V7 Racer - bar end weights

[Perazzimx14]

How big of a washer are you looking for, as in outside diameter? If 7/8", 1-1/8", 1-3/8" or 1-5/8"will work let me know how thick you want them. Basically I could cut a piece(s) of 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" copper tubing to the desired length to make a mold. Fill it with melted lead and then you could drill out the center to whatever size you needed for the bolt.

I have access to tubing and lead just need to know what size and how thick.

 

[GuzziMoto]

I'm not sure what size washer you are looking for.....
But if you contact them they could tell you what size they are I would think, then you could determine if they were suitable for your use. Or you could look for other sizes. I just figured if you were looking to add a heavy washer for the extra weight you might be interested in using one made from something that is heavier then lead (nearly twice as heavy as lead per a given volume) and is commonly used as ballast weight. It is also harder, won't corrode, and not toxic.
These people list tungsten washers of various dimensions.
http://www.espimetals.com/metals/fasteners.pdf
You would have to call them for prices.

 

[mitsos82]

hm...take a look at this please.

how the base of the rizoma reverse retro mirrors will fit on this :dry:

 

[mitsos82]

after some work on this i manage to do this, but i think its also wrong. WTF! I cant put it more into the grip.

 

[pokeyjoe]

The cylindrical bit you've got on there is designed to fit inside the bar and expand when you thread the bolt through the tapered bit and tighten it up. take all that off. The bolt should thread directly into the threaded insert already in the bar. Rizoma stuff just bolts right up to V7s. You don't need all those "universal fit" adapters. As with most Rizoma products, you will have lots of parts left over.

 

[sign216]

I'm not sure what size washer you are looking for.....
But if you contact them they could tell you what size they are I would think, then you could determine if they were suitable for your use. Or you could look for other sizes. I just figured if you were looking to add a heavy washer for the extra weight you might be interested in using one made from something that is heavier then lead (nearly twice as heavy as lead per a given volume) and is commonly used as ballast weight. It is also harder, won't corrode, and not toxic.
These people list tungsten washers of various dimensions.
http://www.espimetals.com/metals/fasteners.pdf
You would have to call them for prices.

Guzzimoto, nice link. You're right, tungsten is a genuine alternative. Tungsten's almost twice as dense as lead, and 2.5 times denser than steel. I'll investigate to see if that company can provide washers, sized right, in the small quantity that I need.

Perrazzimx, I like your idea of casting lead. But I don't want to ask you to do something I should learn to do myself. Let me see if the tungsten idea is viable. If not, you'll hear from me.

Here are the density of the metals;
iron 7.87 gm/cc
lead 11.3
tungsten 19.2

 

[Perazzimx14]

[.

Perrazzimx, I like your idea of casting lead. But I don't want to ask you to do something I should learn to do myself. Let me see if the tungsten idea is viable. If not, you'll hear from me.

Here are the density of the metals;
iron 7.87 gm/cc
lead 11.3
tungsten 19.2[/quote]

Remember you didn't ask me to do anything, I offered. It really is simple and will take all of about 15 minutes of my day to make.

If it make you feel better, buy me a beer if we ever meet.

 

[sign216]

[.

Perrazzimx, I like your idea of casting lead. But I don't want to ask you to do something I should learn to do myself. Let me see if the tungsten idea is viable. If not, you'll hear from me.

Here are the density of the metals;
iron 7.87 gm/cc
lead 11.3
tungsten 19.2

Remember you didn't ask me to do anything, I offered. It really is simple and will take all of about 15 minutes of my day to make.

If it make you feel better, buy me a beer if we ever meet.[/quote]


Thanks. You'll get the standard Guzzi tender; beer and Agip.

 

[WHY]

The cylindrical bit you've got on there is designed to fit inside the bar and expand when you thread the bolt through the tapered bit and tighten it up. take all that off. The bolt should thread directly into the threaded insert already in the bar. Rizoma stuff just bolts right up to V7s. You don't need all those "universal fit" adapters. As with most Rizoma products, you will have lots of parts left over.

yeah, Rizoma bar end bolt right up to the V7, I didnt use any of the screw/bolt that comes with it, use the orginal screw and it fit the Rizoma bar end

 

[sign216]

How big of a washer are you looking for, as in outside diameter? If 7/8", 1-1/8", 1-3/8" or 1-5/8"will work let me know how thick you want them. Basically I could cut a piece(s) of 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" copper tubing to the desired length to make a mold. Fill it with melted lead and then you could drill out the center to whatever size you needed for the bolt.

I have access to tubing and lead just need to know what size and how thick.

Perazzimx, is your offer still good?

Washers of tungsten or lead aren't offered in the right sizes. If you could cast two slugs of lead I'd appreciate it. The OEM bar ends are 1.25" in diameter, and weigh 153 gms. If you could use 1 1/4 (1.25") copper pipe, that will give me the right diameter. A slug 0.75" high will match the OEM bar end weight.

