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Oil change

R

rhip

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
23
Location
New Ulm, MN
I'm due for my first. I've tried to search the forum, but what size is he stupid nut that holds the dipstick? When I put it back on, I hope it doesn't need to be tightened too hard - if I want to add oil, I shouldn't need a socket, extender and ratchet to do so. Will a strap wrench work to remove the oil filter? Thanks!
 
If you're going to check your valve clearance, refill the bike with oil while you have one of the valve covers off. If not, I simply roll a piece of paper into a funnel and stick it into the dip stick hole rather than remove the plastic nut.

No, the oil filter is recessed. You will need the proper size socket to fit the filter housing.
 
For the filter use either the UFI 14 flute filter or the Bosch 3330. If you decide to use the Bosch 3330, the oil filter wrench that BMW motorcycle dealers sell for the 1100 and 1150 bikes is a perfect fit. Bosch makes the filter for BMW. Also you can use the BMW filter, it is the 3330 with a different paint job for BMW. I prefer to use grease on the oil seal, and torque the filter to 15 Nm, and no tighter than that or it will be difficult to remove.
 
On the Stelvio there is a plastic sleeve to mate the threaded opening on the block to the dip stick. It's pretty easy to use a small crescent wrench to take this sleeve out of the block so you can get a real funnel in there and add oil. I made a 'wrench' out of 1/4" aluminum stock for the odd occasion I might want to add oil while on a trip. The plastic sleeve need not be torqued down much more than finger tight.
 
Thanks to all of you for replying. I have about 35 metric wrenches and sockets, but none fit this nylon nut. Without going the crescent wrench route, doe anyone know the size of the nut in MM so I can get the appropriate socket?
 
25mm. Strongly recommend you grind the business end of your socket flat since that nylon nut has fairly narrow flats.
 
Just did my third oil/filter service last night. Sorry about the bad pic. Oil filter # is HF551. Hold the socket square with the block and use a short extension. Go easy on tightening plastic insert. I use an inch pound torque wrench for all plugs and filter. The filter wrench is from AutoZone. Spec for the HiFlow filter is printed on it.
 
Thanks again, guys - but I did notice that one of you is using a 25 MM socket, and the other in the photo is a 26 MM.
 
One of the more intelligent posters mentioned forgoing messing with the nut. He's a smart guy, you should heed his advise.
 
rhip said:
Thanks again, guys - but I did notice that one of you is using a 25 MM socket, and the other in the photo is a 26 MM.
Click to expand...

You are not talking a lot of torque. It has a rubber o-ring on it so does not need to be very tight. Both will work. I use a 1" deep socket and it has enough grab to take it on an off with no issues. If you want to try and fill it without removing the plug then go for it. The first time you spill it all over the bike or you find it is taking you forever to get it in you may give that decision a second thought.

Don't over think this. If you could get to it with your hands that would work. Think of it as a normal filler cap on a wet clutch. You don't use a wrench to tighten that....... No difference....just has a hole in it for a dipstick
 
During the oil change should you un-do the hose from the oil cooler to drain oil from there as well. Or does that just drain back down into the sump?
 
Stevie said:
If you're going to check your valve clearance, refill the bike with oil while you have one of the valve covers off. If not, I simply roll a piece of paper into a funnel and stick it into the dip stick hole rather than remove the plastic nut.

No, the oil filter is recessed. You will need the proper size socket to fit the filter housing.
Click to expand...

You need to change oil on a warm engine, and check valves on a cold engine-see workshop manual. From what a Guzzi mechanic told me, cold means not having run for several hours. Just did my 1,000 mile service and did the valves in the morning before any engine starting.
 
I pull the drain plug and filter on the warm engine then let it sit at least overnight and do the valves the next day or so. I have drained the oil on cold engines this easy also. At most a little film will stay inside. The big advantages I see with a warm engine is quicker drain and any heavier solids will still be suspended in the oil. If it is changed often there should not be much of that depending on your riding conditions.
 
jar3ds said:
During the oil change should you un-do the hose from the oil cooler to drain oil from there as well. Or does that just drain back down into the sump?
Click to expand...
NO!!! don't break this joint unless you have to you will be buying an oil cooler sooner or later probably sooner....it will drain sufficiently do it warm ditto for tranny, and final

the cooler is a decent one but they are a bit delicate at the joints... the hoses are best not flexed and bent for no reason either that is when the leaks start at the banjo fittings
 
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