• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Changing toe pegs on brake and gear lever Griso

kiwijohn

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
40
Location
Christchurch, New Zealand
Hello all,

This is a simple question regarding changing the toe pegs after installing lowered pegs.

I have some of the Knight design one's coming.

It looks like there is a grub? screw with an allen head that needs to be loosened . Does that come out all the way?
Then it looks like a circlip that needs taking off. It looked like there were no holes in the circlip for pliers. What is the best way to remove those without deforming them?

Thanks for any help.
 
YES THE ALLAN SCREW COMES OUT ALL THE WAY AND THE CLIP COMES OFF VERY EASY WITH A SMALL SCREW DRIVER. MAKE SURE YOU LOCKTITE THE PEG TO THE DROP BRACKET.
 
kiwijohn, what size did you get? I plan on ordering a pair, but can't decide whether to get the 2 inch or 2.5 inch.
 
Hmm. Does the length refer to the peg only or the total length including drop bar?
 
I got a pair of the two inch pegs. I feel that only need to be slightly longer than stock so 2 inch should be fine. The main issue is the brake lever feeling a little high with the lower foot pegs.
 
I got a pair of the 2 inch toe pegs. I also replaced my 1 inch lowered foot pegs with 2 inch lowered pegs. The combination works really well. I'm 6' 2" and found the extra leg room over the 1" lower pegs far better. I'm not worried about scraping - my boy racer days are far behind me. The lowered toe pegs look a bit odd, but foot position is far more comfortable.

kd_pegs.jpg
 
I've been thinking of getting the 1.5" ones with the rubber top.

Any side stand or any other fitment issues to worry about?
 
Hey just a thought here, if ya want a 2" lower peg (that is a lot of lost cornering clerence) I just used a 1" lowered vario peg, and added 1" to the seat height with the corbin viola 2" more room and not much lost cornering clearence. actually none ( I am running 15mm tall in the rear with a longer shock perch).

the stock shifter is ok with this 1 " low vario rotated down( the lever is a bit long when on your toes)

but I really do need a lowered rear brake lever.....what am i sayin...only use the rear on the gravel pull offs :woohoo:
 
Back
Top