radioheadmike
Tuned and Synch'ed
Thanks for sharing!
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V7-850 Evap and Tip Info
- Thread starter GTM®
- Start date
radioheadmike
Tuned and Synch'ed
I ended up removing the spring instead of removing the cannister. I am noticing a quicker engine turnover with a slight press of the ignition button. The weather has cooled up here, so I can't really do any further testing. What exactly is the science behind the spring? What's the negative impact of removing it?
It's much simpler, the downside is that you may possibly smell some gasoline vapors.
Alexandros
Just got it firing!
Hello my friend,
I fasing also issues with the throttle around 3500 and 4000 rpm and my conclusion is poor mixture and since here in Greece we are over 32 degrees all the summer this symptoms are continuously. Can you confirm improved behaviour of the engine with the disconnection of the canister.
Thank you
Alexandros
I'm happy to confirm that for you too, Alexandros. Disconnecting the canister eliminated the hiccup immediately. Google V7 850 hiccup for more reading.
Sarah
Sarah
Alexandros
Just got it firing!
Thx Sarah for the info.
Pridanc
Tuned and Synch'ed
Todd, so bottom line, we need to keep the line the line that goes to the tank from this two colored valve? I'm taking it is the Vent line to the fuel tank then? OK, I'll first modify the valve as you mention but then run a long line to the back of the bike so that IF fuel ever comes out of it, there is no chance of a fire... TY
radioheadmike
Tuned and Synch'ed
If fuel does get into the cannister due to overfill, does that raw fuel get burned eventually? or is the cannister kaput
My 2021 850 Special was experiencing the typical “cutout” issue we have all historically described. My Moto Guzzi dealer mechanic actually called last week and without saying the exact words, encouraged me to pursue the EVAP mod which he said came from their discussion with Italy. Finally had time to deal with mine today. I prefer to do mechanic’ing so things don’t appear like a hack job. So, for my mod, I drilled out the check valve then reinstalled. For the vacuum hose, I made a 5/16” diameter 3/8” long metal slug for a plug. Inserted the slug in the hose 1 inch above the Bosch vent valve, then reconnected that hose to vent valve and reinstalled the factory clamps. All this to say, my system "appears" stock, but functions per the modification. Lastly, as expected, it cured the engine “cutout” issue.
Thanks for posting. I haven't gotten the time to dig into one yet. The grey/green valve pops apart with a little heat, and can be easily/affectively gutted and snapped backed together. It's documented on the other V7 Evap thread.
Let us know if you get the Check Engine Light (CEL).
Let us know if you get the Check Engine Light (CEL).
Rode it to work yesterday (10 miles one way). Left the plug in place and no check engine light. Guessing that as long as the valve is still plugged in, the ECU won’t know the difference, valve actuates when told to, but doesn't DO anything FOR the EVAP system. As everyone has already indicated, engine runs GREAT compared to pre-mod.
Very good, the SAS system is a bit more (somehow) smarter. Plugging it on the V85TT and 1400 gives a CEL. Ride on, enjoy!
foggy95
Tuned and Synch'ed
I did the evap removal and the SAS block off kit on my 2021 V7850 Special. I used the SAS block off kit listed for the V7III and had no issues. Bike runs great, don't understand the 'pigtail' concerns, supplied pigtail for the V7III kit plugged right in and as I mentioned, my V7850 responded beautifully to these mods. Also, my 850 is running Mistral shorty mufflers and K&N filter. Fueling is spot on, no popping on decel, smooth and linear throttle response throughout rev range. Bike has 2,000 miles on it now and these mods were made at about 1,000 miles. Maybe I'm just lucky?
note - leave the Bosch valve thing connected electrically or you'll get the CEL. I disconnected the 'in' and the 'out' hoses to that valve and capped the now open fittings with vacuum caps.
note - leave the Bosch valve thing connected electrically or you'll get the CEL. I disconnected the 'in' and the 'out' hoses to that valve and capped the now open fittings with vacuum caps.
