Few noob questions: trans vent, front brake switch...

[wicks]

Combining a couple of newbie questions on one thread so as not to make a mess...

1 - Trans oil comes up the vent tube about 2", worried its going to climb further and make a big mess...
2 - Can one adjust the front brake switch built into the cable? Requires very strong pull before it turns brake light on.
3 - This is dumb...there's water dripping from the screw on the bottom of the left exhaust. Water. makes a puddle at idle, over and over again, after a ride to "clear" it out. Like it is somehow condensing the stuff from atmosphere.
4 - Best way to change shift pattern? Seems like lever has to be rewelded under other side of shift shaft, but may not be room there. Wouldn't mind but ride several different bikes, one of which goes very fast (aprilia) and don't want to get myself into a shift fouling pattern.

 

[fotoguzzi]

what bike?

 

[john zibell]

Combining a couple of newbie questions on one thread so as not to make a mess...

1 - Trans oil comes up the vent tube about 2", worried its going to climb further and make a big mess...
2 - Can one adjust the front brake switch built into the cable? Requires very strong pull before it turns brake light on.
3 - This is dumb...there's water dripping from the screw on the bottom of the left exhaust. Water. makes a puddle at idle, over and over again, after a ride to "clear" it out. Like it is somehow condensing the stuff from atmosphere.
4 - Best way to change shift pattern? Seems like lever has to be rewelded under other side of shift shaft, but may not be room there. Wouldn't mind but ride several different bikes, one of which goes very fast (aprilia) and don't want to get myself into a shift fouling pattern.

Looking at your other posts, it appears the bike in question is your V7 Sport. so based on that:

1. This is normal. Just make sure the tube goes to the top of the frame. Using Synthetic will diminish the pumping. Also make sure the transmission/gearbox detent spring under the fitting for the vent hose is clear and not caked as that will reduce the pressure buildup in the transmission/gearbox.

2. Try cleaning the switch with contact cleaner. If that fails to correct the problem you only option is to repace the cable as it isn't adjustable.

3. Yes, that is just condensation. Tighten the clamp may stop the trip, but you do want the water to exit the system.

4. Shift pattern change is tricky on the V7 Sport. See if the 850 T cross shaft will change the shifting to the modern standard pattern. It has been awhile since I have seen either of these types of bikes so I can't be positive on that. Somehow the direction of the cross shaft action needs to be reversed, a different cross shaft may do it, or somehow adding or eliminating a pivot point will achieve the same results with the stock cross shaft.

Good luck,

 

[Rafael]

4. Shift pattern change is tricky on the V7 Sport. See if the 850 T cross shaft will change the shifting to the modern standard pattern. It has been awhile since I have seen either of these types of bikes so I can't be positive on that. Somehow the direction of the cross shaft action needs to be reversed, a different cross shaft may do it, or somehow adding or eliminating a pivot point will achieve the same results with the stock cross shaft.

The part No. for the cross shafts are different even though the illustrations in the parts books are the same. (This is typical of MG parts books.) The linkage rods are different numbers too. I'm surprised that the shift lever (on the trans shaft) are the same.

The linkage actuator tab welded to the cross shaft on the 850T is in FRONT the cross shaft. That suggests that the reverse pattern would have the tab welded pointing to the rear, so, wicks, take a look at your V7S. The tab should be at the rear.

 

[wicks]

What is the best synth gear oil to use in a 73 guzzi gear box? And do I need to change the rear drive oil to match?

 

[wicks]

Thanks Rafael - the tab is pointed forward now. It seems it just would need to scoot toward the right side of the bike 2 or 3 inches to act on the output shaft the other direction...anyone know if a T cross shaft is in that position and will fit on a V7 sport without interfering with the clutch linkage?

 

[john zibell]

What is the best synth gear oil to use in a 73 guzzi gear box? And do I need to change the rear drive oil to match?

"Best" opens up a whole new can of worms and I don't want to go there. I use readily available 75W90 oil available at most auto parts stores in the US. The most common being Mobil1. Whether it is best or not is a discussion I don't want to start as there are many fine oils out there. I also recommend this type oil (synthetic) in the rear drive, and if you use synthetic, leave out the moly that the old Guzzi manuals specify, you won't need it. So purchase the oil you are sure you can readily obtain with good qualities. Brand is not all that important.

