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Dry Clutch Replacement on Norge

Rafael,

Here is the picture you requested.

Afulldeck, It looks like that tool from MG cycle will work just fine. I wish it was available over 30 years ago when I got into doing these bikes.
 

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thanks John, now I see where it goes. I thought it was on the other end, looks like the zip tie provide some resilience and starts pushing the tool back out. I haven't had a problem pulling the tool out.
 
mbtech said:
Hey gang! I have read this post with much intrest as I am replacing the clutch disc's on my 07 Norge. It has 68, 000 miles on it as of right now and when the clutch slipped on me while accelerating on the freeway I knew it was time.
One question I have is on the clutch release rod. One end is smooth and perfect while the other end has scoring and a divet burneshed in the end. Also the amount of travel in the clutch release piston area is only 2.5 to 3.0MM. Does that sound right? I think the rod has been worn down. As measured it is about 18.5cm long. Is there a spec on this rod or the amount the piston should extend out of the back of the transmission? Thanks for all the advice in advance.
P.S. the picture of Bronc-brevas bike looks just like mine. Removed the complete engine and trans together after removing the carc and suspension. I also found the bearings in the carc pivot were never lubed and have scored and fell apart when I touched them while cleaning the frame. I can post pics later if anyone would care to see.

Hey Mbtech, I would like if you could post pictures. I've been procrastinating (not something I do often, but this job seems to be very complicated and I'm dragging my feet) so anything you can add to this discussion would be helpful. I've been carefully reading the Norge shop manual, and it just raises more questions than it answers for me. I wish I could watch a youtube video of someone changing the clutch and all the steps he/she has taken to do the job.

Has anyone done a video of this type of job?
 
afulldeck said:
So what does everyone think? Is it easier to pull the transmission or the engine? I'm thinking its probably easier to pull the transmission so long as the rear of the bike is suspended from above.

Thoughts?

I had to pull my engine for an oil pump failure that scorched a bearing. It wasn't very hard and gave good access to the clutch plates which I inspected while there. I left the transmission in place. Take care reattaching breather line, I cut the miniscule o-ring and had a nice gusher.
Regards
Matt
 
Matteo said:
afulldeck said:
So what does everyone think? Is it easier to pull the transmission or the engine? I'm thinking its probably easier to pull the transmission so long as the rear of the bike is suspended from above.

Thoughts?

I had to pull my engine for an oil pump failure that scorched a bearing. It wasn't very hard and gave good access to the clutch plates which I inspected while there. I left the transmission in place. Take care reattaching breather line, I cut the miniscule o-ring and had a nice gusher.
Regards
Matt

Interesting. The manual and most other folks have talk about removing the transmission, swing arm, rear tire etc. As I look at the bike it looked Like I could disconnect the gearbox and pull the engine towards the front wheel and out the side.
 
Yes that's what I did, I put a jack under it to lower the motor. A friend helped me put it on my workbench. If you put the bike on its centerstand you will have lots of room. I did it on the work table off its centerstand and still had plenty of room to work.
 
Well, I'm mid-way through the clutch replacement on the 2007 Norge, its been quite a job thus far. Some things I have learned:

1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.

2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.

3) The easiest part is the changing of the clutch fiction plates. That took less than 5 minutes. And yes, these fiction plates need to be replaced.

Wish me luck pulling it together tomorrow.
 
Well it took me roughly 18 hours to dis-assemble, change the clutch plates and reassemble my Norge. Not the easiest job, I've ever done. But its done. Had the bike out and about and everything is working as it should. I'm now wondering what does it usually cost at a shop to replace the fiction plates?
 
afulldeck said:
Well it took me roughly 18 hours to dis-assemble, change the clutch plates and reassemble my Norge. Not the easiest job, I've ever done. But its done. Had the bike out and about and everything is working as it should. I'm now wondering what does it usually cost at a shop to replace the fiction plates?

I'm not sure on a CARC bike, I haven't done one yet. I do know flat rate on a Tonti (California EV) is six hours, and I usually do one in four if there aren't any surprises. Do note that is with a bit of practice and having the factory tools.
 
Thanks John. Now that I've done it once, I could do it faster. Probably 10 hours...One tool that I would want is a hoist that works in conjunction with the lift. That would allow me to use Jack and supports more effectively.
 
afulldeck said:
Well, I'm mid-way through the clutch replacement on the 2007 Norge, its been quite a job thus far. Some things I have learned:

1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.

2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.

3) The easiest part is the changing of the clutch fiction plates. That took less than 5 minutes. And yes, these fiction plates need to be replaced.

Wish me luck pulling it together tomorrow.

