Service Thread - 2013+ V7

[lomax]

This forum seems to be into the newer stuff and has a LOT of knowledge, So I am going to document and ask questions about my 600 mile service on my 2013 V7 Racer here.

Day 1: About 1 hour.

Tonight I removed the seat and fuel tank. The tank has one electrical plug up towards the left front by the frame, two vent lines, one at the upper right front of the tank and one at the rear right. These just unplugged with no issues. The fuel line is still a mystery to me. I lightly pushed and pulled and it just came off. I think this is supposed to be a quick disconnect but it seemed to come apart too easily.

Plug:

Front vent hose:

Rear vent hose:

Fuel line:

1st question: Someone enlighten me about the fuel line QD so I put it back on correctly.

Remove the vent hose on top of each rocker cover, Pull the spark plug wire covers off, Pull the spark plug caps off, and remove the spark plugs.

Remove the alternator cover so that I can turn the engine over. Sorry I have to work on the floor and have no center stand to be able to rotate the rear wheel.

I found top dead center on both cylinders using the by feel method and also the straw in the spark plug hole method. I could not see any marks on the flywheel so I made some for each cylinder. The valve lash before torquing the heads was as follows : LI .004 go .005 nogo LE .007 go .008 nogo RI .004 go .005 nogo RE .007 go .008 nogo

2nd question: Check my specs. Intake valves to be set at .006in Exhaust at .008in
4 Head nuts on rocker arms set to 42Nm, 4 Allan bolts on each side of spark plug holes set to 25Nm, 2 Single nut on top of head set to 28Nm.

Per this from the 2013 Maintenance manual:

Rockers off:

I have been advised by my tried and trusted Guzzi mechanic that when re-torquing the head loosen ONE nut at a time and re-torque it. He said DO NOT loosen them all and then torque. I know there is a lot of contention about this but that is the way we did it in aircraft and it makes sense to me as you don't want to break any gasket seals. Well anyway that is how I am going to do it.



Marc

 

[pyoungbl]

Sounds like you are doing just fine. My QD was a slightly more difficult but that's probably a function of fat fingers and poor technique. It's a simple push-on connection to put it back together. Everything else sounds like just what I did on my V7S. I'm using .006" (intake) and .008" (exhaust) for clearances. The book says .15mm and .20mm which are essentially what I am using.

Peter Y.

 

[lomax]

Day 2: about another hours.

I finished up the 600 mile service today by changing the engine oil and filter, transmission oil, final drive oil, checking the steering head bearings and checking all the fasteners on the bike. Took it out for a test spin and believe or not it still runs, and runs well. :lol:

When putting the tank back on I just pushed the fuel QD together and it seemed to latch OK. It does not leak. This does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling however but it seems to work.

BTW: when I had the tank off I did a better job of tying the clutch cable back away from the right cylinder. The cover they have over the cable had melted quite a bit and the cable routing on these bikes sucks big time. I even noticed where the cable housing was partially crushed up by the steering head. This and the shift linkage falling apart last week will be reported to the dealer so it is on the bikes record. Yes I do the maintenance but the dealer is also notified for any future warranty issues.

I do have another question. Answered below.

This may have been there all along but I now notice that when I first turn the key on and the clocks are doing their sweep, The speedometer says NA Init, (well it actually looks like an upside down UA Init) then goes right over to the total mileage. Bike runs great and everything is as it should be but I never noticed this before.

Any Idea what this means ??

I did disconnect the battery to wire in a GPS and of course unplugged the fuel tank electrical when I removed it, but did not mess with anything else electrical. I may put mu Guzzidiag on it and see if it says anything.

Having spend a little over two hours on this service, let's say three, with it being my first one on this bike, and probably being way to anal about it, I feel much better than paying the dealer about $266 per hour. That is what it would have come to for their asking price for the service and the slow time it took me to do it. I need a job that will pay me that. :evil:

Marc

 

[Penis Rotor]

What you think is NA is supposed to be MA. Its the service indicator. You turn it off by playing with the buttons on the dash. Can't remember the exact procedure? Hold them down and then turn on the ignition? Hold them down with the ignition on and then turn it off? Just try a number of different combinations, it'll turn off eventually.

