed at TDC with a stick in the plug hole. Been doing that for decades.

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41 years old and new meet. The V9 now sports a flatscreen, modified comfort seat, and "goose" bags.

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Last time I changed the oil in my V7 forks I made this. The tube is set at 150mm and I keep filling the fork tube until the brass tube is immersed. I then suck out what isn’t needed until no more appears in the syringe. Seems to work fine.
 

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Last time I changed the oil in my V7 forks I made this. The tube is set at 150mm and I keep filling the fork tube until the brass tube is immersed. I then suck out what isn’t needed until no more appears in the syringe. Seems to work fine.

What a great idea. I mean WOW!

Gonna make one later today. Thanks.
 
Motion Pro makes one for those here in the States for $16; amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI/
Thanksl

Having never taken the caps off I'm now wondering it the hold is so small that you need a teeny tube to get down in or can just use a 1/2" outside diameter firm hose for the measurement?

Now gonna have to take a cap off and look.
 
I use a steel metric ruler w/duct tape folded over at the right spot. Looks like a flag but works great AND doesn't cost a penny. My Hi-Tek tools. I'd just drain it, pump it, then pour in 400cc & cap it. I charge 1hr per leg to take them off & change fld.
 
Motion Pro makes one for those here in the States for $16; amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI/

I made mine as I had the bits in the garage for the homemade version already. A bit more expensive and a wait here though from Amazon.
 

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I use a steel metric ruler w/duct tape folded over at the right spot. Looks like a flag but works great AND doesn't cost a penny. My Hi-Tek tools. I'd just drain it, pump it, then pour in 400cc & cap it. I charge 1hr per leg to take them off & change fld.

Like your style.

Like many specialty tools, they get used once and then become more of the junk stashed all around. Already had a baster with a small hose attached. It was just 5" long so 150mm is about 5/34". Once I see how big the hole is I will have a better idea of what I might "Jury rig" to work.

I have a 6" stainless small ruler that might work except for the fact that I would probably drop it inside the tube. Got a bit of Polish in my blood and if stupid can happen, I will show you how it is done.
 
Picked up a manual on Ebay. It states the air gap in a vertical, removed fork is 120 mm ( less than 5"). Going to do two things next week.

After looking at the "book" , it says I have to completely remove the fork tubes from the triple clamps. OUCH! Now it is near above my pay grade as I do not have a full lift rack to do this. Always just removed the lowers, changed the seals, slip them back on the forks and filled from the top caps.

The "book" wants all lower seal work done and filled vertically off the bike. Then you compress the spring, screw the cap on and insert the whole mess back into the triple tree.

The second thing is I am not longer gonna do it myself. Called my friend at a local independent Harley shop. They don't like to work on any "spaghetti bender" but I am such a good customer they will do this for me. They have helped on some of my old BMW's in the past so American Cycle in Tampa will change their name for a day.
 
Picked up a manual on Ebay. It states the air gap in a vertical, removed fork is 120 mm ( less than 5"). Going to do two things next week.

After looking at the "book" , it says I have to completely remove the fork tubes from the triple clamps. OUCH! Now it is near above my pay grade as I do not have a full lift rack to do this. Always just removed the lowers, changed the seals, slip them back on the forks and filled from the top caps.

The "book" wants all lower seal work done and filled vertically off the bike. Then you compress the spring, screw the cap on and insert the whole mess back into the triple tree.

The second thing is I am not longer gonna do it myself. Called my friend at a local independent Harley shop. They don't like to work on any "spaghetti bender" but I am such a good customer they will do this for me. They have helped on some of my old BMW's in the past so American Cycle in Tampa will change their name for a day.

The fork tubes have a bushing at the end that goes into the slider. The seals are the last part inserted because if you try to place the tube in the slider with the seal in place the bushing edge will damage the seal. I suggest you take it to someone who is familiar with this type of fork. I don't know if Harley's use bushings, or if they would have the correct size seal driver to drive the seal after the tube is placed in the slider.
 
Oh ---- Thanks.

Now I really know I would have made a mess of the job. With the existence of that end bushing the total removal now makes sense. I will have to both show and assist in this repair so things can go in a reasonable way.

This is by far my most "modern" motorcycle. It has become a learning experience, starting with the valve job I did the old fashioned way that worked. Already cleaned out the oil in the airbag. Surprised that a teeny allen key opens up so much of the service operation and more.

I'll let you know if I find and adjust the points and condenser.
 
Don’t forget to check the Coil !

The distributer can show me that as long as each cylinder does not have its' own coil.

Was that beer distributor?

Gonna retail silent until after next Wednesday when I take it to my friends; little Harley repair shop. Guessing, after looking at the breakdown on pictures in a manual, that something inside broke or came loose. That was no leak as usual. That was a complete removal of the seal to pour out all of a sudden and so fast. Not surprised if other parts are needed and I am up poop creek.

From my visiting and conversations with two dealers, parts are not in stock. Even the seals I got I was long-looking to source them at MG Cycle. Got bad vibes this will be a timely repair. Will see.
 
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