Happens more than once..

[Trout]

I have two recurring issues on a 2011 California:

Twice now after filling the tank & then drinking a cup of coffee she is hard starting & then runs real rough, if it was a carbed bike I'd be pulling plugs to see if one was fouling but it does not puff black smoke, there is a very odd sweet smell to the exhaust almost like extreme advanced timing. Shut it off count to 5 crank it up and it is smooth again. The reason I mention the cup of coffee is because years ago I ran into a vapor lock problem with a new car that would only happen in a very short very specific time frame. Any thoughts?

Left side valve cover leaks oil. 3 times now between 1100 & 1500 miles oil will start seeping from the front of the cover. It will fill the allen head bolt, wet the plug boot & wire & drip onto the floorboard. First time I used an OEM gasket, second time I used the thick gasket from MG cycles, this time I'm thinking of doubling the gaskets and using lock washers. With the engine hot the bolts are tight but when it is cold they are on the loose side. Any thoughts?

 

[Rafael]

Q1: Still have the emissions system connected? Could it be the lines are filled with fuel and cause plugs to get wet?

Q2: Are the bolts long enough to poke through on the first fin? If not maybe the threads are worn allowing the bolts to come loose. Can the bolts be wobbled as they are going in? Maybe it's time for thread inserts like TimeSerts.

 

[john zibell]

On the leaking valve cover, make sure it is perfectly flat. I'd use the larger piece of glass and a full sheet of sand paper to check. I tighten valve cover screws with a T handle, just finger pressure is enough to have the screws tight enough to not leak. As for the rough running, the in fuel tank pump should prevent vapor lock. Since it only does this on a full tank, I'd start by checking for proper tank venting (remove tip over valve) and making sure the vent line(s) is/are open and not pinched.

 

[Amboman]

May not be a valve cover gasket leak - could be the o-ring on the cover plug over the top head nut.

 

[Trout]

On the leaking valve cover, make sure it is perfectly flat. I'd use the larger piece of glass and a full sheet of sand paper to check.

Good point it may be slightly warped

I tighten valve cover screws with a T handle, just finger pressure is enough to have the screws tight enough to not leak.

Well I may have caused myself some problems because the last time I pulled them down pretty good so I may have added to an already warped valve cover. The first time it leaked was right before the first service and all the screws were loose, no big deal It had to come off anyway. I used an OEM gasket and snugged them down. When it started leaking again some of the bolts were loose so when it was cold I loosened all of them and did a re-tighten with a little extra torque but it still leaked. I had the thicker gaskets from MG cycle so I pulled it back off, looked for hairline cracks or peeling chrome and reassembled but this time I pulled down a bit harder then I normally would on a valve cover. About 1200 miles and it is leaking again.

As for the rough running, the in fuel tank pump should prevent vapor lock. Since it only does this on a full tank, I'd start by checking for proper tank venting (remove tip over valve) and making sure the vent line(s) is/are open and not pinched.

Where is the tip over valve inside tank? Part of the fuel neck assembly?

Thanks John appreciate the input.

 

[john zibell]

Trout,

The tip over valve is part of the fuel recovery system. Locate the vent line at the front of the tank. it is a round valve in that line. Just remove it. You may re-connect the line, or not if you intend to remove the fuel recovery system. See the last page of the Cal Vintage parts manual. If you decide to remove the evap system, you may either run a hose from the taps on the manifolds, or just place caps on them.

 

[Trout]

John, I see a lot of posts where the cannister systems are being removed is there really any advantage to doing this?
I will do the tip over valve and see what happens. It's only done the hard start twice in 5000 miles and Todd is doing an ECU Re-Flash & a PCV/AT which may help.

Thanks again, Trout

 

[john zibell]

John, I see a lot of posts where the cannister systems are being removed is there really any advantage to doing this?
I will do the tip over valve and see what happens. It's only done the hard start twice in 5000 miles and Todd is doing an ECU Re-Flash & a PCV/AT which may help.

Thanks again, Trout

On the EV style bikes, it gets rid on the can under the seat and gives you more room for "stuff" there. It is relatively easy to cap the vacuum ports. I use the BMW caps that are common on the old K100 and K1100 bikes. If you leave the vent line disconnected once you remove the valve, you might as well do the rest. I don't think the bike will run better, you just eliminate potential vacuum leak points.

 

[Trout]

Just an update from what has happened since this was originally posted.

