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Oil change tips?

R

rhip

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
23
Location
New Ulm, MN
My 2013 Stelvio only has 3200 miles on it, and my dealer did the initial oil change for me. Checking the level today I found the oil midway between the dipstick marks, which I believe Pete says is normal (sounds like my '77 RS - no matter how often I topped it up, it always went down to midway on the dipstick,and stayed there). But when I went to try adding a bit, i noticed the plastic nut that apparently must be unscrewed to get any sort of realistically sized orifice in which to pour the syrupy 10W60.
If so, then that means that to check the level after adding some oil, I have to screw in the plastic, check the dipstick, and if more is needed, redo this entire process? That is a crappy design - if there is another way of dong it, or a replacement setup that eliminates the two steps, please let me know.
I have been changing oil on my bikes for 40 years, and is it really necessary to remove the crash bars to get the bash plate off for the filter change? Guzzi final gets a real external spin-on filter, but we need to go through all of that to get it off?
I did try to search this site for any more detailed information on how to do an oil change, but the reply to each search told me that the word "oil" was being deleted - what's with that? If anyone has set out the process, I'd sure appreciate seeing it. Thanks!
 
I had the same exercise last week and agree, it's a pain. I'm planning on cutting a circular hole in my sump protector to speed things up. I did however notice oil/water contamination in the tappet covers and needed wiping out and washing with de greasing fluid. (Typical condensation issues with winter setting in)
 

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rhip said:
If anyone has set out the process, I'd sure appreciate seeing it.
Click to expand...

Haven't seen one. It just a PTA, disassemble tons of stuff. You have 3 other options:

1. Cut out the stock sump cover.
2. Replace the stock cover with a Stucchi bash plate - which has a hole for the filter.
3. Remove the stock sump cover permanently, Doesn't matter if you don't ride on dirt roads frequently.
 
To answer the OP's original question....

Assuming you have a 2013 NTX, The crashbars do not have to come off. There are four bolts that hold on the bash plate. Takes all of 30 seconds to get it off. Not a big issue.

As for the cap that needs to be taken off, yes it does add a little extra time, but not a lot. Put 3 litres in the bike and then start and run for 30 seconds to fill the oil filter (assuming you took out the filter). You will need to put the plastic insert back in and dip stick. Let rest of a couple of minutes and then check the level and note the location on the stick and how much more you need to fill on the stick. Take the dip stick plug out and check the level again and note the new location on the stick. Add more oil to make up the need difference in the level (ie. if the measurement with the plug was 1/4"more, add 1/4" more). Put the plug back in and recheck the level.

The whole process take me about 15 minutes not including drain time.

As a note, the valvle cover in Farway picture is not the same as yours. There is no sparkplug tube in the middle of the cover on the 2012+ models.
 
you could get a cap from a griso, they screw in and are 1 piece. then when removed to read the big hole is wide open :mrgreen:
 
I just found a funnel that works or you can make one up using a short piece of hose and some clamps with funnel you may have downsizing to tip that fits. I have also removed the front half of the cover that makes things easier too. I completely removed the cover and brackets from the right side. I prefer to see the engine not some crappy piece of plastic. Saved about 3-5 lbs of weight too.
 

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pete roper said:
How often does your bike get ridden 20 miles or more under load?

Pete
Click to expand...
Bike does a daily 60 mile round trip to work and back. Starts and Idles for 15-30 sec every morning to ensure oil gets everywhere. Flat roads, 5 set's of traffic lights, everage speeds of 65 to 85mph. Ride the bike HARD possibly once every 4th day or so. Average RPM's 4.5-6.5k between gear changes. I use Agip's ENI Ride 10-60oil and was shocked how sensitive it was to moisture. I need to look to if the Motul brand possibly works better but it is inevitable that condensation will form inside the tappet covers especially with our cooler weather setting in. I did "flush" the engine with a litre or so of clean oil to ensure all gunk was removed from sump and tbh, there was a fair bit of "creamy" oil draining out... Might start wrapping the guzzi in a quilt in the evenings :whistle:
 
Local auto accessories may have a large plastic syringe that may or may not have a tube extension. I use this method to fill the gearbox and diff with very little to nil leaks.
Cheers from sunny Australia. Blue
 
1minute 38 seconds! :lol: :lol:

Now I am not sure but I may leave it off... Purely cosmetic for me anyway.

All the best!

Jay on Southcoast
 
jknight611 said:
1minute 38 seconds! :lol: :lol:

Now I am not sure but I may leave it off... Purely cosmetic for me anyway.

All the best!

Jay on Southcoast
Click to expand...


Time is directly proportional to the number of beer consumed before and during the operation...

Individual results vary based on the beer brand.....especially if it is Canadian Beer........ ;)
 
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