• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Safety Wiring Fasteners

Bill Hagan

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
1,708
Location
Above Pott's Camp along Braddock's route, Virginia
I told about installing some farkles on the Griso in my thread about being "Garage-Bound in Milan," https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/post/quote.html?f=163&p=60605.

Chicago Mark commented, "[M]ake sure you safety wire the three screws that secure the Skidmarx rear hugger."

I started to respond there, but thought I'd do another thread as this issue is broader.

The reality is I'll probably never get my Guzzis on a track. But, I have had parts fall off, and the Norge's hugger, identical to the one on the Griso, has had a fastener go AWOL.

So, I went on the Pro-Bolt US website to order the same fasteners that came with the hugger, but in "safety wire" versions.

Holy Mandello, you could swab the OEM bolts with red Loctite lots cheaper than the $8-9 each plus shipping for the racing-spec fasteners. Plus, kind of a PITA to figure out right one. After my recent $30 fastener search for the maintenance stand, I am wary of exploring, via UPS, the full range of race-spec bolts.

More importantly, is this really necessary? On the Norge, it was hard to take a look at the hugger's fastening points, and I found out I was boinked when I saw the hugger listing to port on the tire. Thankfully, neither hugger nor tire suffered any damage from that. The Griso is much easier to eyeball for loosening of fasteners. So, while safety wired stuff looks cool, I am inclined to go with Mr. Red Loctite unless hooted down by you all in the bleachers.

Thanks.

Bill
 
Well, all you gotta do is drill a hole in the head for the safety wire, but I'll bet that you don't have a drill press (or know how to use it :shock: ;) ) in the frozen nawth.
I'd just use blue (removable) loc tite, you might want to remove those fasteners without a blow torch some day..
 
If the bolts are long enough, you can double nut on the end. When you turn one nut against the other, neither is going to move. We would do this on the farm with implements, and after a couple seasons everything was rusted solid and would never move again :mrgreen:
 
john zibell said:
If the bolts are long enough, you can double nut on the end.
Been doing this for years too . . . last time was the exhaust hanger bolt on the Griso.
 
Back
Top