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v50 III stalls when warm (after 5-7 miles)

A

acorrea

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 4, 2012
Messages
2
Help...My v50 will run great for about 7 miles...then stalls. If I let it sit for 10 minutes it will fire right up and run great again long enough to get home and park it. Is this a coil issue? Electric box issue? Valve clearance? I am planning on checking these items this weekend but wanted to get some expert advice first.

BTW - This is my first Guzzi and I am loving the bike and the Guzzi community.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Same thing happened to my T-3 a couple of times, turned out to be a bad coil the first time and junk clogging the petcock screen the second time. electronic ignitions either works or not unless it cuts out it may be a bad connection.
good luck.
 
Guys, thanks for the additional items to check. One other detail - when the bike stalls, it does so when waiting at a light and not while running so it doesn't just cut out. It will happen when the light goes green and I go to accelerate and the bike boggs and turns off. Hope this sparks some more ideas.
 
acorrea said:
Guys, thanks for the additional items to check. One other detail - when the bike stalls, it does so when waiting at a light and not while running so it doesn't just cut out. It will happen when the light goes green and I go to accelerate and the bike boggs and turns off. Hope this sparks some more ideas.
Click to expand...

The symptom you describe fits all of the above. The easiest thing to check is the gas cap vent. Take a run with the cap off. If it doesn't stall when taking off from the light, that is your answer. If it does, you know it isn't the cap and can check the coils and other items mentioned.
 
I have seen these symptoms in two other vehicles. OK, they were both cars, but the problem in both cases lay with the electronic ignition. What would happen is that the ignition module would work fine until it got hot, then mysteriously and suddenly die.

Once given a chance to cool down again, it would function perfectly, until it got hot. Lather, rinse, repeat. Apparently very common in early Ford Lasers. The other vehicle I've seen do it was a WB ute. It could be something worth checking.
 
I've had this happen with my V35C, V50/III and V65 Lario, at least dropping one cylinder - common to the bunch is that they have point ignition which includes condencers.

When getting old they fail when getting hot 100-130c. That will cause rough running or make one of both cylinders cut. The cranck case on an SB gets HOT.

Problem is, that new condencers do not mean good condercers.
You need to test them at temps up to 120c and see if they stay close to the value. One way is to use a meter cehcking resistance. It should flip the hand, and then fall back to around 10k ohm when measuring resistance on the condencer. Much less than that at 120c, it leaks too much, and you have a faulty capacitor, that will cut your engine when hot.

Just a suggestion to your problem. May be other stuff too - coils, wire from the coils, plug caps, plugs. All this tend to get unstable when getting old, kinda like guzziti's :eek: B) :lol:

Ciao
Brian
 
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