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B11 neutral switch

londonrob

londonrob

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
250
Anybody changed one of these?
Mine started playing up tonight and i now get a neutral light in almost every gear, and sometimes if the bikes cranked over :laugh:
It was too late and too dark to start fiddling when i got home.
Are they as easy to change as the switch on a tonti?
 
From the parts manual it is located at the very back of the transmission. I'd say it isn't as easy as the tonti. If you can't get to it from the rear wheel cavity, you may have to remove the battery box to gain access.
 
Yes, i've had a look today and it's not the easiest thing to get to. :angry:
Might leave it till i change my rear shock spring for my nooo beefy Hyperpro spring.
That should give me plenty of room to play with!
For now i think a bit of bit of black insulting tape on the dash will take care of that annoying green light ;)
 
I think thats true of just about every bike on the road today, they all have their little quirks when it comes to fixing em.
Designers should have to work in a bike shop for a few weeks when they get taken on, that way they might understand about servicing and repair difficulties, and getting a 17mm spanner into a 15mm hole :laugh:
 
GrahamNZ wrote:
Do we ever get the feeling that someone designs the power unit and someone else designs the rest of the bike?
Click to expand...

Try to change a bulb in many new cars, you have to remove inner-mudguards or bumpers :angry:

I've seen expierienced mechanics working 40 minutes to change one on a car, you don't want to know the costs for changing one bulb then.....
 
Mine neutral light was playing up for a while, I was sure it was the sensor however it just a bad connection between the instrument pannel and its plug. After a bit of contact cleaner and some AFC50 it now fine.
 
Hi,
Mine started getting intermittent, then would never come on. Bought a new one for about $16 US. I tried the approach of the battery box, then gave up and removed the tank and airbox. After that, it's completely in the open and easy to access. If memory serves, I needed a deep reach socket. If you decide to change the switch you can 'test' your socket on the new one before opening everything up. Works fine now.
Warren Y
 
Thanks Warren
Any probs getting the airbox out, anything to watch for?
rob
 
It's a very tight fit between the frame tubes. Also make sure you drain, then disconnect the oil drain tube, guess what happens if you forget. I don't need to guess. :angry:
 
Hi,
"Brian UK" is right on! Also don't forget to reattach the air line to the stepper motor. Biggest issue I have with putting the airbox in is making sure the rubber tubes are completely seated around the throttle body pipes. You may need to get some kind of thin tool like a small blade screwdriver to slide in between the tube and the throttle pipe to get it on properly. Be extremely careful not to scratch the throttle pipe though! When both rubber tubes are on correctly, the rear of the box fits down properly without a "springiness" to "pop up". I hope that makes sense!!??
Warren Y
 
G'day all,

I had something similiar, but can't quite remember exactly what was happening as it was over a year ago, But I think the light came on and cut the engine even if I was in gear or when starting it was in neutral but light not on????

Anyway I think the solution was that the connector for the switch near the gearbox?? was loose or a poor connection.

Sorry can't be more positive, but I am sure it was a loose or poor connection and was a known problem from poor assembly in factory.

Greg
 
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