Thanks for posting. So the pump that pulls the air from the lines is different from the Bosch pump then, correct? My pigtail plugged in, and no CEL? I would note to leave the Bosch pump connected, so thanks for confirming that as well.
foggy95
Tuned and Synch'ed
Sorry for the late reply - internet was down all of yesterday...and most of today.
Not sure what you are referring to as the 'Bosch' pump ... but if it's that gadget that sits on top of the engine below the tank, with the two hoses going to the reed valves and the longer hose going to the air box (?) ... that gadget is outwardly identical on both the V7III 750 and the V7 850, with the exception of a number stamped on it. The V7III is stamped '917 0998' and the 850 '0Y6 0355'. I have no idea if this is a part number or what.
The only item that is actually marked 'Bosch' is that valve that is part of the evap system and is inserted in the hose between the charcoal canister and the intake to the throttle body. That is listed as part # B018242 in the V7 850 parts catalog. And, that valve has an electrical connection that must remain or you'll get the CEL light if you run the engine with that disconnected. (I know, I did it ... but after I reconnected it and rode a few miles and performed 5 or 6 restarts of the engine, the fault cleared itself). So, I removed all the other evap related stuff just as I did on my V7III with the exception of that Bosch valve ... I removed the hoses on each side of that valve and capped both sides with vacuum caps and left the valve in place and electrically connected. That Bosch valve is visible in the bottom picture of the first post on this thread
The bike runs great with those mods I listed above, unfortunately I haven't been able to ride for weeks now with this cold weather, it's been in the teens and low twenties for weeks here.
Not sure what you are referring to as the 'Bosch' pump ... but if it's that gadget that sits on top of the engine below the tank, with the two hoses going to the reed valves and the longer hose going to the air box (?) ... that gadget is outwardly identical on both the V7III 750 and the V7 850, with the exception of a number stamped on it. The V7III is stamped '917 0998' and the 850 '0Y6 0355'. I have no idea if this is a part number or what.
The only item that is actually marked 'Bosch' is that valve that is part of the evap system and is inserted in the hose between the charcoal canister and the intake to the throttle body. That is listed as part # B018242 in the V7 850 parts catalog. And, that valve has an electrical connection that must remain or you'll get the CEL light if you run the engine with that disconnected. (I know, I did it ... but after I reconnected it and rode a few miles and performed 5 or 6 restarts of the engine, the fault cleared itself). So, I removed all the other evap related stuff just as I did on my V7III with the exception of that Bosch valve ... I removed the hoses on each side of that valve and capped both sides with vacuum caps and left the valve in place and electrically connected. That Bosch valve is visible in the bottom picture of the first post on this thread
The bike runs great with those mods I listed above, unfortunately I haven't been able to ride for weeks now with this cold weather, it's been in the teens and low twenties for weeks here.
The Bosch valve (shown clearly in post #1 above) is different from the “SAS pump” - thanks for confirming that the SAS pump is the same. So @FedeleMotoGuzzi - you are all set with what was sent. Please carefully peruse the SAS thead and video I have on YouTube.
Waiting for rain. Those are the days I try to do my bench or garage work, including the SAS mod. Will report back here once completed and post test runs.
Thanks for this post. Trying to sort out the hiccup today. What would happen if you didn’t drill out the check/breather valve? Couldn’t one just take this part out and put a connect?
Thank you! Worked like a charm!!!
I see you got the results you were after! To answer your question about the dual colored valve, @GTM® says these valves can be warmed up a bit and the two halves separated then gutted. I drilled mine out “just because”. However, as you probably discovered, the drill bit immediately bites into these guts and the guts start spinning inside the valve. Requires just a tad bit of persuasion to push through.
Glad you are enjoying the benefits. This is a GREAT site hosted by serious experience!
Enjoy!
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