When added to the OEM bar ends, the slugs would double the total bar end weight, with little change in overall appearance.

Joe

 

[Penderic]

Hello, hope you all got some nice things under the tree this year.

Re bar weights: I have put on a couple of different bar ends on my Classic - one set of vibration reducing bar ends required drilling out the soft metal plug that you normally screw the original into. It used a rubber expansion plug and another weight suspended inside the handlebars. Lost the left one last year. I think I can make a copy from the right side unit

This year I am putting on heated grips and I have to make a 1/2" extension to the right bar end - to compensate for the longer right hand grip. (I didn't want to touch the control positions) I'll make one up on a small hobby lathe and use a longer socket head bolt and a threaded expanding plug to attach it - common for bar end replacements.

Re Vibes: There are a few places on the bike that can act like tuning forks - taking energy and converting it into vibrations. If you have a set of crash bars, you may want to check them, if you can safely, on the road at different rpm. My right engine guard vibrates like crazy. (the left one doesnt). Cant see it vibrating, but It hurts to hold on tight to the right hand crash bar, it vibrates so much, and its right at the same rpm where the handlebars vibrate the most.

I tried a soft rubber bushing on the right side engine crash bar mounts to see if the vibrations in the bars would change - didn't. And the crash bar flopped around and looked useless -so I put that back to the way it is mounted normally. Maybe lead inside the crash bar? Tune up first.

I have the tuning software now to balance and reset the throttle bodies so I am hoping that the vibes can be lessened with a proper tuneup, although it is not bad enough to worry about now.

It is a wonderful bike to ride ... love my V7 Classic!

 

[Eric Plante]

Yep, I've done a careful TB synch.

If no one here can provide a source of lead washers, then I'll get some steel ones.

Although the extra density and corrosion resistance of lead are better.

Since it is so easy to melt lead, why don't you just mold your own lead weights to your specifications?
Only my 2 cents...

 

[sign216]

Yep, I've done a careful TB synch.

If no one here can provide a source of lead washers, then I'll get some steel ones.

Although the extra density and corrosion resistance of lead are better.

Since it is so easy to melt lead, why don't you just mold your own lead weights to your specifications?
Only my 2 cents...

Perrazimx14 was going to do it, since melting/molding lead is no biggie for him.

I could learn the details of safely melting the lead, setting up a mold, release, etc. But as a one-time operation I'd rather lean on my learned brothers.

 

[sign216]

[.

Perrazzimx, I like your idea of casting lead. But I don't want to ask you to do something I should learn to do myself. Let me see if the tungsten idea is viable. If not, you'll hear from me.

Here are the density of the metals;
iron 7.87 gm/cc
lead 11.3
tungsten 19.2

Remember you didn't ask me to do anything, I offered. It really is simple and will take all of about 15 minutes of my day to make.

If it make you feel better, buy me a beer if we ever meet.[/quote]


Perazzimx,

Tungsten washers aren't available in sizes anywhere close. Is your offer to cast some lead weights still open?

Joe

 

[pokeyjoe]

You guys ever try Barsnake?

Bar Snake Model LV-4 is liquid. Pour it in and it sets up in 4 hours. I was thinking it might work on bars with threaded inserts (if you can pour past the insert).

 

[sign216]

Good thought, but....

No room to pour anything, the ends are solid, other than the threaded hole.

 

[pokeyjoe]

Good thought, but....

No room to pour anything, the ends are solid, other than the threaded hole.

Silly me. The Racer has clip-ons and you can just pop the cap on the inside end of the bars (before the downward turn) and put a regular snake in there. May have to do that.

 

[sign216]

Just rub it in.....

 

[pokeyjoe]

I just checked. Those caps don't want to come off and they appear to be metal. I guess if one were to remove the forks to get to the back side of the clamps, you could pour the liquid barsnake in from that end. I just had my forks off a couple weeks ago. I don't feel like doing it again, although you might be able to do it without removing everything. Hmmm.

That's assuming there is actually a hole where the tubing attaches to the bracket. And there may not be one. Sounds like bar end weights are probably the best solution.

 

[Perazzimx14]

[.

Perrazzimx, I like your idea of casting lead. But I don't want to ask you to do something I should learn to do myself. Let me see if the tungsten idea is viable. If not, you'll hear from me.

Here are the density of the metals;
iron 7.87 gm/cc
lead 11.3
tungsten 19.2

Remember you didn't ask me to do anything, I offered. It really is simple and will take all of about 15 minutes of my day to make.

If it make you feel better, buy me a beer if we ever meet.

Perazzimx,

Tungsten washers aren't available in sizes anywhere close. Is your offer to cast some lead weights still open?

Joe[/quote]

Joe,

Offer is still valid. Check your PM's