• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

California 1400 plug wires

John Symchik

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Englishtown, NJ
I had mentioned it earlier and have rebuilt/replaced my wires.

From Kingsborne I purchased Beru Veso 116 coil plug ends. Weren't easy to find for me. They thread right on to 7mm copper wire. I covered them with a nice woven split loom sheath and finished the ends with shrink tube. I even used one red wire because Im very in to my image. The only question in my mind is if the increase in resistance matters. Apparently they have 1k ohms of resistance where the stock plug is non resistor. The bike runs fine with them and I suspect its a non issue. The caps are around $8 ea and wire is somewhere around $1 per foot give or take.

Be warned of this howrver. I ordered an equivalent part elsewhere and it requires a "saw tooth" connection that crimps on to the wire. The connector then goes into the cap. Its more work and you need a crimper. I kept those as spares and used the thread on types. Kingborne had the saw tooth connectors and I got the caps somewhere in NC for a reasonable price. That route is a bit cheaper.

All in maybe just north if $40 if you already bought the SB05E caps. Otherwise add them. I snagged some pretty chesp on Ebay I think.
 
At how many miles you changed those wires? I purchased plugs already but not intending to change wires until I cross more than 24k miles.
 
I should make one thing clear.

I only did this because after changing to the NGK caps as is recommended, there was no slack and there was a bit of pull on the wires. Just one on each side.

I often make work for myself and likely this was an instance. Im sure your wires aren't bad at 24k.

I added this info for anyone truly in need, but I guess I wouldn't advocate changing everything like I did over a taught wire.

I do like that I know I don't jave to buy wires for $50ea from MG.
 
Back
Top