Pete

 

[lomax]

Hey thanks Pete. Yep looking at the owners manual it actually is supposed to say MAint (In some weird Italian way :lol: ) Of course the manual also says see your dealer to turn it off. :shock: I love things that give you all the information.

I will go out and push buttons like a mad man and see what works. :mrgreen:

"with the ignition OFF;
push left button (trip/odo) and keep pushed;
switch ON ignition;
wait 'till the dials do their dance and the lights go out again
release button
switch ignition back OFF"

It works.

Marc

 

[fireflyr]

Just went over 4000 miles and was wondering what that code was. Great write up and info. Thanks.

Pat

 

[kwn306]

I picked up a 2013 White V7 Stone for my wife on this past Saturday.

I was a little miffed that the dealer didn't go through the bike with my wife so she knew all the operational controls, but it is what it is and I guess we will figure it out................like how to remove the seat is the 1st item, we ordered and received a gel seat to replace the stock unit.

My questions about the service is.........................

According to the service manual you adjust the valves, change the oil in the motor, trans and rear, inspect a few / bunch items and tighten all the fasteners.

I have read on the Wild Guzzi forum and I believe on this forum as well about loosing and re-tightening the head bolts. All the illustrations though were on older V7's, not on the 2013 model. Does this need to be accomplished on the 2013 V7's.

I do not want to start a oil thread but......................the dealer has Mobil 1 15W-50 in the crank case, Guzzi calls for 10W-60. Where can I purchase Agip or other oils buy the case? Also, speaking of oil, according to the parts break down there are two oil filters in the sump, is it necessary to clean / change the one filter that you have to remove the pan to access?

Thank you for your time in advance for intelligent answers

 

[GTM®]

Kurt, first congrats on the new V7. Love to get the info for the V7 Registry; http://store.guzzitech.com/forum/topic?f=215&t=9108

Yes, I recommend loosening and re-torquing the heads, as I've seen a few 2013 V7's with head/oil leaks that weren't done on the first service.

You can get AGIP online at AGIP USA; http://www.eni.com/en_NA/home.html -- OR there are several other options including Redline 10w-60, which can be had online as well.

 

[kwn306]

Kurt, first congrats on the new V7. Love to get the info for the V7 Registry; http://store.guzzitech.com/forum/topic?f=215&t=9108

Yes, I recommend loosening and re-torquing the heads, as I've seen a few 2013 V7's with head/oil leaks that weren't done on the first service.

You can get AGIP online at AGIP USA; http://www.eni.com/en_NA/home.html -- OR there are several other options including Redline 10w-60, which can be had online as well.

Does this need to be done at each service or just at the 600 mile service?

Do I loosen all the head bolts at once and re-torques in a cross pattern or do one at a time?

What is / are the proper foot pounds?

 

[GTM®]

All the info you need here; https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic?f=215&t=12032

 

[kwn306]

OK and few questions...................

1. Does the tank have to be pulled to get the valve covers off?

2. Which way should you turn the crank shaft bolt (under the alternator cover), clockwise or counter clockwise? Because you should turn an engine backwards from its natural rotation.

 

[Kev M]

I picked up a 2013 White V7 Stone for my wife on this past Saturday.

I was a little miffed that the dealer didn't go through the bike with my wife so she knew all the operational controls, but it is what it is and I guess we will figure it out................like how to remove the seat is the 1st item, we ordered and received a gel seat to replace the stock unit.

My questions about the service is.........................

According to the service manual you adjust the valves, change the oil in the motor, trans and rear, inspect a few / bunch items and tighten all the fasteners.

