Griso 8V SE Break In Method

[8VSE O-Ren Ishii]

Hey all,

Not having that much experience with motorcycle engine break-ins, I wonder if anyone might be willing to take a minute or three and give me some feedback on what they think about the information & recommendations for that process on this page. I do not have access to a dyno for the break-in, nor will I be on a track so much of the info can be overlooked. I have about 550 kilometers on the bike so far so I figure I am still in the early to mid stage of the process? It all sounds pretty logical to me but I really do not know enough about modern engines to have a good opinion on this.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I was also interested in the use of non-synthetic oil since that is what the bike came loaded with and the initial oil change after about 20 miles which is obviously long past but...

Cheers,
Ed

 

[Ad B]

...
I was also interested in the use of non-synthetic oil since that is what the bike came loaded with and the initial oil change after about 20 miles which is obviously long past but...

Cheers,
Ed

Hi Ed,
I think (not know...) the best way to ride your bike at this young miles is in a way as different as possible.
Let the bike work quite good, not to much, but also not to lazy.
Not to many revs, I think till max 4500/5000 rpm the firts few hundret mls. After that till max 6000/6500 1000mls.
After that build up towards your 8000 revs.
Watch out for the police, they will want your driverslicense if you do 8000 rpm at every road... :mrgreen:

More important, use the best oil there is on the market!!
Your valve train is heavy loaded and needs very good lubrication.
If there is a "weak" point in our 8V engines, it's the valve train...
My opinion, the best full synthetic oil according with the factory specifications.
But let our very good specialists we have here (Pete...) write about that.

Have fun.
Ad B

 

[john zibell]

Ad B is correct. You do want to get high compression pressure early on to force out the rings, but you don't get high pressure at high RPM. In the RPM range Ad B recommends do some throttle openings to increase load on the engine. Vary the RPM and load on each ride. Since you have the 8 valve, fully synthetic 10W60 is the way to go, even from new. Because of using synthetic, it is more critical to get the rings to seat early with good compression/load forces.

 

[vivo]

To help seat the rings, accelerate moderately and decelerate moderately. Try not to run consistantly at one RPM, load and unload the rings. Don't change out the break in oil too early either. If the factory say 900 or 600 miles before the first service follow their recommendations but don't make your self crazy if you change the oil a bit late or early. At first change use the oil recommended by the manufacturer.
Don't drone along at 60 mph all day, you want to accelerate and decelerate, don't drop two gears and dump the clutch. That would over rev the engine. Try and stay under 5500 or 6000 rpms, whatever was recommended in your owner's book.

That's how I break my engine in. I've heard some guys do what MotoMan suggests. It's important to load and unload the rings. Do that and the engine will run well.

Vivo

 

[uzidzit]

Hey all,

Not having that much experience with motorcycle engine break-ins, I wonder if anyone might be willing to take a minute or three and give me some feedback on what they think about the information & recommendations for that process on this page. I do not have access to a dyno for the break-in, nor will I be on a track so much of the info can be overlooked. I have about 550 kilometers on the bike so far so I figure I am still in the early to mid stage of the process? It all sounds pretty logical to me but I really do not know enough about modern engines to have a good opinion on this.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I was also interested in the use of non-synthetic oil since that is what the bike came loaded with and the initial oil change after about 20 miles which is obviously long past but...

Cheers,
Ed

Just go ride on twisty roads in the mtns. and allow the revs to get to 6500-7k this is the perfect loading for breakin, PS there is no non synthetic oil in this grade I have ever seen, if your bike has conventional oil in it now, THAT is NOT what it was supposed to have in it. One thing on oil and grease, I work in the medical ind. and our products require very specific lubricants. Not so much the brand but we spend a LOT of time making sure the grade is correct as is the base stock and the stabilizers etc. It took me a year to get a replacement for the old andock C grease, through testing and approved for use. (the replacement is rheolube 347c by the way). Just change all the lubes at the recommended (remember there are 3 to change)

 

[8VSE O-Ren Ishii]

Ad B, John Z.,Vivo and Uzidzit - thank you all for taking some time and responding! Your information has helped.

Uzidzit - the bike did come with the manufacturer recommended full synth. oil (my bad - poor choice of words )and I assume a good setup by a known very reliable dealer up here so I guess no worries for now. (all 3 lubes to be changed at 1st service - got it)

Happy riding all !!

Ed

 

[jojo]

I usually use olive oil in my bikes... ;-)

 

[ferdi]

I usually use olive oil in my bikes... ;-)

I hope the good and expensive one :mrgreen:

 

[Mi_ka]

This has been discussed here : https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/169/7856.html B)

 

[jojo]

I usually use olive oil in my bikes... ;-)

I hope the good and expensive one :mrgreen:

Of course! Only the best for my scoot. ;-)

 

[cytocycle]

i have used that Mototune break in link method on probably 7 bikes, and he build my buddies monster motor. This is the best way to break them in without a dyno or a race track.

 

[8VSE O-Ren Ishii]

A bit delayed on my part but I do appreciate your response Cyctocycle.

Btw - the white version Griso is awsome - enjoy!