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Stelvio Dead - Troubleshooting Help

dugkim

Just got it firing!
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
18
Guys, pulled into the garage after a great day riding and shut the bike off and immediately remembered that I failed to hit the glove box button to retrieve my cell phone. Proceeded to turn the key back on, shift to neutral and hit the button but it didn't pop open. Played with neutral, kickstand, pulling in clutch, cycling the key...nothing. Attempted to start the bike and heard only the relay sound coming from the auxiliary fuse block area. No turning over, no attempt to start.

Here's what I know
No glove box release when pressing the button (and in neutral, w neutral light showing).
Bike does not attempt to start when pushing the start button. A click is heard in the relay; first click then a reset sound.

All fuses (aux and main) check out (replaced every one just in case).
Dash is fully functional and cycles through it's startup normally.
No running lights front or rear (they may come on when bike starts?)
Brake light works, horn works, brights work, hazzards work, blinkers work, signals left and right work.

Here's what I've done
Swapped the four relays around, replaced the "start" one with a spare i had.
Battery voltage reading 12.7v. No change when adding jump pack. took battery out and just used jump pack. no change.
Removed and cleaned chassis ground from negative terminal and reinstalled.
No ECU error codes in Diagnostics.
Unclipped and re-seated the two main plugs on left that run the dash and whatever the other one does.
There appear to be two larger relays just aft of the aux fuse block and relays. I don't have spares of those, so I havent checked them.

Open to suggestions.
 
Also clean the battery terminals. A jump pack connected just to cables may not provide enough amperage. Then check the 30 amp fuse holder. I ran across a bad one some time ago. It would conduct enough for gauges to read, but not enough for everything to energize properly.
 
Whoa, at least you're home!
One relay clicking and and fuel pump does not go on. One thing you can check is the alarm dummy plug for tight connection.
 
Messed with all the switch/sensors that I could think of, like the sidestand. Yes I have a multimeter and know how to use it.
 
I'm not too familliar with your bike, but I'll try to help. Does the fuel pump usually come on with the key and the kill switch in the run position? if so, I would check the kill switch first, then the relay to see if its receiving voltage.
 
One issue I had was with some ground wires located by the starter. The bottom rear standoff for the plastic cover goes through some electrically induced transformation and becomes brittle. Mine just snapped off.

There are several individual ground wires run into this one location. I was fortunate to be at the dealer troubleshooting some issues when it was discovered.
 
Ducatijohn said:
I'm not too familliar with your bike, but I'll try to help. Does the fuel pump usually come on with the key and the kill switch in the run position? if so, I would check the kill switch first, then the relay to see if its receiving voltage.

Yes, when i turn the key i hear the fuel pump and stepper motor as normal.
 
brlawson said:
One issue I had was with some ground wires located by the starter. The bottom rear standoff for the plastic cover goes through some electrically induced transformation and becomes brittle. Mine just snapped off.

There are several individual ground wires run into this one location. I was fortunate to be at the dealer troubleshooting some issues when it was discovered.

I did remove the main ground, clean and reinstall. I will check the other smaller wires. thanks.
 
zigzag said:
Whoa, at least you're home!
One relay clicking and and fuel pump does not go on. One thing you can check is the alarm dummy plug for tight connection.

whats the alarm dummy plug?
 
Next logical step is the starter relay. Check for power at the relay coil when the starter button is pressed, no power, an interlock is open, power but no starter, check the relay. Ohm out the side stand switch, clutch interlock and anything else that needs to be made before the relay will close. I've seen switchgear on the handlebar levers fail.
 
Ducatijohn said:
Next logical step is the starter relay. Check for power at the relay coil when the starter button is pressed, no power, an interlock is open, power but no starter, check the relay. Ohm out the side stand switch, clutch interlock and anything else that needs to be made before the relay will close. I've seen switchgear on the handlebar levers fail.

Switch gear on the handlebars seems to be working properly. As does the starter relay. I purchased new relays and replaced them and they, like the OEM click with the start button is depressed, then a few seconds later click again - as if properly closing and opening.

All connections at the starter itself have been cleaned and reconnected. Is there danger of damaging anything if I jump the posts on the starter connections to see if this has failed (see photo)>
031112133816.jpg


Failed battery thoughts remain, but if the was an internal problem, like fused cells, or something you'd think that the Tender would pick that up and give the error blinking. Also, I can't imagine that if the batt is bad that itself, that the jump pack together or separately wouldn't have enough amps to fire the bike. the jump pack has fired V10 ford trucks that have sat for years.
 
Won't hurt a thing to jumper at the starter solenoid. Also if the battery has an internal problem, you can't even jump start the bike. All the jumper energy goes to the battery, and not to the starter. Found out a few years ago from personal experience. Replaced the battery then all was good.
 
Jumping the starter will prove if the starter motor is good or bad. I prefer to check voltages personally. When dealing with a computer controlled vehicle, one false move could prove costly. Even a simple test light is a valuable tool when trying to diagnose electrical problems. If you jump the starter and it spins, you're back to the original problem. thumb the starter button and check for power at the starter.
 
In getting back to you: The Stelvio has a dedicated alarm harness located under the let side of the tank. (not visible with the tank plastic cover on.)There is a “dummy plug” inserted when you don’t have the alarm module. But, you said the fuel pump was working so I think you’re in the clear.

Earlier you indicated you could not open the glove box either. Combined with the non working starter, sounds like there is a possible fall play on the part of the gearbox switch here. Although, the starter should work when clutched in.

It would be a good idea to check I you get power at the starter when you press the starter button. If not, try to find the switch leads and loop them. See if that's not it.
 
UPDATE

New battery installed. Did not solve my problem.
I have 12V across the starter solenoid, no difference with the starter thumbed. I have not tried to jump the starter solenoid. I believe the starter button is operational, because I hear the click/re-click of the relay when it's pushed.
 
Wayne Orwig said:
Jumper at the starter solenoid , what happens?

That's what I am thinking is the next step, Wayne. Just didn't want to mess up something in doing it. Lets see:

key on
kill switch in run position
jump two poles on starter solenoid using two screwdrivers or channel locks

Am I missing anything?

of course, doesnt solve my glove box issue that materialized simultaneously...but i'll settle for a starting bike first.
also realizing that i have no running lights with key on (front or rear). high beams work. brake lights work. but the little lamps in the headlight are not on with key nor the outer rings of the brake lamps.
 
I still believe your problem lies with either the sidestand or neutral safety switch. Have you checked continuity of these? Have you tried to put the bike in gear, pull the clutch and try to start? I'd be happy to take a look at it for you if you live close enough. Where do you live?
 
This leading nowhere.
pm me your vin and I can mail you the right electronic diagram. In there mark everything what isn't working and see where the power shoud come from, that will lead you to the place where it's wrong. Most parts that don't work come from same power source, I think one fuse. You shoud start measuring there.
 
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