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carbon canister removal?

rebus

rebus

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
104
Hi. I've tried searching the site for this but keep drawing a blank on all my search results lately ( is it a mac thing ?)
I'm running my 08 G1100 with a open air box K&N filter fitted with a Quat D end can and am about to have the new 003 map fitted. I'm thinking of removing the carbon canister also, my question is can anyone point me in the right direction? what would the main benefits be in terms of improvements to the bikes running ?

Many thanks

Stu
 
I did not find that removing the canister had an effect on the way my bike ran (I did not expect it to). I did it to clean up the look of my bike and to reduce the potential for issues to develop. If the canister gets flooded with fuel (like in a fall) it can cause temporary poor running of the bike. But that does not normally happen. I also prefer to simplify the tank venting for the same reason. When the tank vent system is working correctly it is fine, but if it does not vent the tank correctly problems can develop.
 
A leaking line initiated my efforts to remove the canister. However, the greatest benefit for me was the added space underneath the B11 seat.
 
Thanks for the replies,
I did think it might eliminate some of the popping on over run but i guess not by the sound of it. i will leave it in place and see how the new map works out .
Stu
 
For the people who have removed the carbon canister, can you plus tell me which lines need to be left open and which ones need to be plugged? as I would like to remove that big piece of plastic hanging under the bike. Do I need to extend any of the lines?
I just got my Griso 8v
 
cytocycle said:
For the people who have removed the carbon canister, can you plus tell me which lines need to be left open and which ones need to be plugged? as I would like to remove that big piece of plastic hanging under the bike. Do I need to extend any of the lines?
I just got my Griso 8v
Click to expand...

The 2 vent nipples on the back of the tank can be joined w/ a tee connector (As I remember, you'll have one left over) and one hose left running down for overflow and venting. Everything else leading to & from the cannister can be removed

The Number 1 benefit to removing (besides a cleaner look) was it eliminated "Tank Suck" from poor venting. The vacuum on my tank was bad enough it lead to an audible whistling noise from the filler cap and poor starting issues. All is better now with the cannister removed :)

Edit: I neglected to mention the evap also feeds both throttle bodies. Some riders have tied the two TB's together with one hose between them to seal off the connectors using the hose connectors already in place. I removed the fittings on each TB and replaced them with threaded cap screws from the local hardware store to clean up things and isolate the throttle bodies. Keep the hose fittings aside to use later when you need to connect vacuum gauges for balancing throttle bodies. Drop me a pm and I'll take a couple photos for you if needed. :)
 
that's only half the problem. if your tank sucks in air when you open it, it could be your tip valve. Mine used to suck air, and removal of the carbon canister did nothing.
 
Thanks Adrian for the detailed instructions, similar to my Kawasaki but I knew I had to plug something and it's been like 7 years since I did this on my last bike. I'll try to remove that hunk from the side of the motorcycle this week.

Thanks
Chris
 
So are you guys leaving the valve in place from the tank to where the can used to be? I am finding that my hose from the little gray valve is constantly leaking fuel. How are the European versions different from the American issues? Is the entire tank somehow plumbed different? I'm afraid if i plug off the tank vent hose to keep the fuel from leaking that I'll damage my tank or cause my bike to run weird. I should add that i have an 09 1200 8V
 
Did you just block the line off at the tank? This tank does not seem to be vented in anyway besides the carbon can/tip vavle nipple. I don't want to find out what happens if the tank venting is blocked off 500miles away from home with a collapsed tank or a dead fuel pump hehe.

I managed to find a 7x1.0x10mm bolt to screw into the tank where the nipple used to be it looks nice and clean but I'm still leery about the venting issue.
 
The only ones you block off are the lines from the canister to the intake tracts. Those lines you can block off or connect together. The lines from the tank you disconnect from the canister and leave open to the atmosphere. The one way valve you can remove and replace it with a straight through piece. You do not want to block off any lines from the fuel tank.
 
Thank you! I'll post pictures as soon as i get my camera back from my wife lol.
 
Late to this thread, I know; but, I just got a second-hand 2006 Griso 1100 about three weeks ago. It does not have the carbon canister on this bike (based on pics I've seen of other bikes). The problem I am having is not that the tank "sucks" air when you open it. Instead it "blows" air out because the tank is getting pressurized due to high ambient temps. For now, I'm parking with the cap unlocked so I don't come back to gas all over the top of the tank like I did last week. BTW, guess what gasoline does to a plastic tank when it sits there on a hot summer day (I'm bummed!)

Turns out this bike has some warranty left on it and the local dealer has indicated that they will make a warranty claim to get a new tank. But, now I'm worried that they'll realize the previous owner removed the carbon can and will void the claim on that.

Otherwise, this is one awesome scooter! Wow this thing gets up and goes plus it is drop-dead gorgeous. LOVE IT!

Mark
 
Removing the carbon canister has nothing to do with the tank pressurizing. There is a valve in one of the lines from the back of the tank on the right side of the bike. It is a disc shaped device. It is the valve that some people (myself included) remove to stop the tank from pressurizing. Removing the carbon canister should not have caused your issue. The valve is supposed to be there and removing it as well is the only way to stop the issue that I am aware of.
 
I thought that might be the case. I'm just arming myself in case the dealer doesn't want to honor the warranty and replace my damaged tank. They had to do the fuel pump recall, so there is also the possibility that the line might be pinched. I'll let them sort this out. Once the warranty expires, I'll deal with it the proper way like you have.

Thanks!
 
Was this a link to a document that detailed the removal from a Griso? If so, can it be re-posted. This link is broken. :dry:
 
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