• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Spark Plug Boots?

sohcfour

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
41
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I posted this in the thread "Intermittent Firing on Single Cylinder"... I apologize for the duplicate...

I have two of the problems mentioned in this thread. #1, I have poor combustion and hesitation at low loads, and #2, terrible fuel econ in the low 30mpg range.

My 09 8V should have the latest map (068) as well as TB balance and cam recall as I left it at Rosefarm this spring for just that.

I tested the plug caps with the squirt bottle method and unfortunately that was inconclusive. I do have a set of the recommended NGK plug caps coming today, anyway.

A couple questions, then. Should I install the NGK caps anyway, out of precaution? If so, I think I need to clip an inch off the plug wire, right? Anything else I should be looking for as the culprit?

Matt
 
Update: I was letting the bike warm up while I put my gear on tonight, and I could hear an occasional cracking noise. Turns out, when I looked in the plug hole, I could see the spark jumping from the boot to the head. Strangely, I can't see any damage on the boot that would cause this.

At any rate, it seems I should replace my boots. Can anyone confirm that I need to cut a short portion off of the plug wire due to the screw-type construction of the NGK boot?

- Matt
 
sohcfour said:
Can anyone confirm that I need to cut a short portion off of the plug wire due to the screw-type construction of the NGK boot?
Yes, cut a small portion off, and thread the new ones on. I have a few left for anyone in need of them. $5/per.
 
I can't quite close the loop on this yet because our weather has been to lousy to ride, however...

I cut off the end 1/2in of the plug wires and installed the SB05E NGK plug caps described elsewhere on the board. The bike fired right up and settled in to a good steady idle. I certainly didn't hear/see the zapping which I saw with the OE parts installed.

Strangely, I took a better look at the OE parts and can't see anything that would have indicated there was a problem. Oh well. I can't wait to have a chance to take a ride.
 
I got a chance to ride to work today. Short ride but a lot of low speed and low load. The bike seemed much happier. Good consistent performance compared to the stumbling and popping before. I am still puzzled at why the spark was jumping from undamaged stock boots but for $10 I can't complain too badly.

More riding will determine if it improves my 30mpg average!
 
They use resistor plugs and resistor caps. The electrons will have apretty good incentive to try and find an alternative route to earth. I too have seen sparks arcing to th head from seemingly undamaged caps. At the end of the day the boots are a fragile pain in the arse. The NGK items are a much better bet.

Pete
 
I believe the NGK SB05E are also marked as 5k-ohm aren't they? Are they just made from a more stout material? Is there an inherent need for a combined 10k-ohm resistance in the ignition system... radio interference, basic system performance, etc?
 
Only got about 1800 now after buying it at 1100mi. Kind of a blah summer for riding. I did head over for the Crud Run. A couple weeks ago a friend, my wife and I rode all 3 bikes from my signature up to RA for the AHRMA races. And in july im taking the Griso on the ferry to ride to Vintage Days at Mid O. But my commute is 3mi and I spread my riding over 3 bikes so the miles are slow to rack up!
 
Back
Top