• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oil Filter doesn't come loose (Norge)

germanguy

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
4
Just got a brand new 09 Norge. Did my 620 Miles break in and now I want to change the oil. The oil filter is in a manhole so I got the end cap style wrench. Broke the first wrench. Oil filter will not spin. Bought new wrenches (8 & 14 Flute) they spin on the filter. Bought an universal 3 jaw wrench, slips on the filter. Tried it engine warm & cold. Anybody any idea what to try next?
 
Some have had success by using sandpaper between the wrench and the filter. I'd put the grit side toward the filter. Also a cast metal wrench would have better success than a pressed one. If you have the 14 flute filter I'd try the OEM BMW (old style) filter wrench. Also that wrench is a perfect fit for the Bosh 3330 which is a recommended replacement for the UFI. Once you get it off, the torque specification for the new filter is 15Nm.
 
If it won't budge? Just drop the pan. Yes, I know that the whole point of an externally accessible filter is that you shouldn't have to drop the pan but its so easy it isn't worth getting a wad in yer dacks over. Just be sure to buy a new sump gasket before you drop the sump as the original one will almost certainly break. 14 bolts around the outside and four up in the filter cavity, you can feel the channels in the sump casting to tell you where they are. All are 5mm allen bolts. You have to drop the breather return pipe too but once the sump is off you can just get a conventional filter wrench on the blessed thing and twist it off.

Make sure when you install the new one you don't over-tighten it and oil the filter gasket before installation.

Pete
 
pete roper said:
If it won't budge? Just drop the pan. Yes, I know that the whole point of an externally accessible filter is that you shouldn't have to drop the pan but its so easy it isn't worth getting a wad in yer dacks over. Just be sure to buy a new sump gasket before you drop the sump as the original one will almost certainly break. 14 bolts around the outside and four up in the filter cavity, you can feel the channels in the sump casting to tell you where they are. All are 5mm allen bolts. You have to drop the breather return pipe too but once the sump is off you can just get a conventional filter wrench on the blessed thing and twist it off.

Make sure when you install the new one you don't over-tighten it and oil the filter gasket before installation.

Pete

Pete: Does the filter stays put when when you drop the pan?

Thanx
Juergen
 
john zibell said:
Some have had success by using sandpaper between the wrench and the filter. I'd put the grit side toward the filter. Also a cast metal wrench would have better success than a pressed one. If you have the 14 flute filter I'd try the OEM BMW (old style) filter wrench. Also that wrench is a perfect fit for the Bosh 3330 which is a recommended replacement for the UFI. Once you get it off, the torque specification for the new filter is 15Nm.

Thanks for your reply: I put a shop rag in the wrench and then it broke. i will check out the BMW wrench.

Juergen
 
germanguy said:
Pete: Does the filter stays put when when you drop the pan?

Thanx
Juergen

Yup. Filter screws to the spacer and this is held in place by four more screws so you simply undo the ones around the outside of the sump (14 in all.) and then there are four more up beside the filter. While the pic isn't very clear you can probably see from this gif from the parts site.

GU08900_41.gif


Pete
 
That is a very useful photo Phang. Thanks.

The motor is sitting on its bell-housing and the two oil pick-ups can be clearly seen. The round 'Disc' with a hole in it is the pick-up for the lubrication, low volume, high pressure side. It sits in a sort of dish in the sump casting with a dam around the back to help prevent exposure under high accelerative loads. The 'Tubular' gauze filter is the pick up for the high volume, low pressure, pump. this isn't nearly as important in terms of pick-up. If the cooling pump pick-up is exposed momentarily then there is more than enough 'Mass' in the bits being cooled by the oil for a brief interuption to the flow to be of little import. The 'Lubrication' side though is a different matter entirely. Even a brief interuption to the flow on this side is likely to be terminal to plain bearings.

As to its pertinance to this thread if you look at the photo you can clearly see the two bolts that retain the sump spacer at the top centre of the pic. the two lower ones are visible between the filter and the pressure side oil strainer. It's these that mean that you can easily drop the sump without having to worry about disturbing the gasket betwixt spacer and crankcase.

It's a neat and compact little system that works well on the whole. Now if they could get UFI to weld a nut on the end of the filter like K&N do all would be peachy!!!

Pete
 
Pete, if I have a leak around the filter then what would be the main culprit? I had the same leak early on on my 08 Norge and the dealer I had told me (at the time; spring 09) that there was a recall on the oil pan. It was supposedly wrongly machined around the filter location. As it was in for its (second time, long story) first service, he said he would do it and surely, after that it didn't leak. But the last three oil changes proved that wrong as I could not stop the leak. It's not bad, simply annoying. I'm going to try another filter brand (Bosch if I can find them here) first.
 
Never heard about any problem with the spacer casting and that is what the filter gasket seals to. There was talk of some UFI filters not seating correctly due to their threads being poorly cut. That to me would be the most likely culprit. Try using another filter. Anything but the FRAM.

Pete
 
the Bosch 3330? too lazy to look it up.. cured the problem on my Norge. Should be available anywhere Toyotas are sold, which I assume is everywhere. :D
edit: yeah, it's the 3330.
 
Chuck in Indiana said:
the Bosch 3330? too lazy to look it up.. cured the problem on my Norge. Should be available anywhere Toyotas are sold, which I assume is everywhere. :D
edit: yeah, it's the 3330.

exactly what I did as well....
never looked back
 
Back
Top