Valve cover leak solved by doubling the gaskets.

Start problem was exactly where John pointed me to. The vent hose was kinked just past the tip over valve.

I may try removing the evap system to solve another thing I'm experiencing, I swear this bike makes me think I'm crazy! She is very sensitive to weather temp and wind.

Loves the cool, dense, night air and that is not unusual even for carb'd bikes and RV's.

Hot dry weather is not fun, she was way more noticeable vibration at 4000 plus RPM but putting feet on the passenger pegs & grabbing the bars down low it is less noticeable. Could this be a temp sensor out of range?

The weird thing is wind & makes me think I'm losing it. At speeds over 65 in windy conditions she is a vibrator, the mirrors shake and at times the helmet dances on my head and even the vision gets wonky. I'm really thinking it is areo-dynamics more than anything else. A combination of the wide bars, a small wind screen, & the mirrors and with my arms stretched out I'm a sail in the wind. I can put my feet up on the passenger pegs and grab the bars low and duck behind the small wind screen and it helps a lot.

I'm seriously thinking of throwing on a set of clip ons or drag bars just to see if it helps.

I have never had such a love-hate relationship with any bike in my life.

 

[Tim_R]

Valve Cover Leak - 2009 California Vintage

Both valve covers have leaked on my bike. After the right one leaked, I did a little research and talked to a friend of mine who is an excellent automobile mechanic. Here is what I've done:

1. Installed new OEM gaskets on both sides (purchased from MPH Cycles in Houston).
2. Looked up the torque values for the A4-70 M6 bolts. It is 7.3 newton-meters (5.38 foot-pounds). This is very little torque. I highly recommend a torque wrench for this job!
3. I cleaned the old gasket material off the metal surfaces with a razor blade (don't let the shavings fall into the engine!)
4. I used three bolts through the valve cover and gasket to hold the gasket in alignment when I put the covers back on.
5. This is what I think is the important part. I put blue Loctite on the threads and used a domed - toothed lock washer to make sure the engine vibration doesn't loosen the bolts.

I've only driven a couple hundred miles; however, I am hopeful that the problem is resolved.

I hope this is helpful to you and others with leaky valve covers!

 

[preifsny]

My Griso 1100 started leaking both sides valve covers at 2000 miles. On disassembly, I found them to be the original thin black style. They were soaked through, and mush. I ordered a pair of the newer 'green' style. These may be all it needs to never leak again.

But let me add my 2 cents.

When I bought my '73 Norton Commando, one of the first things I learned was that it was going to leak oil. My goal was to prevent as many leaks as possible. One of the worst places was the bottom of the valve covers. I tried every kind of goop, making my own gaskets, doubling them up, everything. An old Brit mechanic gave me the best advice, which was to trim away any 'extra' gasket material from the bottom of the sealing surfaces, so no oil could pool up, just looking for a way out.

Due to the angle of the Guzzi cylinders, oil HAS to pool here. Heating, cooling, expansion, contraction. 5W. It's got to find a way out eventually.
Align the gasket to the cover as shown using the stock screws and some matching nuts. Just tight enough to hold it to the cover surface.


Using a SHARP razor, cut away the excess material along the bottom mating surface. Front and rear on each cover. Just the places that will allow the oil to drain back into the engine.
Install using the proper torque specs.


My Norton still leaks oil all over my floor, and my boots. But not from the valve covers..

 

[fotoguzzi]

Just an update from what has happened since this was originally posted.



Hot dry weather is not fun, she was way more noticeable vibration at 4000 plus RPM but putting feet on the passenger pegs & grabbing the bars down low it is less noticeable. Could this be a temp sensor out of range? NO

The weird thing is wind & makes me think I'm losing it. At speeds over 65 in windy conditions she is a vibrator, the mirrors shake and at times the helmet dances on my head and even the vision gets wonky. I'm really thinking it is areo-dynamics more than anything else. A combination of the wide bars, a small wind screen, & the mirrors and with my arms stretched out I'm a sail in the wind. I can put my feet up on the passenger pegs and grab the bars low and duck behind the small wind screen and it helps a lot.

I'm seriously thinking of throwing on a set of clip ons or drag bars just to see if it helps.

I have never had such a love-hate relationship with any bike in my life.

I would be checking wheel balance, steering head bearings and get some bar end weights. also throttle body sync.