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griso - cracked mid pipe and squeaky clutch

tuxracer

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
20
Location
Invergordon, UK
Well since replacing the speedo sensor (drowned first day I had it) and rocker box gaskets (both sides leaked) my Griso has been going like a good un and I've been loving it..........however another couple of issues have cropped up recently.

I was giving the bike a good wash and polish up yesterday and took the heat shield of the mid pipe to give it a clean. I found a hair line crack just where the pipe is welded to the Y piece. It's not too bad and I can get a mate to weld it up just now but wondered if this is common and whether there is any way of stopping it happening again?

The other issue is a squeaky clutch, started about 500 miles ago but has not got any worse. When you pull the clutch in with the engine off, you can hear it - sounds like a dry release bearing or spring. The clutch still works perfectly well and no problems with gears so far. Has anybody else had this happen and is it likely to develop into a bigger problem?
 
Warranty will replace the cracked pipe, if the std muffler is attached. If not you need to have a dealer who is open to graft and coruption.

But it's probably easier to get it welded. Assemble it all loosely, including the headers and move it around to a point where it is sitting without any tension then tighten from the headers working back.
 
No warranty left on my bike as she is an 07 with about 6.5k miles, so I'll get it welded up for now, re-assemble it carefully, then see how it goes. I did phone a few dealers yesterday to see if any of them had a new pipe in stock but none of them kept stock of this part and only one had ordered previously, so maybe it's not that common a problem.
 
actually, it's happened to me twice. My local tech is a twat, so no joy there.

The problem with welding it, is this. The steel is already of poor quality. It's too highly alloyed, poorly mixed, and the welds were done to slowly. Upon welding, the carbon precipitated out of the steel (which you can still see remnants of, actually) leaving you with a stainless VERY high in nickel, chromium, vanadium, and molybdenum. All of these are brittle like glass, and dont mate well to the vibration of a big twin. So even if you weld it up... it will probably just crack again.

Also, it's very thin, and there is a lot of soot on the inside of the pipe. In order to get a good weld, all that must be THOROUGHLY cleaned, and ideally scrubbed behind where the crack is. IF the soot isn't cleaned out, the stainless will draw it up into the weld, contaminate it, and possibly cause it to crack immediately upon cooling. Otherwise, you may have trouble getting a bead of weld to stick, because the contaminants are drawn to the hottest points, or the molten weld pool, and prevent the metal from bonding.

I really like the quality of todd's stuff, i just wish it had a a bend in it like the stock one.

:geek:
 
Spaceclam said:
actually, it's happened to me twice. My local tech is a twat, so no joy there.

The problem with welding it, is this. The steel is already of poor quality. It's too highly alloyed, poorly mixed, and the welds were done to slowly. Upon welding, the carbon precipitated out of the steel (which you can still see remnants of, actually) leaving you with a stainless VERY high in nickel, chromium, vanadium, and molybdenum. All of these are brittle like glass, and dont mate well to the vibration of a big twin. So even if you weld it up... it will probably just crack again.

Also, it's very thin, and there is a lot of soot on the inside of the pipe. In order to get a good weld, all that must be THOROUGHLY cleaned, and ideally scrubbed behind where the crack is. IF the soot isn't cleaned out, the stainless will draw it up into the weld, contaminate it, and possibly cause it to crack immediately upon cooling. Otherwise, you may have trouble getting a bead of weld to stick, because the contaminants are drawn to the hottest points, or the molten weld pool, and prevent the metal from bonding.

I really like the quality of todd's stuff, i just wish it had a a bend in it like the stock one.

:geek:

Ta for the advice regarding the pipe Spaceclam. Getting the existing pipe welded was a short term idea just to keep me on the road until I can get a replacement. I've ordered a replacement and been quoted ten days delivery but I'm not holding my breath...it's August and Italy will be on holiday by now! Failing that I might get a custom link pipe made out of some decent steel. There's an outfit reasonably local to me that does a decent job and none of the stuff he's made for me has over cracked up, so might be the way to go if he's not to busy.

Todd's replacement pipe looks well made but by the time I pay carriage to Scotland and VAT it's going to be pretty expensive.

Cheers

Ian
 
Spaceclam said:
I really like the quality of todd's stuff, i just wish it had a a bend in it like the stock one.

:geek:

Why do you miss the bend?
 
I haven't gotten todd's yet, but in general straight pipes are a little louder, and they kind of bark at you on the over-run. Also, i think the little twist looks nice.

BTW, you may be able to anneal the stainless, if it has hardened. It MIGHT help a little bit. If you can get your hands on a metal furnace, heat it up to 850*c, let the part heat soak for an hour or two, turn the furnace off, and let it cool overnight. The slower it cools the better.

The carbon in the steel is a double edged sword. On one hand, the addition of carbon to the mix reduces the alloy content, softening it. On the other hand, combined with rapid heating and cooling and IRON (found in 400 series stainless, such as what is used with our pipes) it can actually heat treat and become brittle.
 
Whilst out in France I managed to convince myself that the popping on overrun was becoming more prevalent. Started thinking maybe there was a leak somewhere. Sounds like I might need to take a look in that general direction.
 
cyclobutch said:
Whilst out in France I managed to convince myself that the popping on overrun was becoming more prevalent. Started thinking maybe there was a leak somewhere. Sounds like I might need to take a look in that general direction.

If you've gotten the new factory FI map (assuming you have a 8v). Make sure the tech resets the TPS after uploading the new map. I had the new map uploaded at the first service and the bike still popped like a sob. Finally I went back to the dealer a few months later at 4600 miles and had them do a TPS reset and a throttle body sync and bam! Popping on decel has been reduced by ~80%. I'm currently running the stock muffler. Honestly I'm not sure if was the throttle body sync or tps reset that fixed the popping (after the new FI map) but it's made a huge difference.

Back on topic though, does anyone know of a shop that makes replacement pipes with a decent alloy, construction, number of layers so the pipes don't discolor for the Griso?
 
Add one more (me) to the cracked mid pipe list. Same deal, took off the mid pipe cover to polish it up (because the PO or his tech had pinched the left side valve cover gasket and it painted my boot and the pipe with oil on a long trip).

So that replacement GT-Rx piece does look top notch (I know the CFO will not be happy when I tell her how much I want to spend :shock: ). I really want the right side exhaust setup so I can enjoy the look of that rear wheel. Can you get the GT-Rx mid pipe by itself for the right side exhaust? I like the look of the CF Mistral instead of the shiny cannister.
 
Legato said:
So that replacement GT-Rx piece does look top notch (I know the CFO will not be happy when I tell her how much I want to spend :shock: ). I really want the right side exhaust setup so I can enjoy the look of that rear wheel. Can you get the GT-Rx mid pipe by itself for the right side exhaust? I like the look of the CF Mistral instead of the shiny cannister.
If you're referring to the Mistral below, it won't be an easy fit because of the bend and bracket. If you want to send it to us, we can probably modify it to work (outside of the hanger bracket).
Also, I've had no takers on either left or right side mounts with my carbon muffler shown at the bottom.

Ping me direct e-mail if interested; Todd at GuzziTech.com

mg09.jpg


GTRxNS12CF.jpg
 
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