• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

NorgECU removal/disconnecting the "blue" and "brown connec"

afulldeck

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Messages
114
Looking for some help. I am not a mechanic and I don't have much experience with bikes, however, I do understand electrical work. I'm trying to track down why my 2007 Norge isn't starting. I believe its an electrical problem. And I've been trying to track it down. (It might be an ECU issue).

Important to know that my fuel pump does work. We mounted the gas tank on another bike and it ran perfectly.

Now back to my bike.

I've tested the individual relays they all work on their own. All the relays when the control coil is activated they close the switch portion of the relay. I tested them all (primary Injection, auxiliary, ignition and even the lights). With the relays inside the Norge, I:

a) cannot start the bike with the starter button (hint that the ECU would be involved)
i) when I took to the starter button apart, it seemed to open and close correctly, but to truly test it I need to test pin "28" on the ECU to see what signal is provide. Getting to the ECU is another big issue.
b) I should also note, that the primary relay comes on when the key is turn to power. So I believe power is at the starter switch
c) When I close the control circuit on the ignition relay by grounding the Pin "1" side, the bike turns over
there is no spark though......also pointing to an ECU issue
d) I've check all the sensors (clutch, Neutral, side stand) they seem to open and close correctly. (I just don't know what signal is present at the ecu pins.

Is there something else I should have checked?

Now, I have stripped the fairing off, disconnected the lights, removed the gas tank, and am now looking to both disconnect the connectors to the ecu and remove the ecu from its very tight spot. So far, I have spent 2 or more hours trying either to remove the ECU or disconnect either of the two connectors. I just don't understand how to get that damn thing out? Any ideas, pointer or pictures of someone removing it from the Norge?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Hang on I've got some pics, back soon!

Here it is, you can see how the clip engages and disengages in the pics. It's a bugger for sure.
 

Attachments

  • mikec_pcvinstall0001.jpg
    mikec_pcvinstall0001.jpg
    119.5 KB · Views: 319
  • mikec_pcvinstall0002.jpg
    mikec_pcvinstall0002.jpg
    122 KB · Views: 319
  • mikec_pcvinstall0003.jpg
    mikec_pcvinstall0003.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 319
MIke, It looks like the clips to lock the connector in place are behind the round part (ie) towards the middle of the ecu. Do you push the locks inwards to unlock the clip? I have some work to do to get that ECU out. I just don't believe how tight it is...amazing.
 
The clips are identical in operation to the clip holding the dash board connector in place - except that you can see the dashboard connector so it's a good place to look and get a feel for how they operate. They are a PITA to get at but it can be done. Cursing helps!

Cheers
 
Back
Top