I have read on the Wild Guzzi forum and I believe on this forum as well about loosing and re-tightening the head bolts. All the illustrations though were on older V7's, not on the 2013 model. Does this need to be accomplished on the 2013 V7's.

I do not want to start a oil thread but......................the dealer has Mobil 1 15W-50 in the crank case, Guzzi calls for 10W-60. Where can I purchase Agip or other oils buy the case? Also, speaking of oil, according to the parts break down there are two oil filters in the sump, is it necessary to clean / change the one filter that you have to remove the pan to access?

Thank you for your time in advance for intelligent answers

I documented my experience with my V7 Stone Break-In service and some common snafus/questions on WG

/wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=60261.0

Head torque just the one time, it's identical to the older models. I believe Pete Roper said there's been a bulletin SPECIFICALLY reminding dealers about it on these since it is no longer necessary on the big blocks.

I order AGIP by the case and don't worry about it for a couple of years at a time (did that on my last big block too).

You only have to service the oil filter in the trap door (heck I'm not sure I even noticed any other when I had the sump off to install my sump spacer).

Remember to check the routing of your clutch cable (keep it off the jug if possible) and watch those clips on the breather hoses and the hoses themselves, as one of mine was rubbing on the paint under the tank.

It's all pretty easy.

 

[Kev M]

OK and few questions...................

1. Does the tank have to be pulled to get the valve covers off?

2. Which way should you turn the crank shaft bolt (under the alternator cover), clockwise or counter clockwise? Because you should turn an engine backwards from its natural rotation.

1. No

2. No - I've always been taught that in most cases you should turn an engine THE NORMAL direction of rotation. Or at least I can't think of a good reason to turn it the other way, though you actually can on these if you need to. Regardless, I've used the crankshaft fastener on the front of my Guzzis (big blocks and small blocks) to turn CLOCKWISE while checking valves for about a decade. That's certainly how I'd recommend you do it.

 

[sign216]

KWN,

I wrote a tutorial on doing torquing the head bolts: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157627672086548/
Double click on each picture to get the comments below each photo. My Flickr account has other repair guides too. They are listed in the Sets portion of my Flickr account.

Joe

 

[pyoungbl]

Kurt, congrats on the new V7. Redline Motorsports had 10W60 by the case when I was there not long ago. I bought a case so I'm set for a long, long, time. Remember, the sump only holds 1.75 L of oil. If the bike has 15W50 it must not be the factory fill.

On a not-related note; I took a chance and ordered the V7 Racer solo seat for my V7 Special. Harpers had them for about $105 but could not guarantee that it would fit. I got the seat today and it does fit, also looks damn good! My OEM seat is in California for a total makeover but if this solo seat fits my ass it will be a great addition for short trips. I'll use the re-make for longer trips. If winter ever ends here in Tidewater I'll let you know how the ass-to-seat interface is working.

Peter Y.

 

[Robert Racer]

Am about to get first service done. However, I've had the V7 Racer in to dealer three times now for a starting problem not resolved. Help!

When I start it, the tach jumps to 4000 and the immediately shuts off. First, they flashed ECU, then something was done with the TPS, now we are investigating on the third go round. Sometimes after the ECU is flashed, it runs for a week fine, then after leaving it in garage overnight, next day, same scenario as above.

Any one experienced this or have an idea? Thanks Robert Racer

 

[GTM®]

I've heard about this one other time. They need to replace the entire throttle body assembly along with the ECU. Pretty sure that solved it, but don't hold me to it.

 

[Johnny Deep]

Can somebody tell me how much 85w/140 the final drive takes?

Thanks, getting ready to do my 600 mile service.

John

 

[francod123]

I retorqued one at a time, i.e. leaving the others fully tight while loosening then retightening one at a time, in a crisscross pattern.

 

[john zibell]

Can somebody tell me how much 85w/140 the final drive takes?

Thanks, getting ready to do my 600 mile service.

John

Look in the V7 manual in the resource section. https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/resources/v7c-service-manual-09-12.68/ There is a section on capacities.