• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Breva Number Plate Light

bronco_breva

bronco_breva

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
81
Location
Birmingham England
I've just been giving the bike a once over and the number plate light looks a bit dim, so I thought I'd remove it to check the bulb. It apears i've got to remove the cover under the mudguard, How? There's lots of bolts and screws under the mudguard and seat. Whick ones do I remove and which parts need to come off.

I don't think this is going to be a road side fix,

Bronco_Breva B)
 
It isn't very bright because it is only a 5 watt bulb. Take a look at the parts manual in the download section. It appears to be fairly straight forward. Tab 35 shows only two nuts holding the light assembly.
 
john zibell said:
It isn't very bright because it is only a 5 watt bulb. Take a look at the parts manual in the download section. It appears to be fairly straight forward. Tab 35 shows only two nuts holding the light assembly.
Click to expand...

I've seen the parts manual and the 2 nuts, but the nuts are behind the inner mudguard pannel, this is what I want to find out how to remove.

Bronco
 
Bronco,
Interesting that that panel doesn't show in Tab 17 like it should. Start with the six allen screws you can see from the bottom. If necessary, you may need to take out the top two from under the seat that help to hold on the rear fender.
 
Got around to replacing the number plate light today, what a pain in the ass.

The pannel underneath the seat is all in one, Battery, tool holder etc, so you have to take the number plate holder off complete with indicators.

To do this you need to remove the following first,

1, Remove seat.
2, Remove right hand pannier bar, if fitted.
3, Remove top box rack (givi) to access two allen screws holding rear light on.
4, Remove right hand seat pannel. This allows the rear light to be removed. The wirings is also on this side.
5, Remove rear light,
6, The number plate and indicator panel can now be removed.

The bulb holder can now be pulled out from its holder, no need to remove the 2 nuts holding the light on. All the wiring can be left in place as its long enough to remove the parts.

One problem I had is one of the screws was rusted in and it turned the metal clip it screws into, splitting the lug on the seat pannel. there where several other rusty screws but they came out ok. All screws are now copper greased and it should be easy to remove them next time.

The worst allen screws to remove were the 2 underneath, just above the pillion foot rest. The other 2 rusty one's where the ones under the pillon seat that exit just behind the rear light and the metal tab/nut is exposed to the elements.

My bulb was still working but was very dull, on removel I found it bad blackened with age.

My bikes 4 years old and has been exposed to winter riding before I had it, so the salts got at it, I'd recomened removing as many of these allen screws as possible and greasing them.

Bronco_Breva :roll: :x
 
Thanks for sharing this info, it doesn't sound like a roadside job....
Why these PITA constructions to change a simple lightbulb... :angry:

Same problem with a lot of modern cars, not talking about Xenon... just try to reach a bulb under the hood. :sick:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top