V7Classic oil level check

[foggy95]

Having recently had my 1st service carried out on my V7 Classic, and after riding an additional 400 miles, I thought I should check the engine oil level. Well, surprised to see that it does not even reach the bottom of the dipstick! This was with a cold engine. Next step, come in the house and read the manual...engine should be warm. So, go out into the driveway, start er up, let it idle with a few revs thrown in, for about ten minutes. Engine now at operating temp.

Let it sit in an upright position for 5-10 minutes - so the engine is 'warm'. - Still no reading on the dipstick. I'm confused on a couple of points:
1) Wouldn't there be more oil in the sump with a cold engine? I would think the more time the oil had to return to the sump after running, the measurement would be increased.
2) My oil or check engine lights never came on - so now I am wondering how low I actually am. I know the total capacity is only 1.8 qts, so I may try adding 1/4 - 1/2 qt and see what happens. Also, I plan on doing another complete oil change myself, then add exactly 1.8 qts, and seeing where on the dipstick that indicates.

Anyone else having or had similar experience?

added later: since I have to ride the bike tomorrow about 200 miles, I don't want to take the chance of harming the engine due to low oil .. I'm looking at the owners manual for the V7 Classic (page 129) my dipstick does not look at all like the illustration. Mine does not have two hash marks, but rather an inch long flat section with the 'x' pattern stamped in. Within that pattern, about 1/4 inch up from the end is one hash mark, then the rest of that flattened section is about 3/4 inches. I added enough oil, about 10 oz, to bring the indicated level up into that section just above the hash mark, and below where the flat section ends. Tomorrow I will do an oil and filter change, then add exactly 1.8 qts, and check my level, both hot and cold, for future reference. If anyone's still reading at this point, thanks for listening!

 

[john zibell]

We understand venting. Be sure to keep a close eye on the oil level. Small Blocks are prone to early failure due to low oil level. I've never been a fan of checking oil "hot", but I'm an old guy who grew up with farm equipment that was checked with a cold engine before you even started the engine.

 

[ItalianSpiderman]

My dipstick is like yours as well - no upper hash mark even though the picture in the owners manual clearly shows one. I think I read the reason for checking the oil with the engine warmed up is that the oil 'expands' when hot and thus raises the level. I'm with you in thinking this would be easily offset by the oil that hasn't had time to drain back into the sump. One can only assume that with the MG air cooled engine, hot oil makes it back into the sump rather quickly.

I guess without these odd quirks it wouldn't be a Moto Guzzi and there wouldn't be a need to search three or four forums for information!

 

[cvcaelen]

Having recently had my 1st service carried out on my V7 Classic, and after riding an additional 400 miles, I thought I should check the engine oil level. Well, surprised to see that it does not even reach the bottom of the dipstick! This was with a cold engine. Next step, come in the house and read the manual...engine should be warm. So, go out into the driveway, start er up, let it idle with a few revs thrown in, for about ten minutes. Engine now at operating temp.

Let it sit in an upright position for 5-10 minutes - so the engine is 'warm'. - Still no reading on the dipstick. I'm confused on a couple of points:
1) Wouldn't there be more oil in the sump with a cold engine? I would think the more time the oil had to return to the sump after running, the measurement would be increased.
2) My oil or check engine lights never came on - so now I am wondering how low I actually am. I know the total capacity is only 1.8 qts, so I may try adding 1/4 - 1/2 qt and see what happens. Also, I plan on doing another complete oil change myself, then add exactly 1.8 qts, and seeing where on the dipstick that indicates.

Anyone else having or had similar experience?

added later: since I have to ride the bike tomorrow about 200 miles, I don't want to take the chance of harming the engine due to low oil .. I'm looking at the owners manual for the V7 Classic (page 129) my dipstick does not look at all like the illustration. Mine does not have two hash marks, but rather an inch long flat section with the 'x' pattern stamped in. Within that pattern, about 1/4 inch up from the end is one hash mark, then the rest of that flattened section is about 3/4 inches. I added enough oil, about 10 oz, to bring the indicated level up into that section just above the hash mark, and below where the flat section ends. Tomorrow I will do an oil and filter change, then add exactly 1.8 qts, and check my level, both hot and cold, for future reference. If anyone's still reading at this point, thanks for listening!

Hi,
have you seen this:

https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/202/2572.html

happy reading

Christiaan

 

[icenian]

... I thought I should check the engine oil level ... looking at the owners manual for the V7 Classic (page 129) my dipstick does not look at all like the illustration. Mine does not have two hash marks, but ... one hash mark

Yes, my V7C too. But that's not the only uncertainty.

Do you screw the dipstick in, or just rest it on the top of the threads? The owners manual says one thing, and the workshop manual says the other!

I've settled on keeping the oil a bit above the mark, with the dipstick resting on the threads. That is the level I see after filling with the regulation amount after a change, though that isn't a perfect guide, as it's hard to drain 100% of the old oil out.

My oil or check engine lights never came on

Do you mean, it didn't come on whilst riding? Or, it isn't lighting up at all?

If the oil light never lights up at all -- even when the dash lights up like a christmas tree when you first switch the ignition on -- then something is wrong with the light (though it's an LED so it shouldn't be likely).

If the oil light comes on for a few seconds, then goes out (along with the other lights) even though the engine isn't running, that's a bad oil pressure switch (quite likely). See here:
https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic.html?f=202&t=5148&start=0

BTW, I found out that when the oil pressure circuit is closed, the red light comes on and remains on until reset by turning the ignition off for a while. This is supposed to ensure that you notice it, but it could mean that a momentary fault leaves you with a light that's on. This is annoying if you soak it during overenthusiastic washing, as you get a spurious low oil pressure warning that won't go away unless you pull over and stop!

 

[Guzzimundi]

I went through the same uncertainties long ago with my Breva 750. Same engine, same oil, same capacity. I was constantly paranoid as my bike used oil in the beginning. Ended up mounting a Sumspacer to add more oil so that now I have 2.7 liters and just forget about it from oil change to oil change. Now I just make sure it’s between the middle of the stick hash marks and the low mark. Remember I now have an extra liter. And it isn’t good to overfill. Haven’t had a problem since. But do watch it as these engines run very hot and can drink a little oil.

 

[ItalianSpiderman]

Unless I've missed something, my understanding is that the sump spacer does not lower the oil pump pick-up any - so you can still starve your engine with plenty left in the sump. The sump spacer may deepen the oil level and give you more oil volume, but it won't do you much good if it doesn't get to the oil pump. I'm a newbie here so any information on this would be appreciated!

 

[NOLAGuzzi]

Sump capacity is 1.8L not quarts.
1.8 quarts = 1.7 or so L. You would be under filling to begin with. Maybe 100 ml makes no difference but I figure that oil is good to have.

Remember to pull both sump drains when you change the oil, drain out everything, put in the correct measured amount of oil, heat bike up, check oil, then make your own mark on the dipstick.

 

[sign216]

Unless I've missed something, my understanding is that the sump spacer does not lower the oil pump pick-up any - so you can still starve your engine with plenty left in the sump. The sump spacer may deepen the oil level and give you more oil volume, but it won't do you much good if it doesn't get to the oil pump. I'm a newbie here so any information on this would be appreciated!

Spider, the oil pickup is in the sump bottom plate, so when extended, you do have extra oil to draw from. I don't have a sump spacer. I have one on a BMW, and I've found it just adds extra weight and extra oil to change. But I keep a pretty close eye on my smallblock oil, because it is an issue.

Joe