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Griso airbox removal?
- Thread starter Hoover
- Start date
There was a thread some time ago where somebody had attached 2 K&N cones directly to the back of the throtte bodies. I just searched for it, but was unsuccessful. It looked quite effective, it actually looked really good and he insisted it worked very well. He did put the K&N model #'s etc on the post and he was developing a cover for the removed airbox, maybe Todd can find it for you....
Penis Rotor
GT Godfather!
Unless you are willing to go down the full PCV/AT or alternative map modifier path you will find with the stock mapping opening up the breathing substantially on the inlet side will turn it into a poor running and unenjoyable pig.
What are you hoping to achieve apart from faster engine wear?
Pete
What are you hoping to achieve apart from faster engine wear?
Pete
Griso Guy
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Hoover said:
Hi Dave,
I am the Griso owner that elimenated the huge restrictive Griso airbox/battery tray.
Here is what I had done & had to do/make or come up with. After the box is gone there are several things you need to do. There is a air temp sensor or air flow sensor that must be fitted at the flat end of a air filter. 3 holes drilled to to mount screws & the 3rd is actually longated in between the 2 screw holes this allows the sensor to fit
into the air filter. Breather hose, I had fitted it to a T in between the throttle bodies to suck in any blow by. This hose comes from the alt., belt housing in front on the engine. I placed a small fuel
filter in line in case any debris comes from the belt, so the throttle bodies are protected.
The biggest obstacle was the battery bax/tray replacement which I made a prototype for my Griso & it works great so far, 3 years. The engine rev's quicker, the plugs look great, performance is great. There is no issues with the O2 sensor, anything with the O2 sensor does not need any remapping of the ECU they are designed to self adjust to all
changes. Some say you will have to remap but for the past 3 years no issues at all with performance or engine issues, just the stupid junk dash from Digitek.
I researched for the K&K air filters, looks as if they done away with the units I am using.
Measurements of the filter(s). Length approx. 101.28mm or 3.987" (4 inches) US
diameter of opening, 50mm or 1.985" (2 inches) US.
diameter of outside filter, 77mm or 3.3" US.
Everything is approximate but very good numbers.
If you want to use their oil filters KN 171. Same filter newer Harley Davidsons use.
Spaceclam
Cruisin' Guzzisti
even after removing just the snorkel on my airbox, it ran like crap.
Dod you have the snorkel and stock airbox lid in place before removing the box completely?
THe snorkel/lid is really the only restrictive thing, and removing it made a BIG difference.
Dod you have the snorkel and stock airbox lid in place before removing the box completely?
THe snorkel/lid is really the only restrictive thing, and removing it made a BIG difference.
Griso Guy
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Hi Dave,
I do not have any photo's of taking the airbox out of the bike. I have photo's of it done which I will try to post Monday.
As for the restrictivness of the airbox. When you get it out open it up. Under the battery is a plate with 4 screws, remove and here you will be able to see and feel how restrictive it is in certain areas. One can hardley get their hand in between sections of the inside chamber. If you follow what I had mentioned you will do fine.
Just make sure you connect up the breather tube to the throttle bodies. Disconnect the stepper motor, it is a piece of junk. Keep the pig tail connected but take out the vacuum lines. I just made a complete loop & I pluged the top vacuum hole. When I first removed the snorkle from the airbox, I honestly never had any issue with performance or running normal. I have heard others state other wise. Try it for yourself. After removal and putting on the K&N filters, no issues at all. What you will need to be worried about is 2 things, 1, the dash. They do go bad from condensation, so is the claim. Believe it, it happens. $887.77 for a Dash. Seal it up tight if you can!! But you must havesome venting holes.
Ignition switch, possible failure with the Immoblizer
DSB 01X Immoblizer failure: Key code read but not recognised,
DSB 02X Immoblizer failure: key code not read, key not present or transponder not working,
DSB 03X Immoblizer failure: Aerial not working, open or short circuited. (This one under Active & Memo).
***(All codes will remain in memory). Run a diagnostic test if any failures. Watch if under Active or Memo(ry). If under memo, you know the code was cleared, but if under active, you know you have an issue.
I must replace my ignition main switch. $280.00
Any problems with anything feel free to ask.
Doug
I do not have any photo's of taking the airbox out of the bike. I have photo's of it done which I will try to post Monday.
As for the restrictivness of the airbox. When you get it out open it up. Under the battery is a plate with 4 screws, remove and here you will be able to see and feel how restrictive it is in certain areas. One can hardley get their hand in between sections of the inside chamber. If you follow what I had mentioned you will do fine.
Just make sure you connect up the breather tube to the throttle bodies. Disconnect the stepper motor, it is a piece of junk. Keep the pig tail connected but take out the vacuum lines. I just made a complete loop & I pluged the top vacuum hole. When I first removed the snorkle from the airbox, I honestly never had any issue with performance or running normal. I have heard others state other wise. Try it for yourself. After removal and putting on the K&N filters, no issues at all. What you will need to be worried about is 2 things, 1, the dash. They do go bad from condensation, so is the claim. Believe it, it happens. $887.77 for a Dash. Seal it up tight if you can!! But you must havesome venting holes.
