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Norge refuses to start when warm

Z

zebee

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Messages
61
At the moment, I'm just commuting. 40 min ride to work, park, 40 min ride home.

Sometimes I stop to shop on the way home, and frequently the Noggie will refuse to start! Lights all work, fuel pump starts, no starter noise.

If I wait till the bike has cooled down, it starts.

I've tried reseating all fuses, and replaced a dodgy one, no go. Tightened all connections, no go.

It doesn't do it every single time, but enough that it's damned annoying! (Of course the time it didn't do it was when I took it to Dave Ward to have a look!)

Any ideas as to what it might be?
 
Did you clean the battery and starter connections before tightening? You might have some oxidation on the terminals and the heat increases resistance just enough to not allow the starter to go. I has a similar problem, turned out to the the starter solenoid.
Another time is was dust build up in a Valeo starter, just blew it out with compress air to fix it. But that starter was about 14 years old.
 
Battery all done, and I think Dave did the starter when he did a service. (After transporting the bike from the side of the road where it had refused to start even when *I* was bloody cold!)

It's done it once after it refused to not start for Dave, and been OK since then. I still don't trust it...
 
Thanks for the link Brian, I'll have to take the laptop down to the bike and see if I can work out the areas they are talking about.

Looks like it might need a fairing strip, ugh.
 
Just the lowers to access the starter itself, and the small sidecover below the seat on the RH side to access the relays.

If you don't do the wiring job to the starter, you don't have to worry about removing the lowers. I increased the gauge of the wire powering the starter solenoid, and never missed a start, even after the bike sitting for a couple of weeks.
I had the exact same symptoms as you, no start when hot, ok after cooling down.
 
baloches said:
Just the lowers to access the starter itself, and the small sidecover below the seat on the RH side to access the relays.

If you don't do the wiring job to the starter, you don't have to worry about removing the lowers.
Click to expand...
To just rewire the start relay all you have to remove is the RH upper panel, one screw. Couldn't be easier.
Remove yellow wire from start relay, replace with similar wire direct to battery positive, preferably with a 15A fuse in between.
 
For some reason I've found some of the threads on this subject (by the guys who pioneered the fix) to be confusing.

So I started one that includes a very basic description for people like ME.

wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=43725.40

That brings you into Page 2 where I discuss how I actually went about the uber-easy install.
 
Rather belated followup...

The relay wiring fix did the job. It's started like a good little bike since then.

Funny, I have had to do a similar fix on my loopframe and on my 850T! You'd think they'd have sorted it in 30 years, wouldn't you.
 
I also had to do the V50, and the Spada III. Also did a Cali 1100i for the same reason.
Yes they do seem to have their collective heads buried in the sand (or worse :eek: ).
 
Is all of this not what kevm mentions above and what has been the subject of several (rather lengthy) threads, with the "startus interruptus" one offering a "Fix for Dummies" (like me :roll: ) approach, https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic.html?f=188&t=7161&p=53670&hilit=startus#p53670?

I'd have bought one of those MPH gizmos had Wayne Orwig not made the fix for me, tho I might have been tempted to try kevm's DIY approach.

Bill

P.S. My brother had Riders Hill do the fix, then had to call for roadside assistance yesterday when his B11 would not start. Shoddy work by RH? Nah ... bro left key on overnight. :woohoo:
 
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