• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Dropping the forks

Dah-Dit

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
52
Breva 1100.

Has anyone dropped their forks through the headstock to tweak the steering a little? If so by how much?

On my previous bike (Diversion 900) it was a relatively common thing to do as they seemed to be set up out of the factory for straight line stability rather than handling. Showing about 10-15mm of fork above the top of the headstock made a miraculous improvement in the handling.........

As I learn to love my Breva more and more by the day, I've just become aware that I'm getting a bit of back pressure from the bars whilst tipping it in. Whilst not wanting to affect stability, I'm just wondering if anyone has tweaked their front end to improve matters? I'll get my allen keys out to have a play tomorrow - but has anybody done this already?

Am I alone in experiencing this?

Rgds,

Neil
 
You could put a stiffer spring or better shock on the back to raise it up, gain better corner clearance and better turn in. Todd has all the bits you need
 
You could just drop the preload a little bit.

The preload doesn't stiffen the spring, unless it pushes against a physical stop (EG, extended all the way out, and tightening the preload)

Removing preload just lowers the bike in relation to the spring itself. You will loose some suspension travel though.

If you just want to experiment, maybe i could make you a spacer for the bar risers so you can move them up a little, and then move the forks, so you dont sacrifice travel?
 
Peload never stiffens a spring. Preload is a tool to set ride height. Reducing front preload will lower the front ride height and consequently steepen the fork rake angle and reduce stabilising trail, which will "quicken" the steering. Increasing rear preload will have the same effect. However, quickening steering at the expense of having the best ride height at both ends is short-sighted. The easiest way to quicken steering safely is to fit wider 'bars.
 
Back
Top