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Gearbox clunk

R

roddi

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
3
Location
brisbane
My 2008 8V has a very bad clunk going into gear then on and of acceleration it is quite scary, not annoying just scary, It has 24000 k on the clock, I don't know where to start driveshaft, gearbox, clutch? I can fix it myself but a point in the right direction would be appreciated
 
Well thank god it's only scary and not bothersome. ;)

Might sound like a weird direction to take this in, but a lot of the low-speed clunkiness in my G11 went away when I installed the O2 Optimizer (that Todd makes) that came with my PC-5. It smoothed out the fueling at lower RPMs and so the ECU isn't hunting around for the ideal fuel mix causing surging. At least that's how I understand it. Mr. Roper and many others know this stuff better. Anyway, it worked wonders to eliminate the 20-30 mph clunkiness/jerkiness in the driveline of my bike.

Can't help you on the shift clunkyness. As was said, they clunk. Aand as my buddy who switched from Kawasakis to a Harley XR1200 told me after trying my bike, "You think your transmission's clunky, you should try my bike."
 
I read on the Dutch Guzzi Forum MGCN that some guys replaced the rubber bushing in the push/pull rod that connects the bevel drive to the frame, with a later&stiffer part. Supposedly a cheap fix that in their experience fixed the on/off throttle feel at low speeds as well. Maybe worth a try?
JR
 
Here the item I mentioned in the previous post.

Guzzi part nr 883045
 

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After reading the post again on the Dutch site: they replaced the front bushing(frame side) on Breva's and Norge's with the bushing of the Stelvio. The 1200Sport seems to have that version too.
 
Thanks to everyone, I couldn't get the rubber front mount but replaced it with std, also put a 25mm o'ring either side to stop anything touching metal to metal, presto only clicks instead of clunks, I'm in love again
 
Can't imagine how the old bush absorbed much shock, replaced it with the new style and now Bella's slick changes have been restored.
 
I'm going to replace this on my 05 Breva this winter when I do the swing arm bearings and suspension linkage.

Just to be clear, is it just the frame mounting end of the tie rod or both frame and carc ends that need replacing?

Is getting the old one(s) out easy enough? The tie rod has a split in it so trying to push it out might crush the ends.

Thanks
Iain
 
Hi. I suggest getting the parts first and with suitable sise sockets , use the vice and just press them out.
They should not be hugely tight and are the same on both ends.
I have not done any other guz link bushes yet but have done others similar(BMW). You wont distort the arm.
Cheers
 
iainw said:
Is getting the old one(s) out easy enough? The tie rod has a split in it so trying to push it out might crush the ends.Iain
Click to expand...

I watched as the mechanic used a press, he wasn't happy that the rod halves wanted to flex/crush. He found some flat steel of the appropriate thickness and wedged them in the slot, either side of the bush. Thus the eyes of the two rod halves remained in alignment.
 
ghezzi said:
iainw said:
Is getting the old one(s) out easy enough? The tie rod has a split in it so trying to push it out might crush the ends.Iain
Click to expand...

I watched as the mechanic used a press, he wasn't happy that the rod halves wanted to flex/crush. He found some flat steel of the appropriate thickness and wedged them in the slot, either side of the bush. Thus the eyes of the two rod halves remained in alignment.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll get one on order and have a go during the winter.
 
Done it, it's not difficult even with basic tools.

Packed the gap in the bar. I pushed the middle bit out first, then a bit of heat and using the silent block pushed the old tube out and the new part in.

Iain
 
When new they don't cause a clunk at all, they prevent it.
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn ............................. I wish!

Just another consumable of the modern era
 
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