• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2005 Breva 750 Clutch cable

G

GuzziRuse

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
6
Location
Bay Area, Ca
I'm hoping someone can give me advice. My clutch cable is about out of adjustment thread. Do I need a new cable? I can't tighten this any more before it pops out. Maybe I don't know what I am doing, which would not surprise me. Obviously there are not many clutch cables for a 2005 breva 750 out there. Can I use a clutch cable from a v7 cafe or classic, or other v7? From what I can tell they are very similar and use a lot of the same parts and very similar in many respects. Advice is welcome. Thanks.
 
'm hoping someone can give me advice. My clutch cable is about out of adjustment thread. Do I need a new cable? I can't tighten this any more before it pops out. Maybe I don't know what I am doing, which would not surprise me. Obviously there are not many clutch cables for a 2005 breva 750 out there. Can I use a clutch cable from a v7 cafe or classic, or other v7? From what I can tell they are very similar and use a lot of the same parts and very similar in many respects. Advice is welcome. Thanks.
 
Pull back the rubber shroud that hides the threaded adjusting-ring. While looking at the adjusting ring from the lever side:

IF the lever is too close to the handlebar when the clutch engages, THEN turn the adjusting ring nut anti-clockwise which moves the cable housing (cover) away from the lever. This will increase the distance from the handlebar when the clutch engages.

IF the lever is too far from the handlebar when the clutch engages, THEN turn the adjusting ring nut clockwise which moves the cable housing closer to the lever. This will decrease the distance from the handlebar when the clutch engages.

If you actually do need a new clutch cable, then MG Cycle has this one specific to the Breva 750:

clutch cable Breva 750 [Part Number: 32093010]
$58.11 + S&H

http://tinyurl.com/k3uatgs
 
There's another adjustment, down at the transmission. It's on the lever that the cable connects to, when it actuates the clutch. It can be a pain to reach, as it's sort of under the bike, hidden by things, but you should adjust there, instead of getting a new cable.

Joe
 
Yeah, that's what I've been doing. But I am about at the max point to adjust lever out. I have the 4mm of adjustment, but If I got out any further, the adjustment threads will come out of the lever. I did see the mgcycle one.
 
I did look around transmission for the second adjustment, and had heard rumors that one existed, but had not found yet. I will continue the search. I thought it odd to have an adjustment location at the lever only, but....
 
how much slack do yo leave in the lever. in other words how much movement is there before the cable touches the lever to move the clutch.
if the clutch is ok then yes renew the cable only.
if the clutch is wearing then soon you might need a new clutch.
difficult to tell which one unless you can add a video or more comments.
regards Vinnychoff
 
vinnychoff said:
how much slack do yo leave in the lever. in other words how much movement is there before the cable touches the lever to move the clutch.
if the clutch is ok then yes renew the cable only.
if the clutch is wearing then soon you might need a new clutch.
difficult to tell which one unless you can add a video or more comments.
regards Vinnychoff
Click to expand...

As the clutch wears, the cable will get tighter. You want about 3 to 4 mm of play as measured at the lever. It sounds like the original poster is experiencing some serious cable stretching.
 
GuzziRuse said:
Yeah, that's what I've been doing. But I am about at the max point to adjust lever out. I have the 4mm of adjustment, but If I got out any further, the adjustment threads will come out of the lever. I did see the mgcycle one.
Click to expand...

No, no, there is a misunderstanding. There are Two levers, each with their own adjustment mechanism. One is up at the handlebar. The other is down at the clutch housing, by the transmission. The clutch cable pulls on this lever to pull the clutch in/out.

Look at a parts diagram, for the page titled Clutch II. The lever is there.
 
I have 4mm of play at the lever at this point. It sounds like there is a second adjustment location at the clutch actuator at back of transmission. I'll look to adjust there to see if it really is the cable stretching or just out of adjustment. There are only 9000 miles on the clock, so I have to believe the clutch is okay and the cable couldn't have stretched that much.
 
Thanks, sign216 for pointing to the Diagram of the Clutch II. I found that part before, took off the Nut (#3), but then was not quite sure what to do from there. Now that I know that this is the adjustment screw (#2), I have a better idea of what to do to adjust clutch. I'll keep you updated.
 
Re: 2013 V7 Racer Intake and Exhaust Mods

I really wonder if you got an OEM cable on that bike? Had it since new?
I've had my Breva since 03, 60000 miles and haven't even adjusted the clutch yet. Still have the engaging point spot on. I don't do much urban driving, though. Good cables doesn't stretch, so it might be an idea to aquire a new - original spare - cable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top