• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

electronic ignition , what's your feedback ?

I don't have any experience with the Sache, But I've used the Dyna III for may years on both Guzzi and BMW motorcycles with little to no trouble from them.
 
john zibell said:
I don't have any experience with the Sache, But I've used the Dyna III for may years on both Guzzi and BMW motorcycles with little to no trouble from them.

do you mind if i ask what kind of trouble ?
I've heard the sache is a good product but i like better the dyna because it goes where the points used to be, and it can be adjusted while the motor is running , just my personal taste.... i guess...

thanks
 
I'd like to get the Saches just to get rid of the distributor, to clear up the congestion of stuff between the cylinders, but nothing gone wrong with the ignition systems currently have.

My SP has the Dyna III, the only problem I've had in 22 years was some cutting out. Just cleaned connectors and zip tied the wires in place.

Have the Lucas Rita (no longer made) on my T-3, it's a similar the Saches. (It uses the Hall effect.) I set it once in when I installed it in 1984 haven't thought about it since.

Anyone out there have the Saches system?
 
If you’re electronically challenged I’d stick with available commercial systems. However if you are adventurous and looking for a reliable, inexpensive alternative, using the stock ignition distributor and advance curve you might find the Chrysler pointless ignition adaptation interesting. I’ve used this system since it first came out in 74, and have recently upgraded components in a recent restoration.

FYI- see
http://home.comcast.net/~gustofur/Guzzi/adpch.pdf

Its components are inexpensive, readily available at any automotive parts store (in the rare event of component failure), and very durable.

I've run this system with one coil, one control box as one system (wasted spark) and as two independent systems using two spark coils and two control boxes. I tend to like two independent systems and currently have the bike set up this way.

I've made a slight modification to the distributor pickup arrangement. It still uses the two pickup coils’ (one for each cylinder) but I've replaced the reluctor with a small piece (fragment) of magnet that was shaped like an arrowhead or pyramid. The base of the pyramid was epoxied to the shaft of the distributor where the reluctor was formerly placed. Most of the magnet is covered with epoxy leaving only a small Tip exposed. The distance to the pickup coil is probably several millimeters.

By using this small magnet the ignition pulse or signal is concentrated or focused more precisely without any indication of a spurious signal especially at higher RPMs. It's almost like a Hall Effect ignition except still a transistorized system. It works flawlessly and if anything puts out too much spark. I had to try various ballast resistor ohm values to keep the spark manageable without having the spark jump out of the coil or breach the spark plug wires and drawing too much current. Two Ohms for the Accel performance coil works best. Without the resistor the ignition draws too much current and at idle the battery is losing current, also the spark is not easily contained and will jump at the least provocation (several inches). So the ballast resistor keeps the spark manageable and also benefits the charging system. Without the resistor there is too much spark and it will break through the spark plug wire. Once that happens the wire is no good.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... id=2048838

The system will probably work with the stock or bosch coils as well.

Testing the setup while refurbishing the Sport

http://home.comcast.net/~gustofur/Guzzi/timing.wmv
 
ARVENO said:
john zibell said:
I don't have any experience with the Sache, But I've used the Dyna III for may years on both Guzzi and BMW motorcycles with little to no trouble from them.

do you mind if i ask what kind of trouble ?
I've heard the sache is a good product but i like better the dyna because it goes where the points used to be, and it can be adjusted while the motor is running , just my personal taste.... i guess...

thanks

I had an Allen set screw come loose on the magnet/rotor and a connector give up the ghost. Both easy fixes. Set screw probably wasn't tightened enough when installed, and the connectors are small so an occasional problem is understandable.
 
I have the dyna111 and 5 ohm dyna coils, once I had it set up properly ( setting the pick up's so that both pots are firing at the correct time ) I havnt had to touch it . I chose to make brackets for the coils
DSC00918.jpg

DSC00917.jpg

I also fitted a bosch reg and a lucas rect while I was at it
 
I have the Sachse unit with the combined reg/rec. Only problems were when I mis-timed it due to using the wrong instructions and then selecting the wrong advance curve. Once I sorted that out it works great.

Was worried at first as it it looked a little fragile being a circuit board installed into an area that get pretty dammed hot. The board has some sort of epoxy protection though and so far its been faultless. You also have a lot of advance curves to select from if you want to tune stuff later.

Not saying better than Dyna because I don't know the Dyna, but the Sachse works well and does away with the distributor. Theoretically timing should be more accurate as there will be no timing chain backlash.

The unit is wasted spark but, the spark occurs at 360 degrees from ignition (the good wasted spark type) not when the other cylinder requires a spark (which can be problematic).

Volker Sachse is very good and will reply to tech inquiries in some detail too

AltStator2.jpg


John
 
installed a dyna3 on my 90 cal 3 2years ago easy to install and set up huge difference over dual points recomend new fly weight springs when you do it cause your not gonna take the cover off for a long time , got my parts from M&G cycle . real helpfull and priced right/ hope it helped
 
I have the Sachse unit, and I have been very pleased with it. Absolutely no problems. Volker Sachse was very responsive to questions, and he very quickly made up a new rotor that I needed to use it in combination with my Ducati Electronica alternator.
 
Back
Top