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Battery good but no go !

steve lindsay

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
55
Location
courtenay
I put the Griso away for winter and did all the right things . Took the battery out and kept it on trickle . Juiced the gas with the preservative . Anyway , first riding day here on the coast of Vancouver Island , all set to go , tire pressure checked , geared up and turn the key and no go . All the dash lights came on but as soon as the starter button was hit .........nothing , just the sound click, click , click . I took the battery to Canadian Tire and its good . Tried again , same thing . I'm a long way from service here and hope its not the starter . At least its still on warranty but pretty bummed a new bike with only 10,000 kms. could do this . Any help would be greatly appreciated . I love this bike and gave up a nice Triumph Sprint for her which never gave me a lick of a problem for the 5 years I wrote it . Things keep testing me with this bike and hopefully this is just a little glitch with something I've overlooked although sounds serious . :( :S
 
What test did they do on the battery?If it was just a volt meter across the terminals then that means nothing.Needs to be a proper load test.
Ciao
 
If the click click click was a loud one, it is the starter solenoid trying to engage and failing. Be sure the ground cable near the starter has a good connection and try again. If is still has the click, to make sure it isn't the battery, remove the starter keeping the wires connected (be careful not to arc the battery cable to ground). Ground the starter housing and press the starter button. If the starter turns, it is the battery. It doesn't have sufficient capacity to hold engagement under load. If you get the same click sound, it is the starter.
 
john zibell said:
If the click click click was a loud one, it is the starter solenoid trying to engage and failing. Be sure the ground cable near the starter has a good connection and try again. If is still has the click, to make sure it isn't the battery, remove the starter keeping the wires connected (be careful not to arc the battery cable to ground). Ground the starter housing and press the starter button. If the starter turns, it is the battery. It doesn't have sufficient capacity to hold engagement under load. If you get the same click sound, it is the starter.

I'll give it a shot although took my new 12 volt out of my Norton and same damn thing . Must be the starter as the clicking is loud and sounds like the solenoid . Maybe a loose connection . Lots of information regarding no starting on our this site because the time of the year I guess . The bike was stored in a warm garage all winter and was started once in Jan . Thanks for your help and will post any further findings.
 
The "No start" issue is common on new Guzzi's.
If you jump straight from the battery to the start trigger terminal on the starter set up (the small gauge wire on the starter that tells the starter to run) and the bike starts then you may also have the issue.
The issue is that when you try to start the bike the current draw causes a drop in voltage on the wire, the ECU sees this low voltage and aborts the start attempt because it thinks there is not enough voltage to safely start the bike.\

If that is the issue there is a fix posted here.
 
GuzziMoto said:
The "No start" issue is common on new Guzzi's.
If you jump straight from the battery to the start trigger terminal on the starter set up (the small gauge wire on the starter that tells the starter to run) and the bike starts then you may also have the issue.
The issue is that when you try to start the bike the current draw causes a drop in voltage on the wire, the ECU sees this low voltage and aborts the start attempt because it thinks there is not enough voltage to safely start the bike.\

If that is the issue there is a fix posted here.

Interesting , as boosted the battery from the car and it started right up . Let it run for a while then turned it off , tried starting it and same as before (nothing) only the dash flashed service big time . I agree and think its messaging from the ECU . Any clue as to where to find the fix here would be greatly appreciated and thanks for the help .
 
That covers it pretty well.
As for me, I added a second relay. The original relay now only triggers a second relay that carries the current to start the bike. The ECU is only monitoring the original relay and the voltage drop is minor because it is only triggering a second relay. After I "upgraded" to a smaller lighter battery I started having the issue, and while I haven't used it much since the re-wire so far it seems great.
 
GuzziMoto said:
The issue is that when you try to start the bike the current draw causes a drop in voltage on the wire, the ECU sees this low voltage and aborts the start attempt because it thinks there is not enough voltage to safely start the bike.
Never experienced this issue, but what exactly do you mean by an unsafe starting voltage? Insufficient juice to the ECU to regulate the injectors, determine TPS position, etc?
 
Goodvibes said:
GuzziMoto said:
The issue is that when you try to start the bike the current draw causes a drop in voltage on the wire, the ECU sees this low voltage and aborts the start attempt because it thinks there is not enough voltage to safely start the bike.
Never experienced this issue, but what exactly do you mean by an unsafe starting voltage? Insufficient juice to the ECU to regulate the injectors, determine TPS position, etc?
All ecu's have a "threshold" or minimum voltage they will accept for operating the injection/ignition system.Below this voltage it will simply not allow operation of the injection system and therefore the engine.
Without a reliable electrical supply of the correct voltage electronic things can do all sorts or weird and unlikely things that you cant write software to cater for.So to prevent that they simply set a minimum threshold for safe and reliable operation of the system.
BMW K series used to be 10.5 volts from memory,not sure what more modern systems are but with a dodgy battery an 1198 Ducati can throw up all sorts of weird electronic issues that a new battery sorts out fine.Even when the old battery seems ok the variable power supply plays havoc with the electronics.
Ciao
 
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