• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oil Cooler replacement

marcus_b

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
70
Hi all,

When replacing the oil cooler is there any procedure I need to follow to bleed out air from the system as you would a radiator. I've looked in the workshop manual but it only has the removal procedure shown... and no install procedure.

Thanks in advance!
 
Can't remember whether the cooler circuit is thermostatically controlled on the 1100's or not, (Assuming from the pic in your avatar that its an 1100?). If you want to be safe take the outer plugs out after you've replaced the cooler and hot-wire the starter and spin it for 30 seconds to prime the cooler. You might be able to do it on the button with the fuel relay removed but I can't remember if the fuel relay also controls the starter circuit? Just hot-wiring the starter is easier really.

Pete
 
Thanks Pete,

I wasn't thinking about oil starvation issues on first startup but more along the lines of making sure there is no air trapped in the cooler, as both the inlet and outlet to the oil cooler are on the bottom and I cant see how all the air would escape.

If I recall correctly the 1100 (which I have) does have a thermostat but it looks like the 1200 may not... ive only just noticed that the two version have the cooler piped in differently.
 
Back
Top