 

[john zibell]

Thanks Rafael - the tab is pointed forward now. It seems it just would need to scoot toward the right side of the bike 2 or 3 inches to act on the output shaft the other direction...anyone know if a T cross shaft is in that position and will fit on a V7 sport without interfering with the clutch linkage?

The end cover on the V7 and 850 T should be the same. If it works on the T, it will work on the V7. This workshop manual may be of assistance. http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/750 ... 8GB%29.pdf Looking at figures 82 and 83 (near the back of the manual) the V7 Sport has the shifter on the right. It would take a complete change over to the T setup to modernize the controls. I would keep the original components in case of you or a future owner wanting to change it back to original.

 

[Rafael]

Thanks Rafael - the tab is pointed forward now. It seems it just would need to scoot toward the right side of the bike 2 or 3 inches to act on the output shaft the other direction...anyone know if a T cross shaft is in that position and will fit on a V7 sport without interfering with the clutch linkage?

Figures 82/83 are really helpful. The shift pattern depends on the side that the shift lever is on but is not determined by it.

The linkage actuator tab on the (left shift) 850T cross shaft is 2 inches center to center from the foot shift lever. So, if your set up is has the tab about the same distance from the end the 850T cross shaft won't help you. The trans shift lever on the T is offset forward pointing to the left. I took a quick measurement of the trans shift lever and I don't see a way to flip it 180 degrees and not bang into the adjuster and or the clutch lever. Unless you have room to flip the trans shift lever again so that the offset is away, toward the back, from the trans. I doubt that there is enough room.

So, it seems that the reverse pattern on your bike is done the same way as it's done on the eldo/ambo - with the shift drum.??? If so, your options are to find a T or later trans or the shift drum from those models and have your trans rebuilt.

Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing will be very helpful with this. http://www.zydecoracing.com/home.html

 

[tewrecks]

I've seen a modified shift lever which does not involve any frame welding but I don’t recall where?.

The attached photos show and adaptation to change the shift pattern. This was accomplished by adding a shift lever, linkage and welding a thick adapter plate to the frame.

Also the photos show an external return spring arrangement. There was an aftermarket part for this but I don't think it's available any more. The originals springs that came with the kit broke but I found that butter knife blades worked even better.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... 202/r3.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... eturn1.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... eturn2.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... eturn3.jpg

 

[john zibell]

I've seen a modified shift lever which does not involve any frame welding but I don’t recall where?.

The attached photos show and adaptation to change the shift pattern. This was accomplished by adding a shift lever, linkage and welding a thick adapter plate to the frame.

Also the photos show an external return spring arrangement. There was an aftermarket part for this but I don't think it's available any more. The originals springs that came with the kit broke but I found that butter knife blades worked even better.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... 202/r3.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... eturn1.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... eturn2.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Go ... eturn3.jpg

I remember that external spring kit. I had on on my 850 T. When the original springs failed, I use four 0.025 in feeler gauges, two up and two down to replace the singles. These kits were used because the design of the return spring in that era had only one loop and was prone to failure. The new double loop internal return springs do not break.

 

[wicks]

That is just incredible with the butter knife! Bike already has shift on the left - a nice setup from the original era...don't want to mess it around much. Perhaps I'll just change the other bikes to race pattern and get used to it, it takes all of 2 minutes to change on them.

 

[john zibell]

That is just incredible with the butter knife! Bike already has shift on the left - a nice setup from the original era...don't want to mess it around much. Perhaps I'll just change the other bikes to race pattern and get used to it, it takes all of 2 minutes to change on them.

That may just be the best idea yet. When you change bike you just need to remember which foot is for shifting and which one is for braking!!

 

[wicks]

What about synth oil in the motor? Is it bad for bushings or some such? Have a case of 0W-40 Mobil 1 left over from the M5 era.

 

[john zibell]

For the old Tonti bikes, use a 15W50 synthetic. The 0W40 is a bit thin. If the seals start to leak, go back with mineral oils, but be sure to use at least one that goes to a 50 weight.