removing rear wheel without factory stand

[grimace]

So I picked up a puncture and need a new tire. Rear wheel removal looks straight forward. Looks like remove exhaust, remove wheel bolt cover, undue bolts and remove wheel? Problem is I don't have the factory work stand. I do have one of the craftsmen style motorcycle lifts. Has anyone ever used one of these to remove the rear wheel? Pic?
this is the kind I have but don't know if it will work on the guzzi griso.

 

[grimace]

went out and played around with the jack. If I put it under the oil pan it just lifts the front. If I put it just under the rear brake mounting point it lifts the rear wheel just enough for removal and front wheel and side stand are touching ground. Another spot was under the rear shock, a little wobbly there but front wheel and side stand on the ground. Are these points sturdy enough? Just got replacing the side where the mount point for rear brake and it is pricey. Thoughts?

 

[Will]

I tried a similar bike lift with my Griso and it doesn't work for removing the rear wheel. The centre of gravity is too far back so with the lift under the sump only the front wheel comes off the ground. I used a trolley jack under the rear shock instead. That worked fine but I did loosen the wheel & caliper bolts before jacking it up and let it down again before torquing them up. As it is a bit wobbly I hang the bike with a ratchet strap over a roof beam in the garage for extra security.

 

[john zibell]

If you don't have a lift table, the better technique would be to get something like this http://www.discountramps.com/aluminum-m ... -chock.htm With the front wheel captured and bike tied to the chock you can lift the rear of the bike with a jack to change the rear wheel. Conversely for a front, back the bike it to do the chock.

 

[Kid Thunder]

I have an Termi muffler & it doesn't have to be removed. Put it on before I had to changer the rear tire. Does the stock muffler have to be removed to pull the rear wheel?

 

[Phang]

I am still running on stock tires/tyres.

It looks like I can just tilt the wheel a little and roll it out from the rear :mrgreen:

Hi grimace, I came across this photo posted by "uncle" in wildguzzi forum.

 

[grimace]

Thanks for the pic. I do have one of those car jacks lying around too.

 

[john zibell]

Thanks for the pic. I do have one of those car jacks lying around too.

I hope you noticed the front wheel chock. I wouldn't jack it up like that without one.

 

[Ad B]

Hi,

like G12 colleague Phang, I use a Becker-Technik stand.
I have no picture of my G 12 without wheels, sorry.
I have recently (last week) put a new set of tires onto my G12.
Like on the picture, I use that Becker stand + a mechanical jack under the engine to lift the wheels.
(there is always a very, very tiny risc using hydraulics...)
It was no problem at all to remove my wheels.
of course, I did this inside my garage... not in my garden...
What you can't see on the picture is the rear wheel guard (hugger) on my bike... still no problem.

Ad B

 

[mickyvee_2010]

I took my G12 to the dealer last week for a new tyre, and I watched how they did it. They used a purpose built jack that lifted the rear wheel up. I think it mounted near the footpegs, though I didn't really take much notice. Sorry. Anyway, the wheel came out with the (stock) silencer still in place. I did notice a complete lack of any grease on the bolts, or inside the hub. It's got some in there now though! Oh, and the caliper has to be removed as well!

 

[Penis Rotor]

Why would you put grease on the hub or bolts? Do you grease the studs and hubs of your car's wheels?Sounds like a recipe for a loose wheel with a slippery tyre to me.

Pete

 

[Kid Thunder]

Don't remove the muffler unless you have to. The gasket that goes in the muffler & over the pipe is made out of a leaded type material & is easy to damage & also cost over $30(US)to replace! Mine got damaged getting it out of the stock muffler to put into the Termi.

 

[Phang]

Why would you put grease on the hub or bolts? Do you grease the studs and hubs of your car's wheels?Sounds like a recipe for a loose wheel with a slippery tyre to me.

Pete

I realized there are two camps of thought when it comes to wheel bolts greasing. One who swear by keeping them lubed and the other install them dry.

I use torque wrench to fasten wheel bolts and I believe greasing the bolts will result in over torquing

Phang

 

[Ad B]

Hi,

I use torque wrench to fasten wheel bolts and I believe greasing the bolts will result in over torquing

Phang

I think that's incorrect.
Without a tiny layer of grease it's possible that the bolt stops turning too early, because you need the power to turn bare metal to bare metal.
With a bit of grease bolts won't come loose by itself. Dirty bolts will.
With a bit of grease, the bolts won't corrode, it's easier to take them apart again.
It's possible non greased bolts can corrode, can get difficult to take them out with the possibility that they will break.

Other example, our car...
The first time I did a change for wheels with winter tires, I couldn't get the alloy wheels with summer tires of the hub. Corrosion.
I was fighting and hammering (!!) for over an hour to get them of. So I use a tiny layer of grease.
Now it's a 15 minutes job :whistle: .

I'm a "greasy" boy for over 35 years and oké, my Harley díd remove a few bolts of its own.
But "non greasy" friends needed lots of new fasteners... and lost parts...
And I don't use much...
One pot ( 500gr) of normal grease (bearings, axels, ...) 5 to 10 years.
Tube (70 gr) copper grease (bolts, hot things, ...) I think, 10 years.

Ad B

 

[Phang]

Clicker type torque wrenches are tripped by the reaction torque generated by friction of the fastener.

Torque figures in service manual always referring to dry fastener unless otherwise specified.

A lubed fastener will generated less friction and trips a clicker type torque wrench at a higher clamping force.

I think in most cases, lubing the fasteners, especially when the lubricant is used sparingly, will not do any harm as the slight over torquing fastener still remain within the margins of the fastener and the parts that it hold together.

Some fasteners are stretched very close to the elastic limit, e.g. a mere 33% over torquing had deformed the wheel bolt of this BMW motorcycle.

I am a paranoid person, I replaced the wheel bolts of my BMW R1150R (bought it used) with new bolts when I found traces of anti seize on them :mrgreen:

Old bolts

New bolts

Phang

 

[grimace]

Just got it all buttoned up. Came off pretty easily. Used the smaller car jack under the swingarm to the right of the rear shock, side stand and front tire as balancing points. had to deflate tire to get it under the rear fender, later I cut off the tip of the fender for reinstall. Took off the rear caliper to make it easier to align when mounting thee wheel. Only slightly harder to take off than a car wheel, love not having a chain on this bike!