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Is 7 years too long?

commando tod

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
138
Location
Essex
My original battery has lasted 7 years and is still going strong. But to be on the safe side, I`ve opted to buy a replacement.It`s always been connected to a trickle charger when not in use and has never let me down. But, and it`s a big BUT! How much longer could i have expected it to perform before letting me down when I need it most? And you always need it most, like when a shoelace snaps, just when you`re about to go out. :evil: :evil:
Whats the longest anyone here has kept an original battery? It`s not like these things wear out with mileage like tyres and bearings.
 
There's probably no definitive answer to your question, some batteries seem to last a long time and others don't, an optimate or other device certainly helps to prolong life. I'm up to 8 years on my Griso's and about 10 on my Buell. If it's niggling you then I would say replace it .
 
I've been posting this (as applies at least here in the States)... older batteries have higher allowable lead content, which means they last longer then anything newer of Lead-Acid/AGM versions. 10 years is a good running average for batteries that old or older. I'm moving over to the Lithium technology, and have found (and I personally use) a VERY solid US owned/built version here; http://guzzitech.com/store/product/415- ... pathway-11

I'd highly recommend a load test on your current battery before it strands you.

I am also offering AGMs which have a much shorter lifespan because of the notes above; http://guzzitech.com/store/category/11-electronics
 
Load testing is great, but only covers normal plate degradation. What you can't test for is sudden death syndrome. (and yes, even AGM batteries have the condition, just much less so)

This happens when lead particulates which have floated/broken off as part of the normal aging process pile up at the bottom of the battery, and eventually ground one of the plates by making contact with both the anode and cathode at the same time, shorting it and draining your battery internally. When it happens, a battery will go from being perfectly good to completely dead overnight, or even within hours depending on the amount of contact. This condition is undetectable until it happens because those particulates may be mere microinches from the plates at the time of load testing, but they aren't touching so the battery tests fine.

I personally would replace it to be on the safe side, but that being said you CAN bump start these bikes just so long as there's enough juice left to prime the fuel pump and boot the computer.

We have already spent good money on large, heavy and (relatively) slow bikes that get crappy mileage. Why pinch pennies? :side:
 
Got 6 years out of the original in a G11. When the voltage drops below a certain point (12v ?) I don't know. The ecu won't engage the starter, so push and jump it is!
 
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