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Starter Amps on Stelvio

canuck1969

GT Reference
GT Contributor
Joined
May 31, 2012
Messages
1,242
Location
Burlington, Ontario
Does anyone know what the starter draw is on the 2012 Stelvio. Trying to track down a problem with a slow starter and need to know how may amps the starter should be drawing. I have checked all the obvious stuff like battery and grounds so that is not the issue. This is a new issue, not something that has been happening since new.
 
Not sure what it should draw. This was not uncommon on the older Valeo, but it is rarer on the newer ones. A couple bolts and the starter is out. Any automotive electrical shop should be able to check it out for you. If it needs parts, many are available from these guys http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/ The starter motor is common with many BMW motorcycles, just the mounting head is different.
 
Thanks John.....It is still unde warranty so if it needs a new one won't be coming out of my pocket. Like I said previously, still starting no problem, just slower than usual. The dealer already did the cleaning of it under the TSB once, and it worked great for a bit, now slowing down a bit. I can have it tested at work but wanted to get an idea of how many amps it should be drawing.
 
Way ahead of you. Removed and cleaned all connections (+ve and -ve) at the battery and the starter. All connection are tight. Only thing I didn't check is the resistance after the battery terminals, just in case the terminal is loose. Will try it tonight to see what is happening, but not looking like a ground or power issue.
 
canuck1969 said:
Way ahead of you. Removed and cleaned all connections (+ve and -ve) at the battery and the starter. All connection are tight. Only thing I didn't check is the resistance after the battery terminals, just in case the terminal is loose. Will try it tonight to see what is happening, but not looking like a ground or power issue.

Just because they are tight doesn't mean there isn't oxidation. The main ground by the starter is notorious for this. Actually remove clean and re-install.
 
john zibell said:
canuck1969 said:
Way ahead of you. Removed and cleaned all connections (+ve and -ve) at the battery and the starter. All connection are tight. Only thing I didn't check is the resistance after the battery terminals, just in case the terminal is loose. Will try it tonight to see what is happening, but not looking like a ground or power issue.

Just because they are tight doesn't mean there isn't oxidation. The main ground by the starter is notorious for this. Actually remove clean and re-install.

Already did all of that. All connections looked brand new but took some sand paper to them anyways to make sure. Ohm readings from battery negative to grounds (both at the starter) is 0.1 to 0.15 ohms and voltage drop across the cables (+ve and -ve) is less than 0.3V when starting. Used a good quality Fluke meter so that is not the issue either. Not a cable or battery issue as battery is new and did the same for the last battery and the third one I tried (Brand new Anti gravity 16 cell). Could just me a matter of the starter needing some TLC. Waiting to hear back from the dealer on what they plan to do about it. Bike has no starting issues, just slower than usual.
 
A starter solenoid should pull around 7-15 amps as inrush current (when you first hit the starter). The starter itself will pull several hundred amps while cranking.

Because of this your battery needs to be spot on - is it older than a year (the battery)? IF so it may be in poorer nich than expected. Lead Acid batteries (assuming you have one of these) start serious deterioration after about 6 months, to the point where they fail completely.

Another thing maybe the earth to the ECU - just putting it out there...
 
canuck1969 said:
john zibell said:
canuck1969 said:
Already did all of that. All connections looked brand new but took some sand paper to them anyways to make sure. Ohm readings from battery negative to grounds (both at the starter) is 0.1 to 0.15 ohms and voltage drop across the cables (+ve and -ve) is less than 0.3V when starting. Used a good quality Fluke meter so that is not the issue either. Not a cable or battery issue as battery is new and did the same for the last battery and the third one I tried (Brand new Anti gravity 16 cell). Could just me a matter of the starter needing some TLC. Waiting to hear back from the dealer on what they plan to do about it. Bike has no starting issues, just slower than usual.


So voltage drop from the battery negative to the block is under 0.5V, and voltage drop from the battery positive to the solenoid is also under 0.5V?

What is the voltage across the battery when cranking? I don't trust the lithium battery. Have you tried jumpering in another battery when cranking to see if that helps?

I never checked my Stelvio, but a few years ago I did measure my EV. While cranking, it was in the 80-90 amp range. It has a geared starter like the Stelvio. I would expect the Stelvio to be less than 150 amps and close to 100. These geared starters aren't as brutal in the amperage needed as the older direct drive ones.

Side note, sandpaper on electrical contacts embeds silicates and such in the metal. Emory cloth is better.
 
Yes, the voltage both ways is less than 0.5v

Actually lied a little. Used a small file to clean the terminals so should be good there. Actually did not have the lithium in the bike for reasons we don't need to get into. Took that out a couple of weeks ago and put it the vstrom. Works much better. Have a brand new Motobatt in the bike now to replace the yuasa. Voltage is strong right off the start. During cranking drops to about 10 or so. Can do that a few times with no issues. All works just a slower than usual turning. Will deal with the dealer to see what is needed. Sounds like the starter may just need a cleaning.

Electrician at work has a load tester so will check the battery and the cranking amps on the starter and go from there.
 
This probably won't solve OP's problem but I'll offer it up for all. Every motorcycle I have owned since...way back when...has had marginal electrical connections between the battery and engine block, also from generator/alternator and battery. The wires are usually just barely large enough to make the system work. It's really inexpensive to upgrade the connection between battery and frame (-) and battery to charging element (+). If you improve the negative circuit you improve the entire electrical system. One source for ready made wires is Motolectric http://www.motolectric.com/products/hicap.detail.html


I have seen an improvement on Ducati, BMW, Moto Guzzi, and Triumph motorcycles; no guarantee but this sure worked for me.

Peter Y.
 
I used some "lighter" welding cable on mine - works a treat too.
 
Thanks guys...may go that route if everything else checks out.

The last time the dealer clean it after it was having some issues with engaging. They cleaned it as per the TSB (or so i was told). When I got it back it spun like there was no tomorrow. Actually scared the crap out of me the first time I started it since it spun so fast. It has slowed down in the last while as compared to after it was cleaned. May go down that avenue and pull it apart, clean and re grease the gears. I don;t think it is a problem with the starter per say. The voltage drops are within norms. I will get the amp draw checked next week but I am pretty sure it will be fine. May just need a good cleaning and lube again.
 
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