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Handlebars for Griso?

armogida

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
25
How is everyone? I am new here and wanted to say Hi before I jumped into my question! LOL

I just purchased a 07 Griso which is fantastic. I have put on a GT-RX slip on which looks and sounds perfect! I also removed the charcoal canister which seemd to have taken care of the high idle. I have only put a couple hundred miles on it since it is now winter here in PA. but I get out weather permitting.

I did a search before I posted this quesion but came up wanting. I feel the stock handle bars are too wide. I am considering either cutting and inch or two off each end or just buying a new pair (I am leaning toward the new pair). Has Any one put on a narrower set that is not higher and farther back than the stock bars? I honestly feel narrower and a bit lower would be perfect. I am about 5-09 with good reach. Any opinions are appreciated.
 
Thanks for the reply and those look great! Could you tell me if they are a direct bolt on for teh clamps, throttle and levers or do I need something else?
 
armogida said:
Thanks for the reply and those look great! Could you tell me if they are a direct bolt on for teh clamps, throttle and levers or do I need something else?

They are a direct bolt on to the clamps, but you will have to drill for all controls. The thickness of the bars are very good. You would need to use your current bars as templates. But again, be mindful, they are much narrower and you can run out of space quickly if you don't plan for it. I recommend a full mock up before you start drilling.
 
Here is a pic to give you an idea of how tight things are:
 

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SLS Superbike bars from Speigler (sp) here, 2 inches narrower and just a little more sweep, same rise. Silver anodized look nice, colour matches up with the rest of the bike. No cable mods needed.
Peter
 
NeroGuzzi said:
armogida said:
Thanks for the reply and those look great! Could you tell me if they are a direct bolt on for teh clamps, throttle and levers or do I need something else?

They are a direct bolt on to the clamps, but you will have to drill for all controls. The thickness of the bars are very good. You would need to use your current bars as templates. But again, be mindful, they are much narrower and you can run out of space quickly if you don't plan for it. I recommend a full mock up before you start drilling.


Thanks again but I don't understand when you say "drill for controls'. I've switched bars on a lot of bikes and never had to drill anything. Could you elaborate?
 
goozy said:
SLS Superbike bars from Speigler (sp) here, 2 inches narrower and just a little more sweep, same rise. Silver anodized look nice, colour matches up with the rest of the bike. No cable mods needed.
Peter


Thanks Goozy. When you say sweep do you mean they come back toward you more? I want a bar a bit lower and narrower, definitely not pulled torward me more. Thanks for the help.
 
armogida said:
Thanks again but I don't understand when you say "drill for controls'. I've switched bars on a lot of bikes and never had to drill anything. Could you elaborate?

The switchgear used on these bikes has a locator peg that goes into a small hole drilled in the bar. The other alternative is to remove the peg with a dremel or whatever and then wind the bar with tape to ensure that when the screws are tightened the switchblock won't move on the bar. Getting it right and drilling is IMHO a better option.

If you want narrower and pre-drilled the bars off the 8VG are a bit narrower. Also Aprilia Mana bars have been used by some. I have them on my Mana, (Not unsurprisingly) and yes, they are narrower and have a slightly greater inward bend.

Pete
 
You can easily trim the existing bars depending how much narrower you want them to be. Easily done with decent hacksaw and a bit of patience, clean up the edge with a file, that's what id did with a satisfactory result.
I should mention this was on an 8v model but I assume it would me much the same for the 1100 models.
This is the cheapest option and you can always get a set of after market bars latter on.
Check the depth of the internal threads if you wish to retain the standard bar anti-vibe weight mounting nuts which will depend on how much you cut off.
Keep in mind that you need to retain enough space to allow the levers, switch blocks and grips to fit because if you go to far you will hit the bend and the different bar taper.
Once you work out where you are moving the switch block to you can easily dril an appropriately sized hole in the new position to locate the switch block.

Mark
 
pete roper said:
The other alternative is to remove the peg with a dremel or whatever and then wind the bar with tape to ensure that when the screws are tightened the switchblock won't move on the bar.

No need for a dremel, just a small pair of vicegrips and haul 'em out like a rotten tooth.

The Mana bars have holes for the switchblocks, but these didn't work when I installed Mana bars on my 1200 Sport. I didn't need any tape.
 
Try Renthal. They do a range of widths/sweep/rise ETC in their Fatbars. You will need to fit new bar ends and either drill the bars for the control pins or remove them ( mine just pulled out with a good pair of pliers )

Stu
 
Pastrana FMX work about 1" shorter each side and just fits all the switchgear in.
 
I just installed a Pro Taper " Raptor" In the matt silver finish. Drilled holes for the control nubs and cut off about 1 1/4 inch from each side (they have trim guides on the bar ends) also didnt need longer cables which was really nice. I'll have to rig up a new way to connect the bar ends but that shouldnt be much of a problem.

70 dollars well spent as its much more comfortable for my 6'3". Pullback is better and the bars are higher with much less width. Raptor has another bar called the Pastrana that a lot of folks have used but I went with the Raptor because it was higher with the better pulback.
 
Thanks for all the great input guys! I have some tinking to do. Do the bar end weights really make a big difference and does any one run without them? Is vibration an issue?
 
I'm thinking about fitting clip ons to mine.
Here's something I found on the internet.
Any thoughts ?

 
Pretty tight against the wings for parking lot turns. The GRiSOs just aren't set up for clip ons in my opinion.
 
It's clear the forks have to be dropped through the yokes a couple of inches for these bars.
I suspect that would sharpen up the steering as well.
I'd certainly like to try them.
 
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