Ignition switch, possible failure with the Immoblizer
DSB 01X Immoblizer failure: Key code read but not recognised,
DSB 02X Immoblizer failure: key code not read, key not present or transponder not working,
DSB 03X Immoblizer failure: Aerial not working, open or short circuited. (This one under Active & Memo).
***(All codes will remain in memory). Run a diagnostic test if any failures. Watch if under Active or Memo(ry). If under memo, you know the code was cleared, but if under active, you know you have an issue.
I must replace my ignition main switch. $280.00
Any problems with anything feel free to ask.
Doug
Griso Guy
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Dave,
SpaceClam is a great source of info.
Doug
SpaceClam is a great source of info.
Doug
Spaceclam
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Never stuck my hand in there, but it just looked like an open box. Didn't look too restrictive. Now i will have to have a look!
But not until i get back to the states.
Sometimes that stuff is done on purpose, to cause/cancel resonance at certain rpms, or it could just be another one of those things they put on there to make our bikes slow...
IN any case, taking off the airbox top makes a huge difference as well. Taking off the snorkel made a little bit, taking off the whole thing had a drastic effect. When i prototyped them before the PCV was available, it took a perfectly good bike and turned it into a pile of crap. After the PCV (Thanks again, Todd!) It gained a lot above 5k rpm.
GrisoGuy, what's your climate/altitude? unrestricting the intake without the pcv was a step in the wrong direction for me, but i live in LA where it's 80 degrees at 30% humidity, and 500 ft. above sea level.
Also, my bike is a problem child. It isn't completely happy until i run at least 95 octane.
But not until i get back to the states.
Sometimes that stuff is done on purpose, to cause/cancel resonance at certain rpms, or it could just be another one of those things they put on there to make our bikes slow...
IN any case, taking off the airbox top makes a huge difference as well. Taking off the snorkel made a little bit, taking off the whole thing had a drastic effect. When i prototyped them before the PCV was available, it took a perfectly good bike and turned it into a pile of crap. After the PCV (Thanks again, Todd!) It gained a lot above 5k rpm.
GrisoGuy, what's your climate/altitude? unrestricting the intake without the pcv was a step in the wrong direction for me, but i live in LA where it's 80 degrees at 30% humidity, and 500 ft. above sea level.
Also, my bike is a problem child. It isn't completely happy until i run at least 95 octane.
Griso Guy
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Hi SpaceClam,
I purchased the bike in N. Central AZ @ 5200 ft above sea level. Ran great there. Here in PA at maybe 200-400ft above sea level the bike still ran great, had it at sea level ran great. So, I went from 5200' with 30% humidity to 200-400' @ 70-100% humidity and there is no issues.
My only problem is with the brain dead mechanic in N. Central AZ that reroutef & stretched the immobiliz aerial wiring to where I believe forcefully split the wire. I could be wrong but the other Griso's I had seen with tank off the wire went down straight from the ignition switch, this one was really stretched out over the frame rail that crosses behind the switch. It didn't even fit inside the right engine cowl but was coming out too far on top. So I am almost certain that the mechanic had no clue what he was/is doing.
The last Griso owner I spoke with from there was having the increase revving the mechanic still hadn't figured out that the stepper motor was the issue.
Sorry to go on & bad mouth about the dealer there.
I purchased the bike in N. Central AZ @ 5200 ft above sea level. Ran great there. Here in PA at maybe 200-400ft above sea level the bike still ran great, had it at sea level ran great. So, I went from 5200' with 30% humidity to 200-400' @ 70-100% humidity and there is no issues.
My only problem is with the brain dead mechanic in N. Central AZ that reroutef & stretched the immobiliz aerial wiring to where I believe forcefully split the wire. I could be wrong but the other Griso's I had seen with tank off the wire went down straight from the ignition switch, this one was really stretched out over the frame rail that crosses behind the switch. It didn't even fit inside the right engine cowl but was coming out too far on top. So I am almost certain that the mechanic had no clue what he was/is doing.
The last Griso owner I spoke with from there was having the increase revving the mechanic still hadn't figured out that the stepper motor was the issue.
Sorry to go on & bad mouth about the dealer there.
Griso Guy
Cruisin' Guzzisti
My Griso doesn't like the 93 here or 91 there in AZ. I run every once and a while but more often AVGAS 100LL which works just fine. I also, when my AV isn't available, I use 93 with 1 complete bottle of octain boost.
I also use the 100LL in my Ducati.
I also use the 100LL in my Ducati.
Spaceclam
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Perhaps it's just what we call "italian quality control". 
Griso Guy
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Hoover said:Do you have any photo's or drawings?
So I would not need a reflash of the ecu or any remapping?
Hi Dave,
I have not done any computer mods or updates. Mine runs great.
Blowby tube. The blowby tube/line comes in from the front top of the heads, just below the valve cover on the inside. They lead to a small black plastic air chamber than goes back towards the old airbox. (Connect with the new filters on and a T added in between the throttle bodies). The hose coming from the top right of the black chamber leads to the new connection to the T.
When looking at everything, you will do it as if you were on the bike.