Sorry to hear it, when me and Dave Pazar (Rodekyll) did mine we were able to simply drop the motor without removing tranny. Dont know why yours was different(did you remove the front mounts?). Same on the install just jacked up and bolted on. It took a little wiggling but we got it back together.
 
Matteo said:
afulldeck said:
Well, I'm mid-way through the clutch replacement on the 2007 Norge, its been quite a job thus far. Some things I have learned:

1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.

2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.

3) The easiest part is the changing of the clutch fiction plates. That took less than 5 minutes. And yes, these fiction plates need to be replaced.

Wish me luck pulling it together tomorrow.

Sorry to hear it, when me and Dave Pazar (Rodekyll) did mine we were able to simply drop the motor without removing tranny. Dont know why yours was different(did you remove the front mounts?). Same on the install just jacked up and bolted on. It took a little wiggling but we got it back together.

Darn. I wish I had taken a picture of why it didn't work. After we disconnect the front mounts we pulled the engine forward toward the front wheel. But the frame itself got in the way (we couldn't lower or raise the crank case past the front of the frame....and the engine to transmission bolts still needed about 1" of slack for it to work). We then loosen the who back end with hopes that it would give us enough room to lower the engine below the front of the frame, but no joy. That's when we decided to take the whole back end off....the rest is history.
 
I realized today while doing some maintenance, before I dropped my motor out of the frame I removed the alternator and timing cover. Probably why I had the extra room.
 
Matteo said:
I realized today while doing some maintenance, before I dropped my motor out of the frame I removed the alternator and timing cover. Probably why I had the extra room.


That probably was the extra inches I could have used.
 
Glad I found this thread.
My buddy's B11 is on the verge of needing a new clutch. It only has 45k miles on it but he had an incidence in which he gotten stuck behind an indecisive car on a steep and and burned up his clutch a bit.

I've done clutch jobs on tontis and one loop frame, so I have the tools already! I was reading threads to find out if the carc/swing arm/ drv shaft had to come out before removing gearbox and motor, because I've previously taken a drive shaft out and it did not want to let go of the gearbox output shaft so easily. So, Matteo, thanks for the answer. We'll be giving it a shot your way. I think taking the timing cover would be easier than taking the whole dang bike apart.
 
I realized today while doing some maintenance, before I dropped my motor out of the frame I removed the alternator and timing cover. Probably why I had the extra room.
Well we're not having the same luck as you. Got the timing cover off and started moving the motor forward splitting it from the trans, and found that it the right (forward) cylinder hits the the frame tube where the motor mount bracket connects. We wiggled and wiggled. Measured the remaining distance that the motor/trans studs had to go to clear and it was about an inch. We also pulled out the top trans bolt to pivot the front of the trans downward and still not enough room.

Matteo, can you recall what else you did to get the motor out?

We just don't see it happening. Next move is to avoid hanging the rear of the bike, we plan on taking out the drive shaft and going at it again. My buddy thinks this will allow the trans to tilt down more and allow us to slide the motor out. - worth a try. My guess is that we're going to have to hang the rear of the bike and drop the centerstand, trans and motor together.

any help would be appreciated.
 
1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.

2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.

Found this to be true. We tried again pulling the motor w/o the trans and also took out the drive shaft. Tilted the motor/trans forward and could not find a way to leave the trans on the frame. The right head touches the frame motor hanger. If one happens to have the right head off - then I can see it happening.

To clarify:
the '2" bolts' reffed above are the motor /trans bolts and the 'front of the frame' is the motor mount portion on the right not the the head tube intersection that would cause interference with the timing chest cover.
 
I've done a dozen + motor drops on CARC bikes. See the Service manual for the best how to. It's a one man operation with a good flat scissor jack and a means to hold the back on the bike up.
 
I'm starting a restoration project on my B11. Powder coating, re-painting and plating to remove the corrosion. When I pull in the clutch leaver I get a very noisy sound from the dry clutch. I know dry clutches make a racket but is there something that I should check when I get the engine/ gearbox out?
Also does anyone know of someone who hires out tools in the UK.
Many thanks
Nigel
 
I'm starting a restoration project on my B11. Powder coating, re-painting and plating to remove the corrosion. When I pull in the clutch leaver I get a very noisy sound from the dry clutch. I know dry clutches make a racket but is there something that I should check when I get the engine/ gearbox out?
Also does anyone know of someone who hires out tools in the UK.
Many thanks
Nigel


Normal to get clutch rattle on the two plate clutch when disengaged. If you are getting a squealing sound, it may be the throw out bearing. Depending on miles, it may be a good time to replace the clutch plates, intermediate plate and gearbox hub gear. The new plates and gear should last over a 100K miles, but if you have it apart, that will save going back in later. Also do all the seals and o-rings you can access while apart.
 
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