• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Pazzo Levers on Griso

atiliocorneli

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Messages
17
Location
Mexico City
Hello you all,
I own a 2006 Griso V1100 from 2 weeks now and I am wondering if I buy a pair of shorty Pazzo Levers for stock replacement.
Do someone did this and are Pazzo's noticeable better than stock ones? do the clutch lever get better touch of it's looong travel?
 
Got the Pazzo shorties. They do not work any better however they look great. Clutch can get a bit heavy when in heavy traffic.
 
Not sure if it's what you meant but I found even with the span adjuster set the bite point was still way out there. I have goodly sized hands but I like it closer to the bars. I removed the blade and filed some material off the adjuster. This really wasn't hard to do. It's much improved and cost nothing.
 
Thanks cyclobutch, that is exactly what I was looking for. I will try to adjust stock lever as you did to take the bite point closer to the grip. Nevertheless the Pazzo's look is great, but they are so expensive for getting good look only...
Now about taking off material from the adjuster, can you be more specific and explain how you did? Thanks
 
Can't remember exactly how it went, but ...

Once you have the blade off and in your hand it's pretty clear how the span adjuster bit comes apart. At the core of this is I think a square with an off centre (eccentric) hole through it. It's the rotation of this and hence the different distance from the flat of the square to the actuator that affects the span. Can't remember which way around it is but I suspect it's the flat that's closest to the hole that we're interested in. I filed this, effectively reducing the distance from the flat to the hole. Take it easy, bit at a time and check until it's where you want it.

I'm hoping that's kind of clear ... sorry - no pics unless I pull it off again.
 
I fitted some pazzon levers, and love them, the look and feel etc. I bought red to accentuate the black.
Click on the photo below to see the rest of the shots, before and after.

 
Look great, but would they be classed as long or short? I'm looking to replace mine with shorties, but how short are short?
 
Mine are long, Short would look great, as to the effort required to work shorties? the brake would not be a problem, but the clutch?? I think the short ones are about as long as where the wee snap marks are on the levers...
 
I have the shorties on my bike and I like them. The levers go to the end of the handlebars and that works perfect for the bar end mirrors that I use. I don't notice any more effort for either the clutch or brake. Depending on how big your hands are your pinky finger may or may not completely fit on the lever, my gloves have the the pinky finger webbed to the next finger so I don't notice it. If you're in the bay area you're welcome to try them out.
ry%3D400

ry%3D400
 
I posted a similar question for the Norge, a couple of months back. Got similar replies, and also the warning that the Pazzos (Pazzi?) do not have (copper?) bushings, so can get worn out around the pins they rotate about.
 
Moto510 said:
Depending on how big your hands are your pinky finger may or may not completely fit on the lever

Unfortunately i have shovels at the end of my arms. I'm thinking long over short......Thanks for the photo's though, great to compare...
 
I think it is not enough to change the lever, but needs either smaller diameter master cylinder or new lever and turning point system (whole system) with geometry that has shorter leverage, the distance from the rotating pin to the push pin. I think original cylinder is 19mm, hard to measure without opening, and the original lever has 25mm leverage, easy to measure. Brembo has a model where the leverage can be tuned so that it virtually changes the "cylinder" diameter.

I made a little fine tuning by shortening the push pin so that the clutch is easier to keep down in traffic. Improvement is not too big, but I think my thumb is not getting as painful as earlier:)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattinaska ... 106805970/
 
Back
Top