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1100 Sport

Ray1150

Ray1150

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Famiglia
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
275
Location
London
I have nearly talked myself into buying an 1100 sport.
I am ambivalent as to a carb or injection model as I want it to keep long term and ride on sunny days as a classic. I'm not looking to win any races.
Corsa's seem to be a lot more money although for a long term buy this becomes less of an issue. Good value? The only serious problem I can see is with the non helical cut gear cluster especially 5th, but that can be rebuilt before it goes bang.
I would be interested to hear thoughts of currant/past owners as to what they think what I should look for and their experiences.
Thanks in advance
Ray
 
Ray, I've never owned one, but I've ridden quite a few. From a collector/rider perspective, the 4V Daytona RS is the one. If you want a 2V 1100, the only real issue from memory is that the F.I.'s versions ECU (1.6M) can be a little temperamental, and they have some running issues that frustrate most. Fueling fixes via EPROM and PCIIII, along with a real cam chain tensioner will get rid of 95% of those. None of the carb versions have this issue that I know of. I've never heard of any transmission issues with any of them. Best of luck in the hunt.
 
I think most of the five speeds boxes did not have an issue, just some of the straight cut ones.
My Daytona had one of the "bad" boxes, but I had a guy re-build it with the guts from a Bassa and upgrade the bearings with proper all metal ones while he was at it. So far so good.
While I do agree that the Daytona RS is the coolest, any of the spine frames are seriously cool. They have a raw feel that the CARC bikes lack.
There are differences, plus and minuses, of the various version. My favorites are the 4 valvers. But the wife's 2 valve V11 is also a great bike, and the older 2 valve Sports are nice as well. Can't say I wouldn't want any of them, I own the ones I own but could easily own any of the others, even the Centauro.
I think it is a great idea. But then I am biased.
 
Well here she is, went up to Anglesey to buy her, nice 260 mile ride home.
This is at the first petrol stop near Shrewsbury.
Lurking in the garage,
a RED suzuki SV1000N
a RED 2009 Stelvio
I can see a theme here........... :lol:
Nearly new tyres, original exhaust and x over box, air box etc etc the only mods I've found are the pot protectors, there is a K&N sticker but I haven't had a look yet, can you see anything dear reader?

There's a slight clutch slip in 3rd and 4th when you drop and boot it, may be related to a slight smell of g.box oil after a ride, maybe a leaking seal, could just be worn clutch plates but I'll have a look when winter comes, it's just fine at normal speeds and it doesn't slip in 5th at all.
 
Sweet bike, even in red.
One potential issue with the clutch I believe is the crank case breather is back between the back of the motor and the front of the gearbox. If the hose dry rots or comes undone then oil mists out and can make its way onto the clutch.
 
Might be the clutch pushrod seal is around the wrong way from the factory.

When we pulled the box from my late 1995 Sport, there was no evidence it had been out since the bike was manufactured, there was a bit of oil on the clutch plate and the clutch Hub, coming from the pushrod seal that had been installed incorrectly from the factory. I think in the mid 1990s Moto Guzzi was on its knees and the factory QA was down, even by Moto Guzzi standards!!! :lol:

Not sure if you can change this seal with the box on the bike?

Jason
 
Yeah pushrod seals can be changed with the box in place, you just pull it out. May have to remove the swinging arm to get to it though.

From 2nd hand info the 3 dog selectors play merry hell with the cogs and Dr Roper informs us that normally its 5th that goes. However there is plenty warning as it starts to whine. I think the stock fix is put in an older (5?) dog selector and gear. If you were in there I'd do the nylon caged bearing change too but maybe that's just me.

I have an 1100 sport that (crosses fingers) should be getting stripped this year. I like them as they are not that far short of the 4 valves in terms of power but have none of the cam gear and oil pump issues that the 4v reputedly are prone to.

The bad mapping issues can be gotten rid of with a Cliff Jeffery's "My ECU" which is fully adjustable, mine came with one, don't know how much I'll play with it though.

Nice bike have fun

John
 
Spent Sunday cleaning the bike and checking everything over carefully.
Still happy, the only faults I found were the oil leak was coming from the timing inspection hole from a very tired rubber grommet hidden by the oil pipe. Also the new rear disc recently fitted has a carrier a bit thinner than the original so the shoulders on the bolts were allowing it to move side to side, easily solved with some 8mm washers.

The only matter I wasn't entirely happy about was that I found the two grease nipples at the engine side of the drive shaft but nothing down at the bevel end, where should the third one be? Has something been updated and it's now redundant?
Also should I use a lithium / moly /waterproof grease?
Thx
Ray
 
Ray,

If you have oil at the timing hole, it is from a source at the back of the engine. Possibly rear main seal or cam plug. If there isn't allot, it can wait for when you go in for something else. There should be a grease fitting on the cross next to the bevel drive. If there isn't, a cross without the fitting was installed. I would use a good waterproof or synthetic grease on the crosses and driveshaft, not moly.
 
Thanks John, I checked all the oil levels, all ok, it smells like gear box oil coming out.
I want to have a look at the clutch when the snow comes so it can wait till then.
 
If gear box oil it will contaminate the clutch plates. Be prepared to replace them. Sometimes it is the transmission input seal that leaks, other times the seals on the clutch pushrod. Since you are going to be removing the gearbox, it would be a good time to replace the input and output bearings with steel caged units instead of the plastic ones.
 
Ray

I agree with JZ my rule is not to use Moly on any type of bearing with rotating components, like taper, roller or ball.

What can happen is the Moly has too low a friction coefficient and the parts that are meant to rotate, slide instead. This then leads to flats being formed on the balls and the cages they run in, leading to premature failure. Can't remember where I read that, but it makes sense to me.

John
 
OK so it looks like I'm in for new clutch plates, (& seals while I'm there).
Looking at the prices on-line Stein Dinse is selling the deep spline kit (pretty sure it's original clutch) for €139 (£120) and Gutsibits are selling it for £152 both prices include sales tax but not carriage.
Looks like I'll be buying all my spares in Germany.
Any recommendations for parts shops (European), I know I shouldn't say it :S but I've not needed anything but service parts for the Stelvio.
 
Depends what you're looking for

Stein Dinse are probably your best bet most of the time, I get nearly everything from there. Be aware that they sell replacement pattern stuff as well as genuine Guzzi. They don't try to hide it you'll see the part number marked with the Guzzi part number and another prefix to indicate its not the genuine Guzzi component. Just be aware for instance I was updating a bunch of stuff on my LM 1000 and bought a layshaft gearbox endcase bearing that was a pattern part. It was nylon caged, given that I was trying to eliminate nylon caged bearings I wasn't too happy. That said it was about 10% of the price of the all metal special that Guzzi supply and it probably would have worked fine. I have bought a lot of their other pattern stuff and its been fine.

Motomecca in UK carry a lot of Guzzi stuff, normally simply factory spares and there is always Agostinis in Mandello.

I avoid the US if I possibly can simply because of HM customs and these robbin' b*****ds Parcel Force who want summit like £12 admin charge for processing a customs fee. Roll on the free market agreement between EU and US (but I won't be holding my breath for it to happen)

John
 
Ray,

Once you have the bearings out you will find they are a standard bearing. Just go to a bearing supply house and get the steel cage unit. Then there is no change of getting plastic cage units. I believe the bearing number is 3205 and you want the steel cage open bearing, no seals. This is the bearing I use when replacing the input and output bearings on the 5 speed transmission. https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/c ... a&mp=3205B
 
Many thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.
In case it helps anyone I have been using this lot in the UK for quite a while now for bearings, reasonably priced with cheap and reliable delivery.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/#
 
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