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2006 Norge doesn't work at idle

kanjotti

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Belgrade, Serbia
Hi everyone,
I have Norge 1200 from 2006, and I will try to describe the problem, diagnostic parameters and what I've done.

The bike doesn't work at idle smoothly, it works only the left cylinder, the right one haves spark every fifth to tenth cycle , only at hi RPM let's say 3500rmp it works properly.
The TEXA diagnostic tool says
1. Battery voltage
2."CAN line "Mute Knot" U1601 Mute node"
3. Speed sensor

I checked:
1. Battery voltage... solved 12.7v recharged
2. Wiring checking for short circuit's (OK)
3. Coils, left and right (OK)
4. E.C.U. connectors
5. Dashboard connector

I deleted all errors but the problem remains. I have checked the sparks using strobe lamp, and after 3500rpm starts to work.
Does anyone has a similar problem or some clue?

Thank's in advance

Milos
 
Oh,
I forgot one explanation from TEXA:

"Possible error on CAN line: detected short-circuit or line cut-out or signal missing or consistency error"

Anybody has the idea how to check that CAN line?
 
I'm not familiar with TEXA, and I've never heard of a Mute Knot/Node, perhaps someone reading this will. The coils may be functioning OK on a test with the diagnostic tool, but I would check to see if the signal to the coils are functioning below 3500.
Also, the battery sounds low on voltage. What is the battery showing @3500RPM with a voltmeter on the terminals? This won't resolve your problem, but it will let us know if you might be suffering an over or under charge scenario.
Though I've never heard of it to date, it certainly might be the ECU, which there would be no problem trying a different ECU as long as the battery and charging voltage is OK. The dashboard shouldn't be an issue if the bike starts, as it's only communication with the ECU is the disable feature from the RFID in the key. Let us know.
 
Hi there,

I've checked the voltage at 4000rpm, it is 13.8v, but now I notice that there is miss-fire even at 4k rpm.
CAN line is ok, finally i found readable el.scheme and everything is OK. I tried another coils but the result was the same.
I have another dash (from other bike) but, I am afraid of coding the dash. Anyway I doubt that the dashB. is a problem.
Main suspect at the moment is E.C.U. :|

BTW, thanks for answering
 
jim130 said:
Do you know for sure that the HT leads and plug caps are good.
One I forgot! Do check the wires and caps. The could would be good if the bike is running, but the wires may not be fully seated in the coil if that area has been tinkered on.
 
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