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Torque heads: lube or no lube on threads??

KnowFear

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
103
I am unsure if I should be using lube or not on the head stud threads. When I assembled I did NOT lube them. I am experiencing an annoying oil leak from both head gaskets. This leak showed up after 5 or 6 heat cycles @ 280 miles from rebuild. I re-torqued at that point, oil leak did not go away.
 
A little engine oil on the threads will help reduce the stiction that can lead to under torquing. Avoid anti seize or moly as it can lead to over torquing.
 
KnowFear said:
I am unsure if I should be using lube or not on the head stud threads. When I assembled I did NOT lube them. I am experiencing an annoying oil leak from both head gaskets. This leak showed up after 5 or 6 heat cycles @ 280 miles from rebuild. I re-torqued at that point, oil leak did not go away.

I don't lube the threads, even oil will change the amount of stretch of the stud. When you look at standard torque tables, the specification for a bolt is lower if the threads are lubed. It is my understanding that the Guzzi torque specifications are for dry torque.

On a rebuild, I recommend doing a re-torque after the first heat cycle. You will be amazed at how much rotation you will get. When doing the re-torque, I back off each 1/8 turn, then get the torque wrench. You will get quite a bit more than the 1/8 turn you backed off to get to the specified torque. BTW, on Tonti bikes (850s through the 1100s) I use 35 lb-ft as the torque value.
 
Hey guys - thanks for the input. I have stuck with the manual re torque value of 30 ft-lbs. I'm a little nervous going to 35 ft-lbs. At this point should I try that, or should I replace the head gaskets and start from scratch?
 
KnowFear said:
Hey guys - thanks for the input. I have stuck with the manual re torque value of 30 ft-lbs. I'm a little nervous going to 35 ft-lbs. At this point should I try that, or should I replace the head gaskets and start from scratch?

Once they leak, it is hard to stop them. I'd replace the head gaskets. I got the 35 lb-ft spec from the service manager at the importer many years ago for the Tonti bikes. I believe the conversion value from NM to lb-ft comes out to just a little over 31 lb-ft. Going to 35 won't damage anything. Also please remember to re-torque after the first head cycle. It will make a difference.
 
Check the O rings on the studs. If they are broken, or missing, no amount of torque will stop the oil leaks.
 
Spray both sides of the head gasket with aluminium paint, wait untill tacky, then assemble.

Old trick learned from a prof engine rebuilder.
 
Coming in late on this, but if you are trying to eliminate leaks, I can suggest another oddball thing to check, the sealing surface under the inner stud access covers.

On my SP1000, I had replaced the O rings on the inner stud access covers right after I bought it, but I kept seeing seepage on the fins where the gasket is. Last spring I pulled the valve gear and replaced the stud o-rings, then decided to re-torque just for drill. When I removed the inner stud access cover on the leaky side, the ring looked like it had bulged out and gotten pinched. On closer inspection, I noticed that the seat area for the o-ring on the head casting had a notch in it. Looks like the core that they used to form the pushrod tunnel must have gotten twisted out of position. There wasn't quite enough metal for the o-ring to seal against. Luigi strikes again.

I wanted to get going, so I ended up filling the o-ring groove and threads in the access cover with form-a-gasket and screwing it in. So far it's done the job.
 
tewrecks said:
Spray both sides of the head gasket with aluminium paint, wait untill tacky, then assemble.

Old trick learned from a prof engine rebuilder.

If you feel you need to coat the gasket, I would use copper coat http://www.amazon.com/CRC-401612-Copper ... B000M8NZ8E instead of paint. The product is made to seal head gaskets. I use it on Motel T Fords all the time.
 
Thanks everyone.

My new head gaskets just arrived, so I'll be getting to it soon. John - thanks for the copper coat link.

Chris
 
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