• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

After-Market Clutch Lever for 2012 Stelvio NTX

roofus

roofus

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
72
Location
Lanark, ON
The friction zone of My 2012 Stelvio clutch is too far out from the handlebar. Even with the lever adjusted to #4 (closest to the bar) the clutch does not engage until the lever is almost fully released. Are any of the aftermarket clutch levers more adjustable?

I am assuming the clutch is not adjustable at the engine end and I am aslo assuming that bleeding the clutch line would not do any good.

The bike only has 1500km on it. :?:
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

Sounds like it may not have the correct push rod in the clutch assembly. Pete had mentioned there are different length rods. Looking at the parts manual, four lengths are available. Since you are under warranty, I'd suggest a trip to your dealer. There is a special tool that your dealer should have for determining the correct length of the push rod.
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

Is the feel or distance to the bar different from when it was delivered? If so, bleed the clutch. For some reason, all of the newer big blocks seem to have an issue with the clutch system needing bled often. There's a few lever options out there that work, do a search.
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

john zibell said:
Sounds like it may not have the correct push rod in the clutch assembly. Pete had mentioned there are different length rods. Looking at the parts manual, four lengths are available. Since you are under warranty, I'd suggest a trip to your dealer. There is a special tool that your dealer should have for determining the correct length of the push rod.
Click to expand...

Thanks John, that is very interesting to know. I will check it out at the dealer today. Unfortunately I just had it in there for the installation of a Euro blinker kit and heated grips!
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

GT-Rx said:
Is the feel or distance to the bar different from when it was delivered? If so, bleed the clutch. For some reason, all of the newer big blocks seem to have an issue with the clutch system needing bled often. There's a few lever options out there that work, do a search.
Click to expand...

The friction zone has not moved since I got the bike, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to bleed it and top it up the reservoir.

I noticed some clutch levers on ebay from GNC? CNC? for the Stelvio and the Breva, but I could not tell if they were adjustable or not. Still googling!
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

roofus said:
GT-Rx said:
Is the feel or distance to the bar different from when it was delivered? If so, bleed the clutch. For some reason, all of the newer big blocks seem to have an issue with the clutch system needing bled often. There's a few lever options out there that work, do a search.
Click to expand...

The friction zone has not moved since I got the bike, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to bleed it and top it up the reservoir.

I noticed some clutch levers on ebay from GNC? CNC? for the Stelvio and the Breva, but I could not tell if they were adjustable or not. Still googling!
Click to expand...
I use a pair of "V-Trec short" on my Stelvio and would not change to the original ones any more.
http://www.v-trec.com/
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

john zibell said:
Sounds like it may not have the correct push rod in the clutch assembly. Pete had mentioned there are different length rods. Looking at the parts manual, four lengths are available. Since you are under warranty, I'd suggest a trip to your dealer. There is a special tool that your dealer should have for determining the correct length of the push rod.
Click to expand...


The rod lengths are adjustable when adding a different lever, Piazzio or a Chinese knock off the instructions are to carefully measure the push rod length and duplicate that when transferring the rod to the new lever. The rod is adjustable via a threaded screw base. You might try adjusting the length to see if it helps . Be forewarned the setting is locked in by a very tiny set screw that has to loosened before turning the rod in or out.
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

draidt said:
john zibell said:
Sounds like it may not have the correct push rod in the clutch assembly. Pete had mentioned there are different length rods. Looking at the parts manual, four lengths are available. Since you are under warranty, I'd suggest a trip to your dealer. There is a special tool that your dealer should have for determining the correct length of the push rod.
Click to expand...


The rod lengths are adjustable when adding a different lever, Piazzio or a Chinese knock off the instructions are to carefully measure the push rod length and duplicate that when transferring the rod to the new lever. The rod is adjustable via a threaded screw base. You might try adjusting the length to see if it helps . Be forewarned the setting is locked in by a very tiny set screw that has to loosened before turning the rod in or out.
Click to expand...

Dan,

The rods I referred to are the ones that run through the transmission to disengage the clutch plate.

Roofus,

Just came back from a ride on my B11. Friction zone on it is near the end of travel also, but she works fine. If this is your first bike with an hydraulic clutch, it may just take time to get accustomed to it. With the hydraulics, you don't need a great deal of free of free play at the clutch lever to make sure the clutch fully engages. That in itself would move the friction zone out. If you adjust the lever back in where you want it and can fully disengage the clutch she will be OK.
 
This is my 4th bike with a hydraulic clutch. In fact I am pretty sure I have never driven one with a mechanical clutch.

The reason I take exception to the friction zone of the clutch on my 2012 Stelvio is that I previously had a 2009 Stelvio, which had a friction zone much closer to the bar. I would describe it as "in the middle." I also have a 2010 Cafe which also has a friction zone closer to the bar.

Having the friction zone "out from the bar" is actually nice going from 2-6 and 6-2, but It is a nuisance at red lights, stop signs etc.: any time you have to move off in 1st.

It's not a huge deal, I am becoming used to it, but I would change it if it's not a great deal of trouble.
 
Re: After-Market Clutch for 2012 Stelvio NTX

ferdi said:
roofus said:
GT-Rx said:
Is the feel or distance to the bar different from when it was delivered? If so, bleed the clutch. For some reason, all of the newer big blocks seem to have an issue with the clutch system needing bled often. There's a few lever options out there that work, do a search.
Click to expand...

The friction zone has not moved since I got the bike, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to bleed it and top it up the reservoir.

I noticed some clutch levers on ebay from GNC? CNC? for the Stelvio and the Breva, but I could not tell if they were adjustable or not. Still googling!
Click to expand...
I use a pair of "V-Trec short" on my Stelvio and would not change to the original ones any more.
http://www.v-trec.com/
Click to expand...

They look good!

Are they adjustable? It's not clear from the website :?:
 
yes of course - the little lever on top, available in different colours, ajusts it in different positions away from the bar
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top