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2013 Stelvio - NTX Driving Lights

S

sharkyron

Just got it firing!
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 3, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Rancho Cordova, CA
So my driving lights shorted out, started with my left side and then the fuse went also. Took it back to the dealer since it was still under the factory 2 year warranty.

The service manager is going to be ordering new lights, he stated that the new ones were improved. Has anyone heard anything about improved driving lights.
 
Only thing Ihave seen is they changed the bracket since they will eventually break. That will be the next thing that goes on your lights. From what I have seen and heard, the lights are idendical and nothing has changed. All you can do is make sure the wires are coiled back in the rubber boot and install an in line fuse for each light. May by you some time. Or you can do what the majority of people have done....change them for something better or relocate them to a different spot on the bike.

Get them to fix them under warrenty and they sell them on Ebay. They are good lights but the vibrations will eventually kill just about anything you put down there.
 
canuck1969 said:
...good lights but the vibrations will eventually kill just about anything you put down there.
Click to expand...
Absolutely true. You can keep the warranty replacements, but mount them anywhere else other then the crashbar that is hard mounted to the engine block.
 
I like my cheap Ebay LED lights.

They are brighter then hell, and so far have been very rugged.
 

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sharkyron said:
Do those lights use the same switch that is on the right grip? Did you connect to the same wires?
Click to expand...

I just wired them into the factory driving light harness.
But I modified it later to add a dimmer. They are too bright to leave one during the day, so I designed a dimmer for them so I can run them during the day.
 
Hi Wayne, I installed a set of the Amazon 27wt LED < 50 bucks delivered. Figured if a little is better.... You know how that goes. I put a spot on the LH and a flood on the RH. With the spot I can see oncoming drivers ducking! How did you wire the dimmer, did you just wire it in series?

Thanks
Jay
 
jknight611 said:
Hi Wayne, I installed a set of the Amazon 27wt LED < 50 bucks delivered. Figured if a little is better.... You know how that goes. I put a spot on the LH and a flood on the RH. With the spot I can see oncoming drivers ducking! How did you wire the dimmer, did you just wire it in series?

Thanks
Jay
Click to expand...

Yes, basically in series with the relay output.

I have those and a set of HID bulbs. I ride home from work after midnight, with the deer and drunks. If a drunk refuses to dim his lights, I turn on the high beam HIDs, and those 27 watt LEDs. That REALLY wakes them up. :lol:
 
I've Vision X Lighting / Vision X Solo Pod Mini
5 watt LED, Lumens: 500 on my Quota possibly become in recent Stelvio.
promises to cars around you sees you.
maybe not as much light in the darkness, but around you ok.

Available with different scattering and one can assemble multiple lights if you want
10 ° degree beam - Xil-MX110
40 ° degree beam - Xil-MX140
60 ° degree beam - Xil-MX160

geguzzi
 

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I just had one replaced under warranty on my 2012 when the shop said the light had turned to dust inside the housing and it seems to be the same as before. the wire has failed again in just three weeks. the shop was telling me today that I've racked up 13 warranty repairs so far.

carl
 
So I got the replacements done about 2 weeks ago, they don't look like they were improved at all. They even used my old mounting brackets as I had a scratch on one side.

Only thing was the wire covering looked more like rubber than fabric. I made sure we got the wires in the rubber cap.

Got to love when you asked the dealer mechanics what is updated on them, they don't really know. All they know is it was a different part number. I do get that dealers have to work on more bikes than just the guzzi's.
 
I'll keep stating this, stock or other (even LED), will continue to fail if mounted on the factory crash bars. The rigid mount of the bar to the engine makes for severe vibration (grab it and rev the motor, you'll see), even if you rubber mount the driving lights. I highly recommend removing them and mount them either on the fork lower or somewhere on the fairing. There are several posts here with some great solutions, and I've even offered to make a bracket, with very little interest.
 
I will echo what Todd just said. Eventually it will bite you in the butt. Inline fuses are a good idea but just a safeguard to prevent the generator from going out. The original problem still exists. I had $300 Denali LED lights that I have dragged beside my KLR for 50 miles bouncing along the way because of a loose mount and survive, last only 500miles before they were turned to dust on the bars of my Stelvio. I have since relocated to under the headlight housing and no issues to date.

Sounds like they just changed out the high temp fabric covering for silicon rubber. Eventually this will wear through also. Only reliable solution to this problem is relocation.......just my opinion based on my experience.

As an aside, these only seems to be an issue with the 2012 and later with the crashbar mounts. My buddy has a 2010 and has mounted the hellas (my warrentied replacments) on the factory light bars (not an engine guard) and no issues. Attibute this to less mounting points on the engine.
 
I can't agree with you two more. Just thought I would let you know what they call upgraded.

I will be looking for replacements and/or relocate the existing ones.
 
canuck1969 said:
I will echo what Todd just said. Eventually it will bite you in the butt. Inline fuses are a good idea but just a safeguard to prevent the generator from going out. The original problem still exists. I had $300 Denali LED lights that I have dragged beside my KLR for 50 miles bouncing along the way because of a loose mount and survive, last only 500miles before they were turned to dust on the bars of my Stelvio. I have since relocated to under the headlight housing and no issues to date.

Sounds like they just changed out the high temp fabric covering for silicon rubber. Eventually this will wear through also. Only reliable solution to this problem is relocation.......just my opinion based on my experience.

As an aside, these only seems to be an issue with the 2012 and later with the crashbar mounts. My buddy has a 2010 and has mounted the hellas (my warrentied replacments) on the factory light bars (not an engine guard) and no issues. Attibute this to less mounting points on the engine.
Click to expand...

If anyone is interested in the alternate mount (first generation Stelvio) the p/n is 983161, I paid $ 300 (likely less from MPH cycle?) but got the lights for free (Thanks Canuck1969!) Be warned that the factory brackets may need modification to work thanks to poor quality control or Luigi not designing the mount correctly.

One other suggestion is that you place some Roxyl insulation between the wires and the back of the light inside the boot to keep the wires from melting - I have about 15 K on this arrangement and no issues with the lights failing or melted wires.
 
Are there photos on the forum of brackets for a fairing mount spotlight conversion?
Alan NZ
 
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